Hooking up a manometer to double wall pipe

[64IMPALA]

Hi Guys -

I have found my way back to the hearth forum thanks to a member here (JRHAWK9) who as it turns out practically lives in my back yard. He was gracious enough to show me around his place and show me his burning setup. Very impressive . Anyways, during our conversation I mentioned that sometimes I get an overdraft on my enerzone 3.4 and the thing just runs away (even with it completely damped down). I'm not running a temperature probe in my flue (soon to be rectified), just a stove top and when the stove really gets rolling I can get temps on the top 800 degrees or more which really scares the crap outta me.

JRHAWK said I possibly need a manual damper in the flue since I have over 25 feet of flue, but before I got that, I needed to know my draft. So I contacted enerzone and got a whole page of stuff on how to test and where the draft needs to be. I've got a temperature probe and a dwyer Mark II manometer showing up this weekend.

Can I just use a standard (correct size of course) drill bit to punch thru the double wall or is the bit going to get hung up on the installation between the walls of the pipe?

In the event that my testing shows that I need a manual damper on the flue, is there a recommended location for the damper or doesn't it matter?

Thanks for the help. Got lots of reading to do in here.

J

 

[Highbeam]

There is no insulation in double wall interior pipe. Just an air gap. I would try and use the temperature probe hole to test draft and then “plug” the hole with the thermometer.

 

[64IMPALA]

I think I may have answered my own question. The black double wall pipe doesn't have insulation? My installation is in the basement. I have black double wall from the stove going up to the ceiling of the basement, where it goes into a ceiling support box. Once it exits the box the flue is stainless steel which goes through the first floor and then through another support box into the attic and out the roof. I remember the installer saying there was insulation in the double wall, do I assumed the black pipe had insulation in it as well.

So if that's the case, I should be able to just punch a bit through the black double wall, install my probe thermometer and the manometer probe. I'm probably making this more complicated than it needs to be

Thanks HighBeam - you posted just as I clicked "send"

 

[Highbeam]

Duravent sells the appliance adapter section with or without the key damper. I would just plan on needing a damper with 25’. You can run it with the damper fully open for no effect.

 

[Highbeam]

Drill away on the black pipe.

 

[Woody Stover]

In the event that my testing shows that I need a manual damper on the flue, is there a recommended location for the damper or doesn't it matter?

I'd install it fairly close to the flue exit of the stove. I ended up putting in a second damper in my SIL's pipe, and was still able to reach up the connector pipe far enough to do that since I had the first damper installed close to the flue exit.
The second damper, I got from Menards. Not as much air can get through the smaller holes in the center, and I think it also seals against the edge of the pipe better. You just need to measure around the pipe accurately when drilling the second hole in the other side of the pipe so that the shaft is situated in the center of the pipe. Get the holes at the same height, as well..

 

[Woody Stover]

You can run it with the damper fully open for no effect.

Even fully open, I've read that it will still have a slight effect, which makes sense, but I don't think it's enough to be concerned about.

 

[Highbeam]

On a noncat with a 25' flue, negligible.