Help with stove surround & hearth / Summer's Heat/Madison

[jorswift]

OK. So my wife has been completely against the wood stove idea since we had the POS factory fireplace. Well, I started the demo while she was gone and now am ready to redo the walls and hearth. I felt to help her ease the pain, I would let her pick out the stone/stone veneer and hearth for the stove.

So I get a text yesterday stating she was done and had it all. I get home to see that she indeed purchased some stone veneer, but there was only one problem... it is a self adhesive type stone with some sort of tape! So now I have 10 boxes in my garage and trying to explain to her we cannot use it as it has the tape! So, she is dead set on this stuff.

Can I still use this stuff if I get the tape off? What mortar/thin-set to use?

The hearth, she wants to pour a concrete slab and dye it for the hearth. I have seen and heard of it before, but curious as to what you all used.

Attached is a link of the stone. Thanks.
https://www.moduloamerica.com/interior?lightbox=dataItem-jaixah01
She got the Modulo Oslo Desert Grey.

 

[MAD MARK]

We have to have more info to give advice.

What stove, what dimensions, where at? Pics help. Need to see clearances.

Dyed concrete for a hearth is a great idea. Easy to no maintenance and definitely fireproof. I've seen some that look very nice.

 

[jorswift]

We have to have more info to give advice.

What stove, what dimensions, where at? Pics help. Need to see clearances.

Dyed concrete for a hearth is a great idea. Easy to no maintenance and definitely fireproof. I've seen some that look very nice.

The stove is Englander Madison 2000sq ft. or Summers Heat. After reading the clearances, it is a bit confusing now. I am using all double wall pipe to Class A Chimney. The clearance section reads single wall pipe 5". Can I be closer than that? I see too that it states when installed into a "fireplace" the mantel has to be at least 36" above. Is that statement true for being in the open?

Attached is a pic. Where the wall was ripped out, it 4' on both sides. I have yet to put the drywall on or walls (waiting for materials).

 

[jorswift]

Attached are clearances.

 

[ShawnLiNY]

Clearances to combustible? I think you are going to have to move stove out from corner at least 36” and that still may soften the adhesive

 

[MAD MARK]

For sure going to want an offset in that chimney. Be it 2 45s.

 

[jorswift]

I have purchased 2-45s with double wall pipe is 6" min clearance.

After looking at the clearance specs for the stove, what is your take on clearances for it?

 

[WinterinWI]

That file you linked lists N/A for all clearances for double wall which is odd. What does the N/A mean? I can think of several ways for that to be interpreted:

N/A double wall pipe can't be used. (Seems unlikely)

N/A no clearances required. (Seems highly unlikely, but I don't know that stove)

N/A clearances are the same as single wall.

Confusing to say the least.

 

[ShawnLiNY]

Clearances from stove body is going to be a major factor

 

[jorswift]

I am guessing that the clearances don't matter if it is a single or double wall pipe. The pipe has to be 6" minimum and the stove 5.5". So I will have to bring the stove out a bit and use 2-45's to obtain the correct clearances.

The stone veneer I now have. It has the adhesive tape on the back, I know it will be strenuous, but I think I can just peel off the tape/adhesive and use a thin-set mortar to adhere the stone to cement board (if I cant convince my wife to get different stone). Any recommendation on what type to use?

 

[ShawnLiNY]

You need to find the stoves clearances to combustibles ( not just the pipe ) the 2x4s behind the cement board and the insulation are combustible . Additionally the adhesive on veneer may actually be flammable as well as the tape itself being combustible or subject to softening with constant heat

 

[jorswift]

You need to find the stoves clearances to combustibles ( not just the pipe ) the 2x4s behind the cement board and the insulation are combustible . Additionally the adhesive on veneer may actually be flammable as well as the tape itself being combustible or subject to softening with constant heat

The stove has a clearance of 5.5" from the stove corner to wall for a corner installation. I didn't think of a flash point for the adhesive. That may be the deal breaker to take it back!

 

[ShawnLiNY]

I wasn’t able to open the pdf you linked , I just looked up the Madison it said 7.5 and 19.5 from the corner to center of back . Give yourself some extra space and you’ll be ok ( I was imagining a much larger space needed ) I guess your stove has really well insulated walls and back . Can you move it out a lil further and pour your slab a lil larger ?

 

[WinterinWI]

This is what he linked.

 

[WinterinWI]

I am guessing that the clearances don't matter if it is a single or double wall pipe. The pipe has to be 6" minimum and the stove 5.5". So I will have to bring the stove out a bit and use 2-45's to obtain the correct clearances.

The stone veneer I now have. It has the adhesive tape on the back, I know it will be strenuous, but I think I can just peel off the tape/adhesive and use a thin-set mortar to adhere the stone to cement board (if I cant convince my wife to get different stone). Any recommendation on what type to use?

It might work fine, might not. Are you sure it is real stone and not some other manufactured or cast product? Taking a chance if you're installing it differently than the way the manufacturer specifies. It would really suck to do it twice... might be worth a call to the manufacturer and ask.

 

[jorswift]

Says it’s a plaster product? I think I’m going to take it back! Thanks

 

[ShawnLiNY]

The paperwork should tell you if it can be used

 

[jorswift]

The cement board my wife purchased was Permabase. It looks as if I need to take that back too and get DUROCK?

 

[WinterinWI]

I've never used permabase, but it is just another brand of cement board. It should work fine for what you are doing.

 

[jorswift]

Thanks guys.
After reading and rereading the manual...it looks as if I only need ember protection, so I'm not thinking of just laying some cement board over subfloor and skim coating a few layers of cement. I was afraid of having a heavy spot in the house, so this may work as long as I am the correct specs to the manual. 16" in front and 8" on 3 sides.