Help !! Vermont Casting Stove Older Model

[sorensenbrad]

I was given an older model Vermont Casting stove and I'm wanting to install it however I cannot tell what model it is as Id like to get a heat shield for the back of the stove.

This is what I can tell its a Vermont Castings stove stamped on both sides Defiant Encore,when look inside the stove its stamped 1986 with a flower or something above it. It has all the plates on the back and are mostly ledgeable except where the model number is. I can see serial number as it is stamped into the plate 1941.

I can post some pictures if necessary. Vermont Casting was apparently bought by someone and wont give out information on stoves prior to 2008. Hummmm that sounds weird.

Please help I thought it was model 1986 but maybe that is just the year it was made. Could it be a 2140?

 

[DAKSY]

My guess is that it's a Defiant Encore...

 

[sorensenbrad]

Thanks for the reply, I kinda figured that much too however the Firebird salesman at the stove store needs a model number as there are several/many different models associated with Vermont Castings Defiant Encore... for example "Vermont Castings Defiant Encore 2140".

 

[DAKSY]

Go here:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/defiant-encore/

Maybe you'll find something to help narrow your options...

 

[sorensenbrad]

Think I got it with your help.... I noticed on your link ( https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/defiant-encore/ ) this line near the bottom of the page "MODEL #0028 MANUFACTURED 7/11/86 THRU 4/25/90 WITH A GEISSER TESTING LAB. LABEL" now at looking at my faded plate photo I can see the geisser & associeates as well as I can barely make out what looks like the something date 1986. Is is safe to say what I have is a model 28?

 

[homebrewz]

Perhaps you could look at the heat shield requirements over the various models. They might be the same. Most of the heat from that stove will from the front and the top. Be sure to inspect the condition of the secondary combustion package before putting it into service.. refractory, catalyst, secondary air inlet and temperature probe. Be careful with the refractory package.. they are expensive and fragile.

 

[sorensenbrad]

homebrewz, Ill have to get the manual I have no clue what your talking about :-( I'm a computer geek and don't know much about these things. I would like to learn about them as I do like to save money and do things myself.

secondary combustion package
refractory
catalyst
secondary air inlet
temperature probe

 

[homebrewz]

I've attached a copy of the manual for the #0028. Yours looks like it's in good shape on the surface, but it's hard to tell.
Post back here if you have any questions as you get into this. Lots of people here are familiar with these stoves.

Is it sitting on a furniture dolly or some type of jack? FYI: Using something like a car jack to move a cast iron stove puts all that weight on one point and has been known to crack the underside. Just wanted to let you know.

 

[sorensenbrad]

OK the dolly is wide and fits between the legs so it has two load points... do you suggest I take it off the dolly? its been sitting on it for months and I don't see any cracks underneath.

On another note I was given some glass polish to polish up the glass and paint to paint it. Also was told after painting to set it in the driveway and make a fire in it once, something about the smell first time you fire it up after painting.

Ill need to replace all seals and anything that needs to be checked, it would be nice if someone could walk me through it, remember to be specific as I'm not stove savvy at this point.

Ive also been told its not hard to do just need some guidance.

 

[homebrewz]

It sounds like the dolly is fine.

There is a curing time for paint, though I've never touched up mine. I have a sand colored model in enamel paint. Looks like yours is flat black. Yes, a small break in fire will help cure the paint. There are several discussions on here regarding this.

There are instructions for replacing the gaskets in the manual, as well as in many other threads here. The front doors are removable to make instillation easier. Be careful around the door glass if you remove any of the panels. Over tightening of the screws and metal clips may break the glass. The gasket replacement is a good DIY starter project to get you familiar with the stove. There are also instructions on removal and inspection of the catalyst.

If you are unfamiliar with cat stoves (catalyst stoves) you need to sit down and read the manual, because that is exactly what you have.

good luck!

 

[sorensenbrad]

Ive painted my stove looks pretty nice compared to previous...
I hope I did it right... Removed glass and top, taped it up to keep paint out f inside and rear aluminum plates. As instructed by the Firebird store I used a scotch brite pad to rough up surface and remove any surface rust, wiped with a clean cloth several times this whole process took 3 hours to complete.Then came the painting it took 3 cans of stove paint sold to me by Firebird stove store. All handles are functional and adjusted correctly. I have not burned it yet as I still need to replace all the seals. Ill post picture soon...

After replacing the seals what else do I need to check before firing? Something about catalyst stove... just asking

 

[Diabel]

Have you examined the catalytic combustor yet?

 

[sorensenbrad]

I have not examined the catalytic combustor, is it easy to explain to me what to do and what to look for?

From the manual I see where it is but not how to get to it.

 

[sorensenbrad]

Here are a couple of pics of the finished product, I think it came out nice. I do however have a couple of questions about painting a stove.

1. Ive been told the first firing it'll stink really bad, is this normal and is the smell toxic I have pets and a Chinese water dragon.
2. I'm paranoid that once its fired the paint will chip and peel off the stove... am I wrong is my paranoia?

 

[sorensenbrad]

Diabel this question is directed at you or anyone with the same model stove."Vermont Castings Defiant Encore Model 0028"

I want to set this unit as close to the wall as possible ( Wall is stucco ) I was told 12-16 inches with a heat shield. Is this correct?
Now I know I can install a wall mounted air gaped heat shield but I'm not sure of the size needed for my stove they come in different sizes.
Also I was told instead of using the wall mounted heat shield I could just use a heat that attaches to the back of my stove and the wall version is not needed. Is that correct?

Now when I look online to get a rear heat shield for my model stove I keep getting a rear heat shield for model 2190, also is there anything else need to mount to the back of the stove like a hardware heat shield kit or something? I assume so but just checking...

Finally the stove pipe...

The stove is in my covered patio, (ceiling has no insulation its just plywood and corrugated metal roofing on top of that) since where the pipe will come out of the roofing (which the metal is not flat) is there a flashing or kit for corrugated metal roofs? Regular flashing is flat for like shingled roofs. I don't want any leaks.

Does the pipe only needs to extend 2-3 feet above the roof (I have a flat roof) and do I need support wires? I was told no unless your pipe extends more than 6 feet.

If stove is close to the wall the pipe is close to the wall is there anything I need to do to the pipe, it gets hot too.

Going through the ceiling, I was told that I didn't need a ceiling support box as you would see the box between the rafters (remember no insulation and my ceiling is just plywood and corrugated metal) and that I could just run the pipe straight thru but the double insulated pipe would have to go thru the hole in the roof with 3 inches clearance all around the hole. Doesn't make since to me since I thought it was single wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling support box and double insulated stainless steel pipe from the box thru the ceiling and to the outside. Please advise.

 

[homebrewz]

The catalyst is accessed by the panel on the back. There are 4 screws holding it in. Be careful taking it out. The refractory access cover is just underneath the access cover, and is fragile as well as the refractory which surrounds the catalyst. you can remove the catalyst with a couple of putty knifes if you can't quite get it out. Concerning the catalyst, the honeycomb should be good shape with few or no cracks. If it's in good shape, you can brush it lightly with a dry paint brush and reinstall it. Don't blow it out with compressed air as you risk removing some of the catalyst coating.

There are several threads on this board about curing paint, you'll have to do some looking around. Though, I think the primary break-in fire should be conducted outside, if possible.

 

[sorensenbrad]

On the back of my stove is it behind the rectangle metal information plate see picture? I'm nervous taking this out can I inspect it and brush it off without taking it out? I hate to admit it but I can be a klutz, my wife calls me fumble fingers I'm always dropping something.

 

[sorensenbrad]

Before I forget I wanted to thanks everyone for their help, advise and information it is greatly appreciated.

 

[homebrewz]

Yes, the rectangular piece is the catalyst access panel. Behind that, is a rectangular piece of refractory material (fragile) which is also called the catalyst access panel. If you can read schematics, there is one at the end of the manual.

 

[sorensenbrad]

Thanks for the reply... its a brick looking thing that needs to be inspected for cracks and to lightly dust any ash off with a brush if necessary. It looks OK to me nothing obvious...

Is there anything else I need to check?

 

[homebrewz]

You could post a picture of the catalyst and a picture of where it sits, the inside of that refractory box.

 

[Diabel]

+1 what homebrewz says..!
Study the manual in terms of clearences or ask in the Hearth forum, experts will be able to help.

 

[sorensenbrad]

If the Catalyst is damaged and or needs to be replaced can I use the stove in updraft mode (damper open) just for this winter. Reason I ask it's expensive to replace and right now I don't want to drop any more money into this stove... so far Ive spent about 2k (Paint-Gaskets-contractor labor-pipe-etc)

 

[homebrewz]

Yes, but the secondary combustion is the heart and soul of that stove. You will get half of the heat with the stove in bypass.
It sounds like your catalyst might be in OK shape from what you've described.

I'm guessing much of your cost went into the pipe and installation, so if you decide to switch stoves in the future, you won't have to go through that again.

 

[sorensenbrad]

Yes most of the money was spent on the pipe and installation...

I'm worried I took the cover off and it seems like the Catalyst is missing all together, there is nothing to pull out. I look inside and see a rectangle opening with a metal bracket or something in the rear. Also looks like a couple of other issues. If you look at the picture to me it looks like #43 Catalyst block is missing. Also looks like #42 Refactory Assembly has 1 crack in it, weird as it feels like a very hard Styrofoam materiel. Finally looks like #42 Catalyst Access Panel is stuck to #62 Catalyst Access Panel.

I can post picture tonight if you'd like to see what I see... If it is missing or these things need to be replaced at least I know for this winter I can still use it in updraft mode and replace what needs to be replaced in the spring.