How to best stack wood in 8x12 shed

[velocity1]

Hi All,
I built this shed this past summer and Im struggling with how to best stack wood in it. Currently I have been stacking it in rows left to right however Im finding this method not the most useful for my scenario. It holds around 4 cords but I typically burn about 2-3 per season. This leaves some wood still in the shed at the end of the season so if i go to add new wood that is less seasoned I have to empty out the shed and put the greener stuff in the back. This is my pain point so looking for alternate methods to stack. I was thinking of stacking front to back instead of left to right and then make some lincoln log stacks on the end so the wood doesn't roll out the front. The other option I was thinking of was sectioning out the shed by running some 8' planks from the front center to back center so I have a left compartment and a right compartment essentially making it into two 4' x 6' sections instead of one 8' x 12' and then stack the wood left to right. This way i have a greener side and then a more seasoned side. Are there any other options you could recommend? Out of my two options do you think one is better than the other? Thanks

 

[Wildflush]

Is this shed for wood that you are storing wood that is already seasoned? The reason I ask with 8 ft deep and let’s say your splits are 16” long. Front to back that 6 rows deep to make 8’. Don’t have a wood shed but how would that season well? Just asking since I would think the inner rows would not get sun or much air circulation.

Really nice shed by the way!

 

[EbS-P]

How do you get your wood? If you get it all at once you could get by with a dry side and a not ready yet. But if scrounge like me, I would stack left to right make 3 bays. Ready to burn today, next years wood, and really really wet.

Left to right will be the easiest to pack it full and most stable.

 

[velocity1]

Is this shed for wood that you are storing wood that is already seasoned? The reason I ask with 8 ft deep and let’s say your splits are 16” long. Front to back that 6 rows deep to make 8’. Don’t have a wood shed but how would that season well? Just asking since I would think the inner rows would not get sun or much air circulation.

Really nice shed by the way!

Thanks The wood im storing in there is seasoned but I only have about 3 cords left so Ill be adding in some greener stuff so it'll be a mix. This shed mainly relies on wind to dry it up as you note sun only gets the front row really. Where I located the shed is in the valley area of my property where the wind comes through and theres no shortage of it, its basically a wind tunnel. Since the shed is basically open with the side slats it gets a lot of wind in there so I dont really perceive much issues with drying. I also have some pallets outside of the shed for the really green, I just cut it down, stuff.

 

[velocity1]

How do you get your wood? If you get it all at once you could get by with a dry side and a not ready yet. But if scrounge like me, I would stack left to right make 3 bays. Ready to burn today, next years wood, and really really wet.

Left to right will be the easiest to pack it full and most stable.

Im a scrounger too lol. I have pallets outside of the shed I can put the really wet stuff but the 3 bays is a good option too thanks

 

[EbS-P]

Im a scrounger too lol. I have pallets outside of the shed I can put the really wet stuff but the 3 bays is a good option too thanks

If/when I build a shed I really only want to ever stack the wood once. Maybe 4 bays. 1-2 cords each. My piles without a plan mean I stack wet stuff in front of dry. And I don’t get to choose the length of what’s already been cut. That makes sturdy stacks difficult.

I can’t pass up free wood close to home so I’m always out of good places to put it. I’ve crossed the point now that I have 3 years of dry wood. Now I can think about organizing not gathering. Until the next big storm that is.

 

[velocity1]

If/when I build a shed I really only want to ever stack the wood once. Maybe 4 bays. 1-2 cords each. My piles without a plan mean I stack wet stuff in front of dry. And I don’t get to choose the length of what’s already been cut. That makes sturdy stacks difficult.

I can’t pass up free wood close to home so I’m always out of good places to put it. I’ve crossed the point now that I have 3 years of dry wood. Now I can think about organizing not gathering. Until the next big storm that is.

Yeah Ive already moved moved wood in there more times than I'd like, goal is around what you have seasoned. I only started burning under a year and a half ago so slowly but surely I'm getting there.

 

[Wildflush]

I might be careful drying red oak in the middle rows since it’s a bear to season. I have mine in single row stacks that gets good sun and wind. Split it small would also help.

 

[EbS-P]

I might be careful drying red oak in the middle rows since it’s a bear to season. I have mine in single row stacks that gets good sun and wind. Split it small would also help.

I made the mistake of letting my rows touch end to end. It may never dry.

 

[ericm979]

Remove the slats across the back and move the stacks behind it so you can get to the back of the shed with whatever you use to load and unload wood. Then you can unload dry wood from the back and fill it up with wet wood, then unload from the front next year. I.e. a first in, first out queue rather than the first in last out that is is now. I'm planning a shed that looks a lot like that and I would make it accessible from both sides if I had the room. Level ground is scarce here.

Splitting it into bays would help too.

 

[mpaul]

The other option I was thinking of was sectioning out the shed by running some 8' planks from the front center to back center so I have a left compartment and a right compartment

^ This. I would do this.

At first glance at your shed (which is very nice) I thought it was missing the center divider which not only helps segregate the wood for different years but also makes it easier when loading /unloading so the wood piles don’t fall everywhere. Given your burning pattern dividing it into two is simple enough to do.

 

[Niro]

I built a very similar style. 8×12. Don't forget cross braces as wood could lean depending on how you stack. I did a center divider and my thought was dry one burn one. Two year layer, I need more storage space.

 

[stoveliker]

In my shed (18'*8') oak in the middle gets to 14 pct in three years no problem.

Indeed, open up the back. Two side access means never having to restack regardless of how far you were into a bay.

 

[Wildflush]

In my shed (18'*8') oak in the middle gets to 14 pct in three years no problem.

Indeed, open up the back. Two side access means never having to restack regardless of how far you were into a bay.

Wow 6 rows deep at 16” splits and oak at 14%. You must split small.

 

[stoveliker]

5-6". Whether you call that small I don't know.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Build another shed and get 2+ full years ahead. And partition them.

 

[KDubU]

I just like the shed.

 

[Ashful]

This isn't the easy answer you'd like to hear, but personally, I'd tear the roof off and rebuild it for access from both sides. My sheds are broken into four 1-cord bays, for this very reason. Each bay is 8' wide x 36" deep, and holds two rows of 18" splits. Two bays on one side, two on the other, for easy drive-up arm's length access to all wood, without walking into a deep shed. I have four like this, and a fifth that's smaller.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

With all the tractors, I’m surprised you haven’t gone modular and insert 4x4 sections of palletized firewood.

 

[Wildflush]

5-6". Whether you call that small I don't know.

I was thinking 3”. That’s great that 6” splits inner rows drying to 14”.

 

[Wildflush]

This isn't the easy answer you'd like to hear, but personally, I'd tear the roof off and rebuild it for access from both sides. My sheds are broken into four 1-cord bays, for this very reason. Each bay is 8' wide x 36" deep, and holds two rows of 18" splits. Two bays on one side, two on the other, for easy drive-up arm's length access to all wood, without walking into a deep shed. I have four like this, and a fifth that's smaller.

View attachment 311496 View attachment 311498

Really like these. 2 rows deep is perfect allows for fast seasoning!

 

[stoveliker]

I was thinking 3”. That’s great that 6” splits inner rows drying to 14”.

The wind that blows thru (I'm near the coast) helps, I surmise. One side is more open than the shed above, the other side is completely open, as are the front (seeing sun) and back (for double access).

 

[Wildflush]

The wind that blows thru (I'm near the coast) helps, I surmise. One side is more open than the shed above, the other side is completely open, as are the front (seeing sun) and back (for double access).

The reason I asked is I have 6” red oak in single rows with sun that I recently checked and still over 20% after two years. Coast must help because I was wondering how splits in rows 3 and 4 could get to 14%. My oak does not like to get up moisture.

 

[stoveliker]

I checked my numbers, I was mistaken. It was 16%, not 14. I've had pine below 15, not oak. (but then again the precision of these moisture meters is worse than 1%..)

I was unable to get the same when tarping in single row (or double row) stacks (on 2x4s on cinder blocks) in the same location as where my shed is now.

I know there's a lot of beliefs on this issue, and mine is (i.e. no proof, just anecdotal) that the rain hitting splits on the sides does slow drying down. In my shed (with large eves), everything really stays dry, always.

I do think that around 2 years I was at 19% or so (starting at sopping wet when green). That third year does help.


But back to the OP, I believe (as I said before) that to avoid restacking, you need access from both sides. Start on one side, and if only half is used during a season, fill it up with green wood, and next season start on the other side until you reach the green wood, and go to the next bay. No need to change the roof - just wear a hard hat

 

[Ashful]

With all the tractors, I’m surprised you haven’t gone modular and insert 4x4 sections of palletized firewood.

Me? Thought about it, but there were several disadvantages to it, which pushed me toward the method photo'd above:

1. My wagon fits onto the patio under my covered porch real nice, but my tractor does not. So, I'd have trouble easily getting these pallets onto the patio far enough to be fully shielded from blowing rain and snow.
2. I must traverse a side slope hill while moving wood from processing area to the house, which would limit the size pallet I can carry with my tractor (present heaviest is Deere 3033R with loaded tires).
3. I like to shake the mouse nests, bee nests, and spiders out of the stacked wood before bringing it up to the house. Moving it from shed to wagon is a good way to do this.
4. Palletized is harder to roof, and takes up much more ground space for the same cordage. My processing area is limited, pinched between an old rubble stone wall and my property line.