Horizontal run on a stove pipe

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According to the manual it should be -.10
Is this what you want to do? Chimneys are not an exact science, they are but there are so many contributing factors that planning one on paper might not have a desirable real world result.

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I would assume that -.10 is the minimum, and that overdraft can be regulated by the damper?

Looking at the draft equation, it doesn't seem to be influenced by the square footage of the chimney cross section. I believe a bigger chimney creates more draft (but cools quicker = more creosote). I think that number (.234) is per square foot of chimney cross sectional area. Which makes my actual draft .12 (or -.12 depending how you look at it) since my flue is 6.5" x approx 10.5". I think it's going to be close. If it is smoky, however, does this seem to be a problem that can be fixed by making the chimney higher?

I wish I had a better option for stove placement but that's the only place -- and I really want a woodburner. Plus I already bought it.
Bill, you started this thread asking if that install would work, sounds like you were planning on installing it reguardless of what you found out here. It looks like you have done all the calculations, it will be time to see if it works. Install the stove and let us know. Good luck with your install, and show us some photos of the finished product!
StoveGuy, I realized after I put up that last post that it might sound that way but that's not what I intended. Actually I have been searching all over for information the whole time this discussion has been evolving, and finding those calculations yesterday was just one part of it. This is all new to me. This discussion is very helpful -- the insulated Class A, limiting number of turns, the venting issues, house chimney effect and air duct concerns, all of it. Although I found the calculations, like Shane said, there is a science to it but it's not an exact science. It is the practical day to day experience of those who have contributed here that makes a forum like this so valuable. It may look like I've got everything set -- but only because I am trying to approach this from the angle of "how can I make this puzzle work" rather than "should I do it or not." Yes, from the get-go I was committed to doing it -- the question was how to get it to work. I have gathered from the discussion so far that there is a good possibility that it might not work -- but also that it might work. And if it doesn't work -- I'm going to have to figure out how to fix it! So I do appreciate and study every comment that has been posted and I keep checking the forum for updates all the time.
post photos! we all love photos! i think a good summary here would be, use a few elbows as absolutly possibe, get as much verticle rise as you possible can on you horizontal sections, and good luck. BTW, class A elbows are expensive, another reason to keep them to a minimum. Hopefully you will have a overdraft situation that you can turn down, its really really hard to go the other way. I hope i didnt sound crabby on my last post. Type doesnt realy show tone of voice.
Install was supposed to be this morning but postponed until next Fri or Sat. I'll try to post a pic when it's done (if it works that is!). The installer still seems pretty optimistic. BTW he also agrees with not using the outside air source.
In case anyone's still interested -- the install was last Saturday. Fired it up Sat night and had no problems whatsoever, even on initial lighting. 45 degrees and raining outside and still had an excellent draft. Something to look forward to for next winter (well... it's Minnesota, so it's not that far off...).

Thanks again everyone for your insights and help!

good to hear! nothing like good local advice. Let this thread show the value of a local hearth professional. Cant wait to see the photos, and make shure you post some of the venting.
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