help please

[devinsdad]

I have bought a Kuma wood classic stove. When I asked about floor protection the certified "guy" told me to 2x4 frame the hearth and put one piece of durock ontop of plywood then just tile over it leaving about an inch by the back wall open for venting. Upon looking through the owners manual I found I need an R-value of .595. So I am concerned that the stove guy wants my house to burn down. I plan on putting 3 layers of durock solid to the wall with no vent. Wouldn't this be the safe way to go? Now for the real brain buster. I was sold Simpson duratech 6" chimney at the same store. I find myself with a square ceiling support box which is 24" tall. a roof support bracket that fastens to roof deck , 2 48" pipes , chimney cap, and extended roof brackets to hold chimney 5' above roof (high wind protection?), and a roof flashing that is flat on the upper roof side and tapers to about an inch or so at the lower side. He said to notch the raised lower portion to accomodate the ribs in my metal roofing. ok sounds good. The top of flashing (where it cones up to pipe) has no vent slots like the install instructions show. Upon closer inspection The tag on flashing says for ICC EXCEL pipe type HT.?! The store guy says he uses it on installs all the time with metal roofing. Should I go ahead and use it? maybe cut my own vent slots under storm collar? also since I have a roof support bracket I am using the square box support for an insulation shield above my ceiling Does this sound ok? How do I close off the top of the support box (it is not going to extend up onto roof deck like instructions show) so rodents don't pack it with insulation in the warm season? The stove guy had told me if I built a chase from ceiling up to under roof I would have to cut some vents in it for air flow? I am really confused. Thanks for any help figuring out this mess. Dave NOTE- Tried calling tech support for duravent.mssge says they are in the field training. 2 emails unreturned also. glad they appreciate $900+

 

[DAKSY]

I have bought a Kuma wood classic stove. When I asked about floor protection the certified "guy" told me to 2x4 frame the hearth and put one piece of durock ontop of plywood then just tile over it leaving about an inch by the back wall open for venting. Upon looking through the owners manual I found I need an R-value of .595. So I am concerned that the stove guy wants my house to burn down. I plan on putting 3 layers of durock solid to the wall with no vent. Wouldn't this be the safe way to go? Now for the real brain buster. I was sold Simpson duratech 6" chimney at the same store. I find myself with a square ceiling support box which is 24" tall. a roof support bracket that fastens to roof deck , 2 48" pipes , chimney cap, and extended roof brackets to hold chimney 5' above roof (high wind protection?), and a roof flashing that is flat on the upper roof side and tapers to about an inch or so at the lower side. He said to notch the raised lower portion to accomodate the ribs in my metal roofing. ok sounds good. The top of flashing (where it cones up to pipe) has no vent slots like the install instructions show. Upon closer inspection The tag on flashing says for ICC EXCEL pipe type HT.?! The store guy says he uses it on installs all the time with metal roofing. Should I go ahead and use it? maybe cut my own vent slots under storm collar? also since I have a roof support bracket I am using the square box support for an insulation shield above my ceiling Does this sound ok? How do I close off the top of the support box (it is not going to extend up onto roof deck like instructions show) so rodents don't pack it with insulation in the warm season? The stove guy had told me if I built a chase from ceiling up to under roof I would have to cut some vents in it for air flow? I am really confused. Thanks for any help figuring out this mess. Dave NOTE- Tried calling tech support for duravent.mssge says they are in the field training. 2 emails unreturned also. glad they appreciate $900+

Three pieces of 1/2" Durarock will give you an R = .6, so that'll meet the requirement.
The Excel flashing will work on your metal roof...
I wouldn't worry about the vent slots, as they can be a source of water infiltration
during heavy rainstorms...
There are two ways to seal the upper end of the support box.
1. Get another storm collar & install it there, or
2. Get some sheet metal - aluminum will work - bend so it wraps around the corners &
cut the roof pitch angle on the upper edge on two sides.
Zip screw it to all sides of the support box & run it up to the underside of the roof deck.
HTH

 

[devinsdad]

Thank you for the input . Makes sense I will go with the storm collar. Just push it down tight to top of box? And I can install my insulation up against the sheetmetal? Thank you again

 

[DAKSY]

Thank you for the input . Makes sense I will go with the storm collar. Just push it down tight to top of box? And I can install my insulation up against the sheetmetal? Thank you again

Yes. Push the collar tightly to the support box & with a Sharpie marker, trace the box on the underside of the storm collar...
Then remove the collar & using a hand seamer or a pair of pliers, bend the collar down to seal the small gap where it
meets the square box - using the lines as a guide.
Yes. The support box has the clearance requirements built into it.

 

[devinsdad]

ok. thanks again . I'm going to get started and post some pics when all is done.

 

[daryl]

Putting three layers of dura rock on your wall will not reduce your clearances it has too have a 1" airspace open at the top and bottom.

 

[begreen]

When I asked about floor protection the certified “guy” told me to 2x4 frame the hearth and put one piece of durock ontop of plywood then just tile over it leaving about an inch by the back wall open for venting.

It seems like the "guy" was mixing up his specs, though the OP is asking about floor protection. But good point Daryl. It would also be good to check and be sure that wall clearances to combustibles are correctly honored. devinsdad, will there also be a wall shield? Or is the stove being placed the manual's required distance from any combustible surface?

 

[devinsdad]

]It seems like the "guy" was mixing up his specs, though the OP is asking about floor protection. But good point Daryl. It would also be good to check and be sure that wall clearances to combustibles are correctly honored. devinsdad, will there also be a wall shield? Or is the stove being placed the manual's required distance from any combustible surface?[/quote]

I am actually installing in an alcove? The ceiling is the same height as the kitchen ceiling with the 'cove ceiling being 5/8 sheetrock butted into 12x12 staple up ceiling tile. The side walls are also 5/8 sheetrock. I am going to double up some durock strips and put durock over them from the floor to the ceiling minus the one inch at the floor and 3 inches at the ceiling . I have some ribbed metal roofing that is copper colored that I am going to install on the back wall. There I am using some junk garage door track (1"d x 2.25"w) to get the 1" airspace plus the ribs are an inch more. The copper color looks good with the cedar on the kitchen walls . side clearance is listed at 14" and I will have 17" on both sides from stove to face of protector. and the rear clearance is 6" and I will end up with 7" to the nearest part of the metal sheet. One more question though. I installed that support box as my insulation shield but I screwed through the inside of the box into the ceiling framing ,There were no pilot holes so I was unsure if I did it wrong? Will the bronze ceramic coated screws I used transfer dangerous heat into 2x4 wood joist? Thanks again.