Help with ideal setup

[nEWRfire]

so I took down my chimney and now have a big hole . I now have the luxury of basically starting like new. Would like A critique on my plan please.

Stove is going in my living room which backs on to the kitchen. Now that I have taken down the chimney I can actually see the back of my kitchen cabinets. My ceilings are 9' high and from floor of ground floor to roof is approx 27' . I am getting closed cell spray foam insulation but old windows are staying . I am hoping for the Fire to warm entire ground floor which is approx 1300 sq ft and an open layout. I am leaning towards getting an ashford 30.

Do I need to get the fan kit?

I will build a new rear wall where chimney was, will build wall out of cement board and place stove 6" in front of it.

36" above stove I will make a 90 turn into new cement board wall and connect it to class a. Should I get double insulated the whole way up? Someone has recommended supervent to me? What brand would you recommend?

I also need to buy ceiling support, flashing kit and cap. Anything else.?

Where the class a will come out is close to a higher point (roughly 10') so I need the class a to go 12' out of ceiling. (I live in NJ) . 12' seems high do I need to build chase around it for better performance?

Anything else I need to do?

Thanks for reading

 

[Woody Stover]

With an open layout and a central stove location, you might not need a blower stove but if you get a stove with a blower option, I think I would get that blower. It will allow you to recover room temp faster, if the fire goes out before you can get back to reload. A question I have is, for a stove with a blower option, would natural convection be better if the blower weren't installed?

 

[jeff_t]

You're going up and then a 90 into class A because you're utilizing the old chase? If possible I'd consider going more than 36", and use two 45s instead of a 90.

You'll need a tee at the bottom, and some way to support the chimney. And yes, it has to be insulated double wall starting at the wall or ceiling penetration. Basically any place you can't see it.

Nothing wrong with Supervent. It has to meet the same requirements as more expensive pipe. I've used it for three chimneys, and will probably use it again. Only thing I don't like is that the longest section is 3', which kinda sucks on a long run.

As far as the fans are concerned, you can always add them later. OTOH, I believe you need the fan kit or a rear heat shield to get 6" rear clearance with the Blaze King. My(formerly) BK definitely benefits from the blowers, and I know most BK owners here will say the same.

 

[nEWRfire]

You're going up and then a 90 into class A because you're utilizing the old chase? If possible I'd consider going more than 36", and use two 45s instead of a 90.

You'll need a tee at the bottom, and some way to support the chimney. And yes, it has to be insulated double wall starting at the wall or ceiling penetration. Basically any place you can't see it.

Nothing wrong with Supervent. It has to meet the same requirements as more expensive pipe. I've used it for three chimneys, and will probably use it again. Only thing I don't like is that the longest section is 3', which kinda sucks on a long run.

As far as the fans are concerned, you can always add them later. OTOH, I believe you need the fan kit or a rear heat shield to get 6" rear clearance with the Blaze King. My(formerly) BK definitely benefits from the blowers, and I know most BK owners here will say the same.

It will be a new chase. The only reason I'm doing a 90 is because I think it looks marginally better. I can change to 2 45s. How much higher than 36 would you recommend?

what will I need the tee for? Planning on supporting the chimney by attaching to wall.

 

[nEWRfire]

BTW hearth.com sponsors if you want me to purchase through your site I am happy to ( mods hope this doesn't break a rule - is a roundabout way for me to support hearth.com)

 

[jeff_t]

what will I need the tee for? Planning on supporting the chimney by attaching to wall.

You'll need a tee at the bottom because you want to use a 90 instead of going straight up. And there are brackets that attach to the wall which the bottom part of the tee sits in for support. You'll probably want some way to access this tee for cleaning purposes, as well, since you'll have so much pipe up through the roof. Top down cleaning will be pretty difficult.

Personally, I'd go straight up if I could. It's easier to deal with, and less expensive.

 

[nEWRfire]

Personally, I'd go straight up if I could. It's easier to deal with, and less expensive.

Is there a way of going straight up without exposing the entire black stove pipe and also not enclosing the stove top much

 

[Highbeam]

I did the same thing when I removed a masonry chimney in my 1963 house. Then I framed in and sheetrocked over the old fireplace hole. No reason at all to use the stupid steel studs or cement boards. You only need to provide the minimum clearance to the combustible rear wall which is 6" on my BK.

Then go straight up. Do not reuse the old chimney hole. You do not want any bends in the system and you also do not want to encroach into that kitchen space behind the stove. What a waste of floor space that would be. So go straight up into a ceiling support box and then class A straight up to through the roof to the cap.

The only reason I can think of in your case to go horizontally through the wall is if there is some sort of obstacle above like another room.

 

[nEWRfire]

Couple of pics

 

[nEWRfire]

I stupidly don't have a pic of post chimney removal but on the second pic you can see the lath . Now that the chimney has gone I have about 18" back from where that lath was to the kitchen cabinets.

 

[nEWRfire]

I did the same thing when I removed a masonry chimney in my 1963 house. Then I framed in and sheetrocked over the old fireplace hole. No reason at all to use the stupid steel studs or cement boards. You only need to provide the minimum clearance to the combustible rear wall which is 6" on my BK.

Then go straight up. Do not reuse the old chimney hole. You do not want any bends in the system and you also do not want to encroach into that kitchen space behind the stove. What a waste of floor space that would be. So go straight up into a ceiling support box and then class A straight up to through the roof to the cap.

The only reason I can think of in your case to go horizontally through the wall is if there is some sort of obstacle above like another room.

If I reuse chimney hole I won't have any bends. Only reason I want(Ed) to put the bend in was to avoid having to have the back stove pipe exposed all the way to the ceiling.

 

[Highbeam]

If I reuse chimney hole I won't have any bends. Only reason I want(Ed) to put the bend in was to avoid having to have the back stove pipe exposed all the way to the ceiling.

I suppose it must be an aesthetic look you're after. The BK needs at least three feet of vertical rise before any bend and since the stove is nearly 3 feet tall you are basically at the ceiling anyway. Adding bends to a system that doesn't need them is a bad idea. Bends cause restriction in the flue system and make draft worse. BK stoves, and all stoves really, benefit greatly from strong drafts. Bends make cleaning the chimney harder and are more expensive.

If you really hate the look of stove pipe for some reason then you can perhaps consider some of the rear venting options from Woodstock. Those buggers can shoot their stove pipes directly back through the wall into a tee that goes vertical. You would need to access that tee for cleaning so a little door in the chase is necessary.

I like the clean, all vertical, efficient look and function of a vertical chimney. I would hate to purposely introduce a handicap to the system.

Another option is to build a drop ceiling or alcove to hide a portion of the stove pipe.

 

[nEWRfire]

Thanks. I'm all for performance over looks. Vertical it is. And I suppose I can always do dropped ceiling later on if don't like the pipe

 

[bholler]

Thanks. I'm all for performance over looks. Vertical it is. And I suppose I can always do dropped ceiling later on if don't like the pipe

Not really you would have to have chimney pipe in that drop ceiling not stove pipe. So yes you could do it later but it would be much more complicated. Really you wont even notice the pipe after a little bit. And btw it does not have to be black. Stove brite makes lots of colors of high temp paint.

 

[nEWRfire]

Not really you would have to have chimney pipe in that drop ceiling not stove pipe. So yes you could do it later but it would be much more complicated. Really you wont even notice the pipe after a little bit. And btw it does not have to be black. Stove brite makes lots of colors of high temp paint.

Thank you. Feel stupid for suggesting it now!

 

[bholler]

Thank you. Feel stupid for suggesting it now!

Not a problem we all make mistakes.

 

[Highbeam]

Thanks. I'm all for performance over looks. Vertical it is. And I suppose I can always do dropped ceiling later on if don't like the pipe

I think you could do some things without dropping the ceiling to hide the top of the pipe. Like a short curtain wall (soffit?) hanging down in front of the pipe like a curtain. Sort of an arched doorway look but it depends on the walls around it.

I agree that you will quickly forget about the pipe. Like you, I have the opportunity to apply any number of stylish stone veneers behind my stove and even a mantle at the correct height. All will distract you from the pipe.

As it is now, on my hearth. Just painted plain wall behind the stove. Kinda boring. I hope to apply slate tile to the wall with no grout lines. Slate has a cool natural look.

 

[nEWRfire]

This is where the chimney fire place was. And the new stove will go

 

[nEWRfire]

I think you could do some things without dropping the ceiling to hide the top of the pipe. Like a short curtain wall (soffit?) hanging down in front of the pipe like a curtain. Sort of an arched doorway look but it depends on the walls around it.

I agree that you will quickly forget about the pipe. Like you, I have the opportunity to apply any number of stylish stone veneers behind my stove and even a mantle at the correct height. All will distract you from the pipe.

As it is now, on my hearth. Just painted plain wall behind the stove. Kinda boring. I hope to apply slate tile to the wall with no grout lines. Slate has a cool natural look.

What type of dog is that? Very handsome.

How would one do a mantle? Would the pipe not be in the way?

 

[Highbeam]

What type of dog is that? Very handsome.

How would one do a mantle? Would the pipe not be in the way?

That's Carlos, he's a pug. Even has papers but he's fixed.

Lots of people add mantle (basically a shelf) to the wall behind the pipe. There is space since the pipe is usually far enough from the wall to allow a combustible mantle. Some mantles are made of noncombustible material so they can extend right up to the pipe. There will be room for something back there.