Help with Vogelzang Mountaineer Baffle

[crazycat]

We have a 20x35 ft polycarbonate greenhouse, after heating with propane the first winter ($$$) we added a wood stove, a Vogelzang boxwood stove to help heat. Two years ago, we found a used Mountaineer at a local fireplace store. The price was right, and it was a step up from the poor boxwoods (I burned through 2).
I know most people think Vogelzang stoves are terrible.
The Mountaineer (no serial number or other identification on it, but we think it's a VG650ELG or something similar)performed well the first winter, putting off more heat than our previous stoves. It had a baffle which really cut down on the stove pipe getting too hot, or sparks flying out the top of the chimney pipe, even when running hot.
This year I noticed the baffle is starting to break down, it's getting holes in the metal and falling apart pretty quickly. I think I might have found a replacement part http://vogelzang.com/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=baffle&product_id=575, but it doesn't really look like what is in our stove.
To make matters worse we can't budge the baffle that is now in the stove. Vogelzang said lift and pull towards the door (or maybe it was pull then lift) but it doesn't move at all.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I've taken some photos of the inside of the stove, but it might be kind of hard to make out what is what.

 

[Old Salter]

Hi Crazycat, I bought a new Mountaineer and the baffle on the newer ones is removable, as mine warped already and fell down diagonally into the firebox, cutting the amount of wood I could fit to almost none---(unbelievable--only used 2 months) and I've had to take it out to try to reshape it to stay up today. I believe I read the "older original" Mountaineers had the baffle welded into place (thus not removable). If you know someone who is handy with metal and a spot welder they might be able to fabricate and attach a new piece of sheet metal for you. Besides that could possibly bolt a piece to the old at each end if the edges are still solid enough to at least cover the holes. You'll know if yours is removable if you can see spot welds attached directly to the baffle rather than a "lip" at the back and a large groove length wise in the middle of the upper stove which the other "larger lip of the baffle fits into. If it is spot welded there, then it's a non-removable piece of yesteryear. Hopefully you know someone who can cut the old out and spot weld a new piece in for you (safest way)--figures as we drop into the 20's now huh? Good Luck and hope this helps a bit.
P.S. Even when brand new if I hit the baffle with a piece of wood loading the stove it would rattle, so they are not a super snug fit to begin with. If you can't even budge yours ? I'd say it's definitely an older welded in baffle.

 

[crazycat]

Hi Old Salter, a belated big thank you for your help. We limped through the winter by blocking the holes in the baffle with old pieces of dampers and other cast iron pieces we found. As far as repairs, this summer we put it off and put if off and finally the hubby was talking with his car repair guy, who turned out to be a master welder. You were right, the baffle was welded into place. I had purchased a new baffle from Vogelzang and the welder cut out the old baffle, welded in a couple of bolts to hold the new one in place, and it's been working well.
Except for the fact our damper seems to be blocking the air flow too much- stove burns fine with the door cracked a bit, but shut it and the flames are much smaller, lots of smoke inside, and wood basically chars rather than burns cleanly. We never had a problem with the damper so not sure what that's all about.