How do I hook up new programmable thermostat in different room.

[Joey Jones]

I live in a ranch and have a Miller hot air furnace. The current old non-programable thermostat is in the room with the new stove. There is a room with water pipes in the farthest reach of my house. I would like to put a new programable thermostat in that room which is about 15' from the furnace. How do I do this? I have the new thermostat already but probably need to buy thermostat wire...Please tell me how to do this job.

All thanks Joey Chang

 

[trailblaze]

you will need to buy a 5 wire (only need 4 wires, but i couldn't find a 4 wire-wire ) extension for how many feet you will need extra. i was able to pull my thermostat wires down through the wall to the basement and splice and crimp the extension wire to the already bare ends.... if you can't pull it down, just cut it where you can find it in the basement and run the new wire from there. the connections should all be about the same from the old to the new, might have one or two new wires to hook up since it's programmable.

it's a pretty simple job, and don't need to worry about getting shocked... there isn't much currant running to the thermostat... i didn't even disconnect mine from the furnace when splicing...

 

[Joey Jones]

As I look at old thermostat wire I see only 2 connection wires ...I think pink and white, does this new programable thermostat need a four wire connection? That would mean a 4 wire connection to the furnace which must only have a 2 wire connection if the end at which thermostat is connected does only have a 2 wire connection.

Sorry if I am being dumb here , But i know nothing about heating systems ,etc

 

[Patapsco Mike]

Some of the newer thermostats have the option to use a remote thermometer, which means you can keep the unit itself in the same spot. Just plug into the existing wires, put the battery powered remote thermostat where you want it, and you're good to go.

 

[Joey Jones]

Gee Mike I was at the Home Depot a couple of days ago and did buy the ryobi splitter and did elect to buy the 5/2 programable thermostat for $38 the 7 day programable therm was $85....they did tell me i could program the 5/2 for the same every day....couldn't see sending an additional $50 for something i didn't think i needed. Maybe i make a mistake there. My old thermostat is 25 years old.

I should say at this point I have a Beckett Burner which seems to have a 4 screw attachment to it, but 2 seem to be shunted .....I have only disconnected my V.C gas stove when i sold it and did give the buyer the thermostat too and that was a 2 wire connect.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

A Miller without A/C only needs two wires. Red sends power out, and when the thermostat closes the circuit with the white wire, the heat comes on.

Furnaces with remote fan control need three wires, and adding A/C requires a fourth wire. There are fancier systems with even greater control (multi-stage, etc.), but not typically with a Miller, and obviously not with yours.

You should shut off the power to the furnace before working on the thermostat wiring. Not to protect you (it's only 24VAC), but to protect the burner control from damage.

Two-wire is fine for that application, although I recommend three-wire - that way, if one wire ever gets damaged, you can just switch to the spare wire at each end, instead of having to run a new cable.

If you want to get fancy, there are some fancy systems out there, but it sounds like you already have the thermostat, and you would have to add accessories to the furnace to get much use out of any fancy features.

Joe

 

[Medman]

Joe, on the subject of thermostats:

I took your advice and purchased the Honeywell IAQ system. I am using the W1 output to control a Taco SR501 relay. The Taco instructions indicate that the relay should be connected between W1 and R, but the Honeywell EIM manual shows the load between W1 and C (Fig. 14). Which is correct? I don't want to short the transformer.
I will have W2 and W3 connected to the two stages of electric heat in my air handler as backup heat.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

Joe, on the subject of thermostats:

I took your advice and purchased the Honeywell IAQ system. I am using the W1 output to control a Taco SR501 relay. The Taco instructions indicate that the relay should be connected between W1 and R, but the Honeywell EIM manual shows the load between W1 and C (Fig. 14). Which is correct? I don't want to short the transformer.
I will have W2 and W3 connected to the two stages of electric heat in my air handler as backup heat.

Part of what you're seeing is internal wiring in the SR501.

The Honeywell guide shows a transformer on the left, bringing power into the EIM, and a relay on the right, connected to W1. The SR501 includes both the transformer and the relay.

R and Com in the SR501 need to power the EIM, by connecting to the R and C terminals on the left of the EIM. W in the SR501 connects to the W1 terminal terminal on the right of the EIM. The relay and the connection back to C are internal to the SR501.

That said, if you are using the transformer in your air handler to control things, it would be better to remove the SR501 and replace it with a standard (unpowered) relay. Just make sure that the relay has a 24VAC coil, and contacts rated for whatever you are switching. If you need an end switch, make sure to get a DPDT or DPST relay.

Joe

 

[Medman]

My air handler includes its own 24 vac transformer and relays for the control of the electric heating elements. This is the transformer I thought I was using to feed the EIM. Should I be using the relay on the SR501 instead or just using an unpowered relay as you suggest?

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

My air handler includes its own 24 vac transformer and relays for the control of the electric heating elements. This is the transformer I thought I was using to feed the EIM. Should I be using the relay on the SR501 instead or just using an unpowered relay as you suggest?

If you have an existing transformer, you should ditch the SR501 and get an unpowered relay.

Joe

 

[Medman]

Thanks, that just saved me some money!