Help with outside chimney pipe installation

[Peter1]

I'm new to the forum and I apologize if I sound like a newbie, because I am!

My wife and I bought a Jotul 3 wood stove, which I'm going to be connecting to Duraplus 6 inch triple wall stainless steel pipes and their through the wall kit within the next two weeks. The issue I'm facing is that my roof is sticking out a little, about 7 inches. That means I have to add an extension to the tee support bracket, so the flue would be about 10 inches from the wall. I will also have to use longer wall straps (I just need two). Do any of you know where to get, or how to make a longer tee support bracket and wall straps?
I have added the picture with a little drawing, so you would have an idea what I'm talking about.
Thank you!

 

[mark cline]

Not a fan of an outside chimney, any chance it can be run straight up through the roof , to keep as much of the pipe in the warmer house envelope. It looks as though the t will be tough to get to for cleaning . I'm assuming that the tee is about 8 to 10 ft off the ground.

 

[Peter1]

Not a fan of an outside chimney, any chance it can be run straight up through the roof , to keep as much of the pipe in the warmer house envelope. It looks as though the t will be tough to get to for cleaning . I'm assuming that the tee is about 8 to 10 ft off the ground.

Unfortunately, the pipe has to go outside through the wall. We pulled out our old gas insert (which was never connected), and will run the pipe through that space. Yes, the tee would be about 8 feet off the ground, which will make it more difficult to clean the pipe, but we really don't have any other option ...

 

[begreen]

The 90 at the tee is going to affect draft. What is in the way of going straight up? How tall do you estimate the final chimney height to be from the tee to the cap? Does this meet stove requirements?

 

[bholler]

Also i would strongly recomend insulated double wall over the triple wall especially for an exterior chimney the extra insulation of the double wall will help keep those temps up

 

[Peter1]

Also i would strongly recomend insulated double wall over the triple wall especially for an exterior chimney the extra insulation of the double wall will help keep those temps up

Thank you for your recommendation. I decided to go with Supervent double wall (my local Lowes carries it) after comparing it with Duraplus triple wall pipe.

 

[Peter1]

The 90 at the tee is going to affect draft. What is in the way of going straight up? How tall do you estimate the final chimney height to be from the tee to the cap? Does this meet stove requirements?

There is too much in the way, unfortunately. My ceiling light and HVAC duct runs right above the wood stove. In addition to that there is only about a foot of space in the same area in the attic, so it's super difficult to get to. Also, the pipe would be going through the peak of a small roof above the window.
To avoid all of the above I would have to use a few elbows inside, which wouldn't look too good plus I've been told to not have many elbows. The stove can be placed only in one place and that is right in the front of the gas fireplace that we just removed, there is no other place in the room where it would look and fit well.

The distance from the tee to the cap would be 12 ft and distance from the stove to the tee would be 3 ft horizontally. The stove requires 14ft of pipes, so that wouldn't be a problem.

In an ideal world I would like to go straight up from the stove, but in my case, things are a little more complicated..

 

[mrdinks]

I have always been told a 90 subtracts 5 feet of height so you might have a draft problem. I don't think horizontal pipe counts either, as horizontal will not help in the lift if hot air. Add all that to an outside chimney and it might be tough.

 

[bholler]

The distance from the tee to the cap would be 12 ft and distance from the stove to the tee would be 3 ft horizontally. The stove requires 14ft of pipes, so that wouldn't be a problem.

It will be close you may end up having to add a little height. I personally would move the obstructions and go straight up but i think you can make it work going out the wall

 

[Peter1]

I have always been told a 90 subtracts 5 feet of height so you might have a draft problem. I don't think horizontal pipe counts either, as horizontal will not help in the lift if hot air. Add all that to an outside chimney and it might be tough.

Thank you for your input. What would be your advice in my case?

 

[Peter1]

It will be close you may end up having to add a little height. I personally would move the obstructions and go straight up but i think you can make it work going out the wall

Would 16 ft of vertical pipe be long enough? Also, if I somehow managed to go straight up, I would still have to have at least 14 ft of pipe, wouldn't I?

 

[mrdinks]

If you can't go straight up can you jog over and go almost straight up?
Height is your friend, might have to add braces. Go as high as you can, it can be done, it's no fun to have draft problems.

 

[bholler]

Would 16 ft of vertical pipe be long enough?

Mayby it is hard to say how much the 90s will affect each setup with the different variables. And yes straight up you would still need 14 feet but with out the loss from the elbows it would work much better.

 

[begreen]

14' straight up in the interior of the house is going to draft better. The pipe and flue gases will be warmer and there is no 90 turn slowing things down. It also costs less for materials and looks better for future resale if that's important. Is there an alternate location for the stove that makes this easier? If not, then go ahead and try it with 12 ft. If the stove burns poorly and spills smoke when opening the door, add a few ft to the chimney.