We have the blaze king princess wood burning stove. This is our second season burning with this unit. Last night the chimney on the inside (from the unit to the wall) got very hot as I was starting the fire. Hot enough that I got the hot metal smell. Besides a chimney fire...which I don't think happened as it cooled down fairly quickly, what might be the cause of this?
Hot Chimney?
- Thread starter Fire_Girl_NM
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It could be paint that you are smelling; if you get the stove or pipe hotter than before, you may smell th paint curing.
How did this happen: did you close the bypass soon enough? (When the cat gauge reached the bottom of the active range?)
If yes, are you sure the bypass is closing properly? Did you have your chimney cleaned and is there now dirt preventing a good closing of the bypass?
Any air leak at the door or the ash clean out hole (if any)?
How did this happen: did you close the bypass soon enough? (When the cat gauge reached the bottom of the active range?)
If yes, are you sure the bypass is closing properly? Did you have your chimney cleaned and is there now dirt preventing a good closing of the bypass?
Any air leak at the door or the ash clean out hole (if any)?
Thats what I thought about the smell too...the pain curing because it hadn't gotten that hot before. But what caused it to get hotter than before at this point?
I did close the bypass as soon as it was in the active zone. Bypass definitely is closing properly and we did clean the chimney before this burning season.
I did close the bypass as soon as it was in the active zone. Bypass definitely is closing properly and we did clean the chimney before this burning season.
Was the weather much colder (which increases draft)?
Do you have an ash clean out? (I don't know the princess; I have a Chinook with a "lid" I can lift in the middle of the bottom of the firebox). If so, is that properly closed?
Is the door gasket still good (do a dollar bill test)?
Is your wood the same (or drier because one year older, meaning it'll burn hotter)?
Do you have an ash clean out? (I don't know the princess; I have a Chinook with a "lid" I can lift in the middle of the bottom of the firebox). If so, is that properly closed?
Is the door gasket still good (do a dollar bill test)?
Is your wood the same (or drier because one year older, meaning it'll burn hotter)?
The weather was very different last night...cold, rainy and windy. Wood is the same as we have been using. Haven't checked the gasket but I will do that tonight. Ash hole 🤣 was closed properly
So this was during warm up with bypass open, kindling, and full throttle intake. The flue can get very hot during this warm up, well before the cat meter reads active. This is why I have a flue temperature meter and when it hits 500+ I close the bypass regardless of what the cat meter says. Sort of a whichever meter gets there first situation.
You can overtemp your chimney if you aren't taking care to monitor temperatures during warm up.
So this was during warm up with bypass open, kindling, and full throttle intake.
Yes this is correct. It just had never happened before so I panicked! I was not aware that the chimney can overtemp before the box itself reaches active. Or maybe it had happened just not to the point of smelling hot metal?
Yes this is correct. It just had never happened before so I panicked! I was not aware that the chimney can overtemp before the box itself reaches active. Or maybe it had happened just not to the point of smelling hot metal?
It's easy for flue temps to exceed 1000º when draft is strong and the kindling + wood is nice and dry. All it takes is time. On our stove this can be less than 10 minutes under the right conditions. Hot reloads can take off quicker. A flue thermometer is a very helpful tool for running a stove. Single wall stovepipe gets a magnetic thermometer, double-wall stovepipe needs a probe thermometer.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I recommend and Auber AT200 temp alarm
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=292
I have two.
Evan
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=292
I have two.
Evan
I have one of those on my shop stove and for a somewhat nerdy guy that doesn't mind the look of wires hanging from the black pipe and a pretty dorky looking digital wall display, I really like it. I would like a second one in the house but it might not pass the wife test of aesthetics.
Better looking and only slightly less effective is the regular mechanical probe meter from condar. More than enough information to accomplish the task at hand for regular people.
When it first came out I contacted the Auber team and suggested a visual redesign. NoGo. They are more geared toward engineering solutions and not aesthetics.
If you get a chance it would be great to learn a bit more about how the 30-NC is being run with the Auber now as compared to earlier.
I rely on the auber to run the nc30 noncat. I am trying to get good at using a key damper to keep maximum heat being produced at the stove. I’m finding that 650-750 internal flue temps is about the best balance.
A barometric damper would be better. The damper setting for early burn is different than later in the burn so I end up futzing with it.
Thanks. That is what I am seeing too. I've toyed with putting an EBT2 on the stove, but don't know where I'd get one.
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