Honda HS520 snowblower Gs160 A) revving to high

[fespo]

I have a Honda Hs 520 (Gc160A) that engine is revving to high. All carb /gov linkage moves and is not bent at all. Nothing I can see is broke so my guess it has to be internal. I removed the engine from the frame, drained the oil and gas and split the crank case open. The internal governor looks to be fine. I did not see any broke or worn gears or cracked plastic. Do the internal Governors show wear? Now the weird part! When I was splitting the case open a 1 1/2 " screw fell out from where I DON'T KNOW. It shows as if it was being ground away, the top half was 3 sided and the treads were still intact. I looked all the parts up on line and I did not see any screws about the same size or length. Help

 

[saewoody]

I have a Honda Hs 520 (Gc160A) that engine is revving to high. All carb /gov linkage moves and is not bent at all. Nothing I can see is broke so my guess it has to be internal. I removed the engine from the frame, drained the oil and gas and split the crank case open. The internal governor looks to be fine. I did not see any broke or worn gears or cracked plastic. Do the internal Governors show wear? Now the weird part! When I was splitting the case open a 1 1/2 " screw fell out from where I DON'T KNOW. It shows as if it was being ground away, the top half was 3 sided and the treads were still intact. I looked all the parts up on line and I did not see any screws about the same size or length. HelpView attachment 220737View attachment 220738View attachment 220739

I can’t help you with that particular piece your pics are showing, but if your engine was reving too high maybe it was more of a carburetor adjustment or cleaning that was needed. Could have been a simple adjustment of the idle speed screw or the high speed adjustment screw; or possibly a jet issue.

I know you mentioned the linkages looked ok, but you didn’t mention the carburetor itself. Hope you get it figured out.


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[fespo]

I can’t help you with that particular piece your pics are showing, but if your engine was reving too high maybe it was more of a carburetor adjustment or cleaning that was needed. Could have been a simple adjustment of the idle speed screw or the high speed adjustment screw; or possibly a jet issue.

I know you mentioned the linkages looked ok, but you didn’t mention the carburetor itself. Hope you get it figured out.


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I did check out the carb but not much you can do to these carbs know days

 

[jetsam]

Whatever ground down that screw is going to be ground down itself. Look for other stuff that has strange wear on it. (Also, the screw looks like it broke off at the tip maybe, so it may not have even been near its original home when it got ground down.)

 

[VirginiaIron]

The only SCALE I see is your fingers/hand v the bolt head and the bolt head v shank. I would assume it to be a head/(rod @ 1.5"?) bolt and left over or forgotten or placed by an employee. Maybe it was accidently dropped in the filler as someone was attempting to check the oil level(I saw this scholarly move back in the 1980s when someone checked the oil in a rear differential). The wear appears to be general abrasion, by vibration, at the base of the crankcase. I have seen governor spools made of plastic and metal. I personally worked on a B&S that ran wide open out of control due to a plastic spool that split. The replacement spool was metal.

I would think the engine would run wide open if the spool or internal fork/linkage was bad.

Is the fine governor return spring intack? Might be more than one on your engine.

 

[jetsam]

Disagree that it looks like it was just vibrating around in the crankcase. Look how flat and even the wear is, just on one end.

The head end looks like someone put it on a grinder, and the thread end looks relatively untouched. I'd expect more random wear if it wasn't lodged next to a moving part.

 

[fespo]

The only SCALE I see is your fingers/hand v the bolt head and the bolt head v shank. I would assume it to be a head/(rod @ 1.5"?) bolt and left over or forgotten or placed by an employee. Maybe it was accidently dropped in the filler as someone was attempting to check the oil level(I saw this scholarly move back in the 1980s when someone checked the oil in a rear differential). The wear appears to be general abrasion, by vibration, at the base of the crankcase. I have seen governor spools made of plastic and metal. I personally worked on a B&S that ran wide open out of control due to a plastic spool that split. The replacement spool was metal.

I would think the engine would run wide open if the spool or internal fork/linkage was bad.

Is the fine governor return spring intack? Might be more than one on your engine.

Yes VirgiaIron, the engine ran wide open, all springs are like new, no kinks or twist.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Disagree that it looks like it was just vibrating around in the crankcase. Look how flat and even the wear is, just on one end.

The head end looks like someone put it on a grinder, and the thread end looks relatively untouched. I'd expect more random wear if it wasn't lodged next to a moving part.

Could be? If the crankcase was totally flat then the threads would be worn and not the shank. Who knows? I just theorize the bolt head fell into a deeper section of the case and the remaining length was suspended by a raised portion????
To me, the surfaces do not appear as if a grinder was used, the surface appears perfectly flat- maybe a belt sander.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Yes VirgiaIron, the engine ran wide open, all springs are like new, no kinks or twist.

If the internals are ok, I would check the connection of the linkage to the external governor post. If this connection moves out of adjustment ever so slightly, it could cause a similar issue.

If the governor spool is worn on the edge it will change the parmeters and necessitate replacement or adjustment at the external post.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Does the case exhibit any evidence that it was previously opened?
Does this diagram appear correct?

content://media/external/file/11089

I would check the governor assembly (4) for even wear with the slider (8) and the case' post. Make sure spacers and clips, if any are present and not unusually worn. I cannot tell how the governor arm (9) attaches to the gov ass. (4)- check for proper connection and abnormal wear. Does the governor ass. (4) have moving ears/dogs retained by springs?- check these for even smooth operation.

 

[fespo]

Yes Virginiairon that’s is the right diagram. The case was never opened, it still shows all the original Honda sealant. I will take some pictures once I get home later today, I was going to order all new assembly except for the governor our part number nine


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[VirginiaIron]

If you bought the snowblower new then the bolt was in there from the factory. Metallic material may have aided in the process of speeding up wear on the governor slide, Etc. From here, that's my best guess, I don't know.

 

[fespo]

Here are few pictures. I’m ordering new parts next.


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[VirginiaIron]

Dont order new parts just yet. What portion of that assembly is the portion the governor rod/lever rides in and causes that rod to raise/lower/move back and forth as the governor weights/dogs expand and contract due to centrificle force?

 

[VirginiaIron]

Does the flattened portion of the gov. rod abbutt the plastic tube (8) in picture #4?

 

[fespo]

Does the flattened portion of the gov. rod abbutt the plastic tube (8) in picture #4?

Yes

 

[VirginiaIron]

That is where I would look for contact issues.
Those metal weights in #4 are open right now but should open up and force the tube toward the metal rod as your rpms increase (lowering rpms) and. centrificle force opens them as the gov. ass speed increases. Theoretically, those weights should be closed when not turning, presumably by some spring pressure in the assembly, since adverse spring pressure on the rod would cause premature wear of the plastic tube (8).

 

[fespo]

That is where I would look for contact issues.
Those metal weights in #4 are open right now but should open up and force the tube toward the metal rod as your rpms increase (lowering rpms) and. centrificle force opens them as the gov. ass speed increases. Theoretically, those weights should be closed when not turning, presumably by some spring pressure in the assembly, since adverse spring pressure on the rod would cause premature wear of the plastic tube (8).

Thanks I will look tomorrow after work. I had to work today plowing snow. I like to take things that are broken and try to fix them and learn along the way.

 

[VirginiaIron]

A closer look at the tooth condition of the gov. ass. in photos #3-4 at the 2-to-three o'clock position indicates rufness, and shortend teeth length compared to the others. If the plastic gear is not meshing fully, this anomoly may be enough for the assembly to stop turning an cause the throttle to go fully open.

 

[fespo]

A closer look at the tooth condition of the gov. ass. in photos #3-4 at the 2-to-three o'clock position indicates rufness, and shortend teeth length compared to the others. If the plastic gear is not meshing fully, this anomoly may be enough for the assembly to stop turning an cause the throttle to go fully open.

Maybe over the years the bolt was bounced around in the lower block and hit the. Governor a few times


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[VirginiaIron]

One tooth at 5-6 o'clock, photo #4 looks even shorter. Check the depth these gears mesh with the crank. Good luck. Keep us informed.

 

[fespo]

I think I figured out some of the mystery. After looking over this part over and over and over I flipped the piston crankshaft over and there is a threaded hole, the mystery part fits in there and if you look at the pictures of the where marks and the bold and the crankshaft you could see it has been rubbing. I believe that was the Oil splasher

 

[fespo]

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