How to add stone veneer to a wall?

[Jaye31987]

Note: I meant build out a fire place.

Hello all, I literally just closed on a house and was hoping for some advice on remodeling the fireplace correctly. Currently the fire place have ugly green tiles and its flat against the wall. My goals is to pop it out and add stones up to the ceilings. My question is, how do I handle the actual fire place? Do I build more to the fire place with real bricks (to create the depth and enclosure so the fire place dpesnt look far back). I looked at a bunch of videos but they are all with pre existing depth. What is the appropriate/ recommended depth? 6 inches? If some one can point me to videos or articles on diy in my situation I would greatly appreciate.

 

[begreen]

There a quite a few threads here on adding a stone veneer to a wall. The most important part is to provide a firm foundation on the wall to anchor the stone. Which process is best will depend on the material used, but many require a moisture barrier (tar paper) and then a wire mesh attached to provide a strong base for the mortar.

Here is one example of a wall of stone going up
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/house-reno-update.164466/page-2#post-2217353

PS: I edited the title to direct more attention to this project's specific needs.

 

[begreen]

This is a completed brick veneer wall project with a new high efficiency wood fireplace install. This is something to think about. It's often good to live 6 months to a year in a place before making major changes. That way you have a chance to see how the heating, lighting and space work out over the seasons. If there is a possibility that in the future the goal is to get some real, useable and efficient heat out of the fireplace then it would be good to hold off on changes until a replacement has also been planned out.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/zero-clearance-wood-burning-fireplace-build-and-install.168764/

 

[Jaye31987]

There a quite a few threads here on adding a stone veneer to a wall. The most important part is to provide a firm foundation on the wall to anchor the stone. Which process is best will depend on the material used, but many require a moisture barrier (tar paper) and then a wire mesh attached to provide a strong base for the mortar.

Here is one example of a wall of stone going up
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/house-reno-update.164466/page-2#post-2217353

PS: I edited the title to direct more attention to this project's specific needs.

Thank you so much for the advice and help. My question was regarding how to build out of the fire place properly. Ironically, I might never use the fire place, but i figure I do it properly for safety reasons. Here are two pictures of my sketches. My goals is to have the fire place flush with the veneer, not sunken. Im assuming using some type of elbow vent would be the way to go so I can pull the fire place out?

 

[Jaye31987]

Other sketch didnt get uploaded

 

[begreen]

That could be a major undertaking and expense. If you use a thin stone veneer the existing fireplace would only be recessed about an inch or two.
http://www.eldoradostone.com/types/stone/

 

[Jaye31987]

That could be a major undertaking and expense. If you use a thin stone veneer the existing fireplace would only be recessed about an inch or two.
http://www.eldoradostone.com/types/stone/

Thanks for the link, I'm definitely going with the thin route. Based on your experience or any here, how much of a recessed is considered borderline ok for a fire place?

 

[begreen]

I don't think there is a limit as long as it is non-combustible. Some fireplaces are set pretty deep, especially those using full, real stone like river rock. One course of brick or 4" is pretty common.

 

[xman23]

I'd look for the original fireplace installation manual. It should show typical stud wall clearances. So you want to side the complete unit forward 6 inches. Then frame out a new wall floor to ceiling. So the chimney will be a bit out of plumb. Seams like it could work. I'd open up the wall above the fireplace and have a look. Worst case, there's an issue and you faux stone the existing wall. My stone was put on stucco mesh nailed to the sheet rock wall.

I like Begreens idea. Try the thing out, you may change your mind on what you want. Typically those things are contractors grade. If the fire box is not very deep, it can't be loaded with much wood. I assume that keeps the heat load down.

 

[begreen]

So the chimney will be a bit out of plumb. Seams like it could work.

The chimney should be plumb and the chimney should be braced or fire-stopped in the chase. 6" is not a little change, it would require an offset. It's unsure what chimney pipe is used and whether elbows for the offset are still made. There may be a fresh air intake to the fireplace that needs to be extended. Clearance from the chimney pipe to the header would have to be checked to verify that it is still safe.

Jaye do you know the make and model of the fireplace? It often is on a small tag in the door frame on the fireplace body.

 

[Jaye31987]

Sorry for being late with the replied, been busy trying to fix other crap. The brand is call heatilator. I'm probably going to just leave it in place and not have it flush. I don't think it will look too bad?