How hard to put in an OAK if stove is already installed? for quadrafire classic bay 1200?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Joel Craft

Member
Jul 2, 2012
36
Nome, Alaska
I have my stove already up and running but I would like to have an OAK installed. can you guys show me pics of your installs and I don't have any installers in my area so I am stuck doing it myself. I already got the oak install kit for the classic bay 1200. Thanks for the help. Jay
 
No pictures handy sorry. When you hook it up I suggest taking clear silicone and running a bead along the bottom of the stove it will pull air from there if you do not. Also on the back of the burn chamber it is not sealed it will pull air from there that should be sealed with high temp silicone.
 
I installed an OAK a year after we got our stove. Very easy to do, for my Harman anyways. I have a a corner install with a direct vent. I drilled through the wall, ran some metal flex tubing, vent cap on the outside with some silicone caulking. Hook it up to the intake and your good. 30 minute job.
 
If it's right up against a flat wall, you may need to move the stove to have room to work. It could be possible that you could get it done with a right angle drill but moving the stove isn't difficult really. Is it a vertical or horizontal pipe run?
 
My stove is 3inches from the wall and my pipe goes strait outside. Thanks for the help so far. I have not been able to find any pics yet on this site of someones install yet. I thought at one point somone had posted pics of theirs. Ja
 
It's pretty simple really. Just a flexible tube going through the wall with a dryer vent on the outside. Should be no more work than cutting a hole on the inside wall and one on the outside wall. You can use a long drill bit for your pilot hole to keep things straight. Use it to drill all the way through the wall, then use a hole saw on each side of the wall to finish the hole. I'm not sure what size flex they use... and I should know that but it's either 2" or 3" flex, make the hole a 1/4" bigger than you need. Push the insulation out of the way and run the flex through. The kit probably attaches with 4 screws to the back of the stove so that's easy as well.

If you pull the stove to do it, make sure you silicone with high temp silicone where the vent attaches to the stove when you put it back together.
 
If your stove is 3 inches from the wall I think your to close. Look where the pipe comes out it cant go straight out it has to make a tight bend and then through the wall. The only way to do it that close would be if the wall thimble had a oak connection on it doesnt sound like that is the case. Stuff the pipe in the hole and try and bend it that tight I dont think it will do it. My classic bay is about 8 inches it was still rather tight probably could have gone down to 4 or 5 maybe.
 
Deleted the pictures of mine . But it's pretty straight forward .if you got the Quad kit you will need to trim the plate to make it fit .
St_Earl on the cb1200 exhaust is on the back - intake in on the floor of the unit
 
hey, jay. i deleted my post too after reading he has a straight out exhaust.
my vertical pipe is inside, so places the back of the stove about 11 inches from the wall.
my OAK pipe does take a 90 degree turn and yes, 3 inches would be too close to allow for that.

i suppose if a vertical rise was added outside (to the exhaust pipe), the OAK could then have a straight shot out in the OP's case and the two openings would be far enough apart.

if the OAK vent is hooded with a downward opening as mine is, how far from the exhaust termination does it need to be?
can the OAK just run straight out too?

also, it could be possible to cut the holes from the outside in. if a pilot/sighting hole can be drilled. this to avoid moving the stove.

just be sure that you are clear with the hole saw of the bottom plate in the wall as well as from the vertical studs.
i missed the bottom 2x4 of the framing by a few millimeters with the hole saw.

*side point- i also siliconed behind the circular wall plate that goes where the OAK pipe passes through the wall.
 
Last edited:
looking at my manual, and it doesn't specify a distance from OAK to exhaust termination.
perhaps someone can comment if they have or have seen a straight out exhaust with a straight out OAK as well.

they couldn't open within inches of each other. but what distance would suffice?
 
I did a quick search for cb1200 oak and found a few with pictures can't seem to post the link here maybe someone can do that ? There are some good pictures from DExterDay
 
All 3 of mine have the floor plate ( all made in the last 6 years )
Thanks for the link Earl ( couldn't figure it out )
 
  • Like
Reactions: St_Earl
Wow! thanks for the help everybody. My pipe goes strait out and then up my wall 6ft on the outside. The dealer recommended that in case the power goes out it will have draft. Now off to find someone with more carpentry skills than me to assist. I might wait until it is not -15 below out to start that project. Jay
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jaymaine34
great! your oak can go straight out then no problem.
look at that thread to see how the oak hooks up inside the stove and not on the back face.

best of luck. : )

you'll want to be sure the opening doesn't get buried with snow.
and seal it off in the summer/non burning season just like the flue.
to keep out moisture and critters as well.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jaymaine34
Earl,
What's going in the hopper tomorrow ? Got some Vermonts ready to go ! Last few days have been nice 77 even with the GS !
 
while it's been warm the last few days, i've been getting rid of more of the mwp softies.
but i'll be burning the white spruce crabbe in the upcoming cold spell.
i'm sure there are pellets that out perform them, but they are a good deal hotter and quite a bit cleaner than the mwp.

next spring i'll be buying them locally as i can get them for $218 per ton.
1/2 ton loads in the subie from the next town over.

i think there is a minus 20 night and a day with a high of minus 5 coming up.
i love it. ;lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jaymaine34
Status
Not open for further replies.