none you should not need any sealant but if there is to much of a gap you will need either some gasket rope or furnace cement. Silicone will burn off and it smells horrible when it does.I'm trying to get the right one to seal from my stove to pipe adapter.
At the big box store I used high temperature furnace cementAny recommendations?
I'm trying to get the right one to seal from my stove to pipe adapter.
Thanks
The tech at Duraent stated I needed this...If your are seeing smoke spillage from a pipe joint then it's most likely you have a clogged up chimney cap or heavy build up in the chimney. Like was mentioned, no sealant should be needed.
Can you post a pic? What stove is this on?The tech at Duraent stated I needed this...
More information needed. RTV is not appropriate for a wood stove flue collar but ok for a pellet stove. What do you have?
If it's actually a pellet stove it would depend on the install instructions that came with the stove. Harman for instance allows 4" into 6", Also in a masonry install, they allow for flex to run part way up into clay liner ( be a pain to clean I would think, course with pellet heat it's just ash). Other brands want 4" to the top and it's not to say that isn't ideal with even Harman. On my Harman P61 I ran 4" flex up 23 ft through an existing chimney and it's worked flawlessly, easy to brush out from the bottom up through a clean out T and positive draft in a power outage..Even with class A pipe, it would still need to be relined to the top with 4" wouldn't it?
Me either, nor on my coal stove we burned for 35+ years ( actually that didn't need anything). But it's what I used on my pellet install and what is recommended and inspectors expect to see. That or high heat silicone tape at the joints. The outer pipe on pellet vent doesn't see 200 deg. Pellet vent is positive pressure, the inside of the stove negative pressure except for a few really old models.I wouldn't use it on a wood stove.
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