How hot is too hot for my lopi liberty

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725 for 2hrs wow @ 60 degrees! .. what kind of wood is it again? The only thing I can think of is the door gasket ... You would be surprised if air is getting through in one tiny spot what it can do... Other than that its your draft .. to strong
 
iceman said:
725 for 2hrs wow @ 60 degrees! .. what kind of wood is it again? The only thing I can think of is the door gasket ... You would be surprised if air is getting through in one tiny spot what it can do... Other than that its your draft .. to strong

The wood is bone dry oak, locust, and ash. I have checked and rechecked the gasket. After i tightened the door handle a little more the fit is so tight it is hard to get the door to close. Guess i am going to have to install a pipe damper and see if that slows things down.
 
What are the flue heights of other liberty owners? Mine is between 17 ft and 20 ft.
 
lopiliberty said:
What are the flue heights of other liberty owners? Mine is between 17 ft and 20 ft.


Outside flue height is 21 feet from the bottom of the cleanout.


zap
 
Can you adjust your air control so it shuts off more air? When I got my PE true north the dealer said I may have to put some metal tape across the air inlet to close it off more if it burns too hot.

Billy
 
lopiliberty said:
I am using dry oak, locust, and ash. Not really packing the stove just 4 to 6 peices loaded north/south. When I am home i usually only put in 3 peices at a time. Even then it can easly hit 700. When I am not home or for an overnight burn thats when I usually add the 4 to 6 peices of wood.
I think I bought the wrong stove.
 
Cowboy Billy said:
Can you adjust your air control so it shuts off more air? When I got my PE true north the dealer said I may have to put some metal tape across the air inlet to close it off more if it burns too hot.

Billy

The liberty takes air from the front and the bottom. Can't remember if they both feed secondary and primary air, or the front one only feed primary air and the bottom only secondary air. I know you can stand at the other end of the living room and hear the air getting sucked it to the stove. Not sure it I can put metal tape on the bottom inlet because it gets pretty hot underneath. At what temperature is metal tape good to? I thought that if you have excessive draft, that would mean higher flue temps but i rarely see flue temps above 400. Most of the time temps are between 300 and 350.
 
You may want to try to block off the secondary air a little. If the Liberty has it in the same place as the Endeavor it'll be under the side shields towards the back of the stove. If you look up the side shield from the floor you will see a rectangular channel on each side of the stove. Start by blocking half of it and see if it helps, if not block a little more.

My Endeavor also liked to run hot like your Liberty, it drove me crazy when I didn't need/want those types of temps. :lol:
 
rdust said:
You may want to try to block off the secondary air a little. If the Liberty has it in the same place as the Endeavor it'll be under the side shields towards the back of the stove. If you look up the side shield from the floor you will see a rectangular channel on each side of the stove. Start by blocking half of it and see if it helps, if not block a little more.

My Endeavor also liked to run hot like your Liberty, it drove me crazy when I didn't need/want those types of temps. :lol:

Don't see anything like that on my liberty. Only two air inlets I have are at the bottom front of the stove and a rectangular open with two big round holes on the bottom of the stove where the outside air kit would go. I'm going to get some metal tape and put some over the bottom opening and see what happens. It will then probably start taking more air from the front opening. Those temps are only nice when you are trying to warm up a cold house in a hurry. Once its warm I don't need the temps because it literally runs you out of the house.
 
I wouldn't completely block any of the air inlets. Try using magnets and partially blocking the holes. Completely blocking them would probably just turn your stove into a smoke dragon. Personally, I'd install a damper before I started blocking air holes.
 
kingquad said:
I wouldn't completely block any of the air inlets. Try using magnets and partially blocking the holes. Completely blocking them would probably just turn your stove into a smoke dragon. Personally, I'd install a damper before I started blocking air holes.

Pipe damper is a last resort. Makes flue more tricky to clean. Wasn't going to completely cover the air inlets, just cover half of the inlet on the bottom of the stove and see it that makes a difference.
 
I know I seemed to replace the gasket on my Liberty every year...otherwise I just couldn't control the burn as much as I wanted to. I'm burning my boiler outside now, so the Liberty only fires up for ambiance or electrical outages....but I do love the stove.

Has anyone ever rotated their secondary tubes around and noticed any differnce in the secondary burn?

I'd also think you wouldn't want to reduce the amount of secondary air, as that will likely reduce the secondary combustion, i.e. let the gases go up the flu unburned.

My stack is just over 20' I think. A damper might have helped...but replacing the gasket always seemed to do the trick. Could burn for 8-10 hours easy with a new gasket, and not that long with the "old". Almost seemed like i could put the fire out with the new gasket by pulling the air control all the way out....
 
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