Ok, I think this will be my last post regarding this topic but had some conversations today with the installers that did my stove 5 years ago at my old house. Made me rethink a few things, just wanted some hearth.com folks opinions. Sorry about the length.
Stove (Jotul F55) will be in the corner of the room on the interior picture. (DSP - double stove wall pipe) Wall thimble will be higher up on the wall (probably near the upper part of the window on the indoor picture).
Option #1 entails:
a. 45 degree offset DSP coming right off the stove followed by about 5' diagonal DSP to the wall near the window. Then a 90 degree offset DSP to the wall thimble. Next a 90 degree offset (Class A chimney pipe) outside going up. Another 30 degree offset (Class A) around the eave.
Option #2 entails:
a. Going straight up off the stove with DSP then a 90 degree offset DSP to the wall thimble. Then a 90 degree offset (class A) outside going up say 10 feet or so then another 30 degree offset around that second story window followed by another 30 degree offset around the eave. It will probably offset towards the back of the house and run all the way to the ridge of the roof in front of the attic vent. But might offset the other way towards the front but might require a little more pipe.
I know, convoluted set up but I can't run straight up inside the house as it goes through a bedroom and there is radiant heat in the floor. Plus too expensive. And that corner is really the only place I can get a stove in my house. It's that second story window that is really messing things up as I don't want a chimney pipe smack dab in front of the window.
Installer will not cut through an eave or extend the class A out another foot. And these are the only guys around that also have liability and worker's comp. And I've used them before and trust their judgement. And although I'm ok cutting a hole in my wall there is no way I'm climbing a ladder 25+ feet so self-install is out of the question. They say cleaning will be a pain with the exterior elbows but I've used the sooteater thing and it worked great on my old set-up.
Drafting is not going to be ideal but with 20+ feet of class A outside hopefully should be sufficient.
Thanks
![[Hearth.com] (Hopefully last) chimney/stove pipe routing question](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/131/131614-8ed8d9a09ecd4b167ea4c008a2b2b3cd.jpg?hash=JyB_gq1Yxw "[Hearth.com] (Hopefully last) chimney/stove pipe routing question")
![[Hearth.com] (Hopefully last) chimney/stove pipe routing question](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/131/131615-151b49c739f2942116e264ef6b457131.jpg?hash=kLIqFiBD2N "[Hearth.com] (Hopefully last) chimney/stove pipe routing question")
Stove (Jotul F55) will be in the corner of the room on the interior picture. (DSP - double stove wall pipe) Wall thimble will be higher up on the wall (probably near the upper part of the window on the indoor picture).
Option #1 entails:
a. 45 degree offset DSP coming right off the stove followed by about 5' diagonal DSP to the wall near the window. Then a 90 degree offset DSP to the wall thimble. Next a 90 degree offset (Class A chimney pipe) outside going up. Another 30 degree offset (Class A) around the eave.
Option #2 entails:
a. Going straight up off the stove with DSP then a 90 degree offset DSP to the wall thimble. Then a 90 degree offset (class A) outside going up say 10 feet or so then another 30 degree offset around that second story window followed by another 30 degree offset around the eave. It will probably offset towards the back of the house and run all the way to the ridge of the roof in front of the attic vent. But might offset the other way towards the front but might require a little more pipe.
I know, convoluted set up but I can't run straight up inside the house as it goes through a bedroom and there is radiant heat in the floor. Plus too expensive. And that corner is really the only place I can get a stove in my house. It's that second story window that is really messing things up as I don't want a chimney pipe smack dab in front of the window.
Installer will not cut through an eave or extend the class A out another foot. And these are the only guys around that also have liability and worker's comp. And I've used them before and trust their judgement. And although I'm ok cutting a hole in my wall there is no way I'm climbing a ladder 25+ feet so self-install is out of the question. They say cleaning will be a pain with the exterior elbows but I've used the sooteater thing and it worked great on my old set-up.
Drafting is not going to be ideal but with 20+ feet of class A outside hopefully should be sufficient.
Thanks
Last edited by a moderator:
