Eric,I’m thinking about turning a poured concrete cistern in my basement into a hot water storage reservoir. Does anybody have any links to (or information about) building a non-pressurized hot water storage tank?
His solar & tank system was installed by a fly-by-night operation of the 80's so take it for what it's worth. Does make an interesting point about leaks developing inside the storage tank, and that the coil route seams to be the better route to go. If you do stainless, better use threaded connections.I had a 2,000 gallon tank in my basement, vinyl coated cement covered with insulation. The 2000 gallons wasn't pressurized, but I had a 30 gallon stainless bung tank with stainless tubes in the middle of it that was pressurized from the well. That bung tank transferred the heat from the surrounding unpressurized water to the pressurized and gave me 30 gallons. For 9 months of the year the solar panels would heat the 2000 gallons to 140F, the other 3 months it was more like 100F, still pretty good. But, stainless is extremely difficult to weld and near the bung tank there was the smallest pinhole leak in one of the welds. That leak over time overfilled the 2k tank and the water went into the vinyl, the cement, the insulation, it was a mess and was going on for probably a month or more before I noticed. It was drained, rewelded, and happened again in another place. So, I replaced the stainless bung tank with coils of copper which worked better, they didn't develop any leaks but there wasn't 30 gallons so it didn't work as well. Then, I had problems with the solar panels and took the whole system out after 10-12 years.
I'll catch on eventually.Webmaster said:Eric, that starts letting you know how much storage you want to do X job. Makes sure there are no surprises as to what you want to get out of it, etc.
BTU in and out are the same, so the time to charge....from 140 to 190, would be about two hours minus whatever losses in the piping system. With 100 then, you could count on 8 hours of heat at about 50,000 BTU per hour to draw down the tank.
Nick, not much complexity here. Some relatively simple controls can do the job - either solar type electronic controls or boiler aquastats.
If you go this route Eric, let me know...I'll give you a hand! (always interested in 'what the other guy is doing' when it comes to wood boilers')Getting it into your basement might be another matter entirely.
Eric,Is your system gravity feed or pumped, keyman? Presurized? Are you connected with another boiler with a heat exchanger or is it piped direct?