How much wood

[Caruso293]

Being new this stuff, wondering how much wood I can expect to go through during a normal winter in CT. I am burning all oak with moisture about 20 percent with new meter. I plan to burn 24/7 and my thermostats are off. My home is roughy 2300 sf. Wood will be my primary heat source. I'm thinking around 5 cords, however a friend told me that's extremely high and if I go through that much wood I'm burning way too hot. I have been burning for about 3 weeks and looks like i burning about a cord per month. am i way off or doing something wrong? I know there are lots of variables that go into this but just looking for a ball park number so I can plan accordingly. Thanks in advance.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Is this the first year with the stove?
What stove is it?

 

[HotCoals]

First is that 20% on a fresh re-split..if not I would split a bigger split then check.
5 cords a season would be high for you.
I heat a 2500 two story house in upstate ny with 3 to 4 cords.
But I have a free stander and you have a insert so i really don't know.
Is that stove a cat or tube?

 

[Slow1]

Being new this stuff, wondering how much wood I can expect to go through during a normal winter in CT. I am burning all oak with moisture about 20 percent with new meter. I plan to burn 24/7 and my thermostats are off. My home is roughy 2300 sf. Wood will be my primary heat source. I'm thinking around 5 cords, however a friend told me that's extremely high and if I go through that much wood I'm burning way too hot. I have been burning for about 3 weeks and looks like i burning about a cord per month. am i way off or doing something wrong? I know there are lots of variables that go into this but just looking for a ball park number so I can plan accordingly. Thanks in advance.

You are correct in that there are a lot of factors to consider. One big one is how warm you like to keep your home "Heating" the place does mean different things to different folks - some are satisfied with 65* others shiver below 78*.

Anyway - as a reference we have been burning between 3-4 cords/year heating more space than you for the last 4 years with mostly the stove. Generally speaking we are closer to the 65* crowd though.

First year you will go through more wood - it is fun to feed the stove and you want to try it out more, plus there is a learning curve to figure out how to optimally load and time your feedings. I'm going through that now with my new stove - house is much warmer than we're used to (nobody has complained yet... I may just have to cut more wood next year) as I haven't mastered cooler burns or the timing yet here.

As someone already suggested - if you aren't measuring the wood from a freshly split face you likely don't really have 20% mc in that wood. Assuming that you do have 20% you have decent wood to burn so that should not be holding you back. If it is much higher then you can expect to go through quite a bit more wood. Keep in mind that with a good modern stove you want to dial the air back quite a bit to get optimum heat out - it seems backwards but you do in fact get less heat with more air when burning good dry wood so see how far back you can dial it and still burn clean.

 

[69911e]

We used 3 cord the first year and 1.5 cord (mostly cherry) last year heating to 72deg 2650FT2 in central CT using our insert and 40gal oil. Last year was very warm and house is very (all foam) insulated.

 

[Huntindog1]

Someone define a Cord

 

[HotCoals]

Cord=4'x8'x4'

Around here we call a 4'x8'x16" a face cord..1/3 of a cord.

 

[Caruso293]

Wow those were fast responses. My stove is a lopi freedom bay insert with a 3.2 cf box. I will go out and re split a and measure again. The house has been a steady 70 upstairs and downstairs. The rooms further away are less and the stove room is obviously higher. My attic is very well insulated just had cellulose blown in 14 inches. However the windows are older and we also have a very poorly insulated ( glass windows on three sides) four season room next to our stove room. This is my first year and it is extremely fun to get that fire going. I know last year was very mild in ct but the year before we had record snow fall and low temps.i measured a split that was split about 12 months ago and is stacked. Are you saying to split that again and take another reading?

 

[Slow1]

Someone define a Cord

Funny you should mention this as I was thinking of mentioning that if one purchases wood, then doesn't actually stack and measure it then you don't really know how much you are burning. I'm sure there are honest sellers out there, but I'm even more certain that there are folks estimating their volumes when they deliver (and not really concerned too much if they are short). Stack it neatly, measure the cube and see if it adds up to 128 cubic feet - exact dimensions aren't necessarily critical as long as you stack neatly and measure accurately.

I have to wonder if the OP (and others) may perhaps be overestimating burn rate as a result of not really having as much wood as they think...

 

[Caruso293]

Also I try to maintain a stove temp of 500-600. It's way my glass stays clean and no smoke from chimney. Overnight is different. I stack that sucker get it hot 700 plus and cut the air almost all the way. I don't think it's possible to have my house at 65 degrees if my stove is running at the recommended temp. This thing throws out way more heat than I was excepting. Most times so far this year I have not even needed the blower. There is a large learning curve and I am starting to get better. Thanks again everyone.

 

[Slow1]

Are you saying to split that again and take another reading?

Yup - pick a few decent sized splits from different spots in the pile. Split each fresh, then measure in the middle of the fresh face with the prongs going along the grain. Average the measurements or just keep them all in mind. If you get major differences and you are not cutting your own then you may have wood from different sources/ages or they were stored in different conditions (or they could be different species of wood of course).

 

[Caruso293]

Just split a piece. Outside read 19 percent. Split it in half and the inside measured at 31 percent. I think I found my problem. I bought the wood from a guy last spring. All oak. Said it was 4 months seasoned when I got it last march. Def did not get 3 cords he said he sold me. After I stacked it was like 2 plus cords. Oh we'll live and learn. I think I will get a ton of bio bricks to supplement this winter.

 

[Slow1]

Just split a piece. Outside read 19 percent. Split it in half and the inside measured at 31 percent. I think I found my problem. I bought the wood from a guy last spring. All oak. Said it was 4 months seasoned when I got it last march. Def did not get 3 cords he said he sold me. After I stacked it was like 2 plus cords. Oh we'll live and learn. I think I will get a ton of bio bricks to supplement this winter.

Yup - that will make a difference.. So, you bought it in March and it had 4 months then (if true) then it is about 1 year. Then again, many dealers consider wood to start 'seasoning' when the trunk hits the ground - we generally start when the rounds are split. In any case that oak is about 1 year down - really 2 more to go until it is "really" good to burn. Likely it will be much better next year if you treat it nice (stack loose and top cover in an airy location).

Time to get busy collecting wood!

 

[schlot]

Yup - that will make a difference.. So, you bought it in March and it had 4 months then (if true) then it is about 1 year. Then again, many dealers consider wood to start 'seasoning' when the trunk hits the ground - we generally start when the rounds are split. In any case that oak is about 1 year down - really 2 more to go until it is "really" good to burn. Likely it will be much better next year if you treat it nice (stack loose and top cover in an airy location).

Time to get busy collecting wood!

Craigslist is great for that. "Seasoned wood" could mean big stacked rounds, but not split...standing dead trees, etc.

 

[Caruso293]

Yes this was a Craigslist purchase. Anyone have any experience with bio bricks. Is 1 ton of bio brick comparable to a little more than 1 cord of wood as they advertise??

 

[lopiliberty]

The house has been a steady 70 upstairs and downstairs.

I can't believe your house doesn't get in hotter than 70 degrees burning a lopi. In fact, out of all the lopi owners on here I don't know of any of them being able to keep there house below 75. The thermometer in my living room reached 94 last night but that was after a full 24 of having a fire. I have tried everything to keep this house under 85 but it just doesn't happen with this liberty

 

[Woodreb]

We've been using Envi-8 blocks mixed in with cherry that was cut over a year ago but not split until last month. (I'm still working on convincing my husband that it should be split sooner, but that's another story). When we first got our stove (Regency I2400), the supplier I got the Envi -8 blocks from suggested that they would be better than the Bio Brick. I've read that the Bio Brick is a blend of soft and hardwood and the Envi blocks are 100% hard wood. We did get a couple of packs of Bio Blocks as a free sample from our wood stove dealer, so I've used them as well and they do work OK. I think they burn a bit aster than the Envi-8 blocks.
I've found that it works pretty well for our setup and we've not used a whole pallet of bricks in one year doing it that way. I'd say that we used about 2/3rds of a pallet the first year with 2 cords of wood and 1/2 or less last year with about a cord of wood since it was so warm. We're also in CT.

I don't know if this would work as well with Oak that is 30% moisture in the center.

 

[Caruso293]

I was very disappointed today when I learned the Oak I had was 30 percent in the middle. So I either take a chance and order a couple cords of (seasoned) wood from another stranger, or just pick up a couple tons of the bio brick type fuel. I have access to lots of green oak which will be great in a couple years. I may do some more research on some more reputable wood dealers. As far as my Lopi not heating hot, the 70 degree mark was a very conservative average. Right now my thermostat in the hall way which is 15 feet from the stove and in a separate room reads 76. My upstairs is 71 and not quite sure of the opposite end of the house ( prob around 68). My four season great room with older windows on all three sides is sucking up a lot of the heat. Also my house is far from an open floor plan. Its a 4 bedroom colonial bedrooms on 2nd floor. living room, great room, den, kitchen, and dining room all with their own entrances on the first floor. We notice a huge difference when we close the great room room off, but we enjoy that room so we leave it open except for at night. I think the stove is amazing burning poorly seasoned wood, I cant wait to see what this thing does with properly seasoned wood or eco brick. Thanks everyone again. I will let you all know what I decide to do and the outcome.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I was very disappointed today when I learned the Oak I had was 30 percent in the middle. So I either take a chance and order a couple cords of (seasoned) wood from another stranger,

You will not find "seasoned" or "dry" wood available for delivery three days before December. Doesn't matter what the supplier says. It just isn't happening. You can burn wet wood. It is just less efficient and a pain in the ass to do. But, it can be done.

or just pick up a couple tons of the bio brick type fuel. I have access to lots of green oak which will be great in a couple years. I may do some more research on some more reputable wood dealers. As far as my Lopi not heating hot, the 70 degree mark was a very conservative average. Right now my thermostat in the hall way which is 15 feet from the stove and in a separate room reads 76. My upstairs is 71 and not quite sure of the opposite end of the house ( prob around 68). My four season great room with older windows on all three sides is sucking up a lot of the heat. Also my house is far from an open floor plan. Its a 4 bedroom colonial bedrooms on 2nd floor. living room, great room, den, kitchen, and dining room all with their own entrances on the first floor. We notice a huge difference when we close the great room room off, but we enjoy that room so we leave it open except for at night. I think the stove is amazing burning poorly seasoned wood, I cant wait to see what this thing does with properly seasoned wood or eco brick. Thanks everyone again. I will let you all know what I decide to do and the outcome.

If you have the resources, then I would buy the Bio Bricks for an added boost/convenience. Considering how wet your wood is, your stove temps and house temps seem pretty respectable.

Check your liner/chimney once a month as you will probably have to clean it more often.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Being new this stuff, wondering how much wood I can expect to go through during a normal winter in CT. I am burning all oak with moisture about 20 percent with new meter. I plan to burn 24/7 and my thermostats are off. My home is roughy 2300 sf. Wood will be my primary heat source. I'm thinking around 5 cords, however a friend told me that's extremely high and if I go through that much wood I'm burning way too hot. I have been burning for about 3 weeks and looks like i burning about a cord per month. am i way off or doing something wrong? I know there are lots of variables that go into this but just looking for a ball park number so I can plan accordingly. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the forum Caruso293.

Others have touched on the moisture and the fact that oak needs a long time to dry (we give it 3 years after split then stacked outside where it gets wind) but I'd like to touch on one more thing. That is your statement, "...looks like i burning about a cord per month." You are basing this on the month of November. Winter doesn't even start until December 22 (or 21, it varies). What you burn in November is nothing like what you will burn in December, January and February. That is when you will burn the wood for sure.

In addition to the point of raising the house temperature x degrees above the outdoor temperature, you need to factor in the fact that you have been burning poor fuel. When doing that, you definitely will burn a lot more wood vs burning good fuel. You very well might cut that by 40% if you have good fuel.


One more point and this might be the biggest. Because of the wood you've been burning, even though you have been burning it hot, you need to CHECK THAT CHIMNEY! That should not be put off. We've seen cases where people plug their chimneys with creosote and soot in only a month. That is a big fire hazard.

Please, every new wood burner needs to check that chimney at least monthly and clean as necessary.

Sorry that I can not answer about the bio bricks as we've burned only wood and a little bit of coal (but the coal was many, many moons ago).

Good luck.

 

[argus66]

im in nj and i do 4 cords a season and burn almost 24/7 when really cold out.

 

[Justin]

Only thing with bio bricks is they burn ultra hot! Learning curve with them as it is handled differently then wood but works well when mixed. And yes I used both bio and Eco and Eco burns slower. Only thing I found with the Eco bricks and bio bricks s no embers but a lower and finer ash.

 

[Caruso293]

I think I am going to order a ton or 2 of the ENVI BRICKS. Been hearing very good things about these. 100 percent hard wood with less than 5 percent moisture. I am going to order some of those and save my wood for next year. apparently these burn a lot longer and hotter than the bio and eco bricks. Very excited to see what my stove does with some good fuel. I am going to stock up now with green wood and let it season properly. I am learning quickly why people say the first couple years with a stove are the hardest. Patients also come in handy, and I have very little patients. Slow and steady wins the race I guess. Thanks for the advice about re splitting my wood and taking a center reading. If not for this site I would have been thinking all along I was burning premium wood. Thanks again everyone. Talk soon

 

[simple.serf]

+1 on checking the stack. I had to burn some wet wood last year (it will be the last!), and I was checking my stack every two weeks and usually running the brush though once a month. I have some bad habits for a tube stove, that are proving harder to break than I would like, which also has led to a bit of creosote.