How to break in a new saw?

[gizmos]

Hi all,
This might have been covered, but I thought I would ask. Whats the best way to break in a new saw. Just found a 361 Stihl, 12 saw shops later looking for it. Any way what grade fuel and what mix of oil is best to break them in. One saw shop makes the mix hot, almost 100 to 1, and only uses the high octane fuel. They recommended running two tanks of fuel with the hot mix before going back to 50 to 1.

Another shop said to only use mid grade fuel because the put to many chemicals in the high octane fuel. And the didn't recommend a hot mix, just 50 to 1.

Another shop said not to run the saw very long, 5 to 10 minutes max at a time, for the first tank of fuel.

What gives, every shop has their own twist to breaking in a saw. What do you guys think?

I have an ECHO and a Stihl. Should I use the ECHO oil or the Stihl oil ? for both the saws.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Flatbedford]

Did the saw come with a manual? If not look here.
http://stihlusa.com/information/info_product2.html
I would do whatever Stihl says to do.

 

[smokinj]

Just dont run WOT out of the cut,booth are good oils

 

[kevin j]

100:1 is way lean on oil, I for sure would not do that. nor go back to that shop.
maybe some extra oil, but I'd just start it on the normal mix I use, 50:1 synthetic oil, and 91 octane no ethanol fuel.
the manual should cover it.
If nothing there, I'd idle to heat it up about 30 seconds, let it cool totally. do that a couple times, then go to work. just no WOT out of the load. No long term full load, i.e. no milling, just shorter time periods.

modern machining has less of the surface issues to 'break in' on the bearings, rings, cylinder piston etc.

kcj

 

[HittinSteel]

mix 50:1 with 89 or 93. Run the saw at max rpm's in the cut and do not rev to the moon out of the cut.

 

[Flapjack23]

Possibly run a little heavy on the oil. .9 gallons gas for the 2.6 oz oil first mix then mix the full gallon. Don't make long cuts for the first few tanks. 361 is a good saw. Just got one this summer myself.

Andy

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Fill it with gas and bar oil and start sawing wood. Yes, it IS that simple.



EDIT: I wouldn't use anything thinner than 50:1

RE-EDIT: Not just on break in, but ever.

 

[gizmos]

Thanks for the good info.
Were cutting after Thanksgiving, Friday and Saturday.

I think I'm going to stick with the echo oil (power blend synthetic ).
It would be a pain carrying around two gas cans, one for the echo and one for the stihl, would be a pain.

Gas? Mid grade 89, or high grade 91 ????
And cheveron , shell or 76 ????
Cheveron and shell put in additives in. Anyone have any problems with gas ??

Thanks again
Mark

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Fill it with gas and bar oil and start sawing wood. Yes, it IS that simple.



EDIT: I wouldn't use anything thinner than 50:1

RE-EDIT: Not just on break in, but ever.

+1

Also after your 1st use . Go and check all bolts and nuts for tightness.

After your 1st tank of fuel check and see how much bar oil you used. My saw uses 1 tank of bar oil for every 2 tanks of fuel when i'm bucking.

 

[Wacky1]

Run er' like you will use er'

 

[Spikem]

The people I talk with say to use the highest octane unleaded (93) and at a 50-1 ratio.

Fill the bar oil resevoir every time you fill the gas tank.

Empty out the gas tank when you're done and won't be using it for a while. (I don't know if the same is necessary for the bar oil.)

Keep the chain sharp.

Pretty basic, from what I've found.

 

[Tony H]

I use the chevron semi synthetic oil but any of the brand name oils should be ok , look in the owners manual and see if they require high octane gas. Octane rating is only an indication of resistance to detonation due to high compression and WILL NOT help your engine in any other way it will only waste your money if not required by the engine.
One thing to always add is a dose of stabil to the gas when you fill the cans this prevents gas deterioration and you do not have to empty the tanks of any of your motorized equipment. BTW got this gas info from two family members who are chemical engineers and think they know everything about fuel.
I just keep asking " does anyone else smell gas" when they are around. :smirk:
I sure as heck would not go leaner than 50-1 and would not carry different gas for different saws.

I have a free saw break in service just ship the saw to me and when it's broken in I will send it back to you.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Thanks for the good info.
Were cutting after Thanksgiving, Friday and Saturday.

I think I'm going to stick with the echo oil (power blend synthetic ).
It would be a pain carrying around two gas cans, one for the echo and one for the stihl, would be a pain.

Gas? Mid grade 89, or high grade 91 ????
And cheveron , shell or 76 ????
Cheveron and shell put in additives in. Anyone have any problems with gas ??

Thanks again
Mark

There are hundreds of gas formulations in America. Hundreds. And they vary from region to region. So brand names don't mean much on an national forum. Go with the high test whichever brand you choose. If you're worried about it try several brands. I bet you'll find one your saw prefers.

If you really want the best possible fuel stop at your local airport and get a couple gallons of AvGas - 100LL. It's leaded. It never goes bad or gums up your carb. And your saw will start easier (mine does).

 

[smokinj]

Thanks for the good info.
Were cutting after Thanksgiving, Friday and Saturday.

I think I'm going to stick with the echo oil (power blend synthetic ).
It would be a pain carrying around two gas cans, one for the echo and one for the stihl, would be a pain.

Gas? Mid grade 89, or high grade 91 ????
And cheveron , shell or 76 ????
Cheveron and shell put in additives in. Anyone have any problems with gas ??

Thanks again
Mark

There are hundreds of gas formulations in America. Hundreds. And they vary from region to region. So brand names don't mean much on an national forum. Go with the high test whichever brand you choose. If you're worried about it try several brands. I bet you'll find one your saw prefers.

If you really want the best possible fuel stop at your local airport and get a couple gallons of AvGas - 100LL. It's leaded. It never goes bad or gums up your carb. And your saw will start easier (mine does).

we still have one station here not using corn,if Iam not close to it I'll run the 93 octan

 

[billb3]

Even though my manual says high octane, my Stihl was recommended to run regular and 50:1, bring it back after two tanks to test carb settings.

 

[MofoG23]

Congrats on the saw!

I've been running 93 octane with Stihl HP oil - 50:1. Consdering what I paid for the saw, the extra few bucks spent on a quality fuel and oil are well worth it IMO.

I would NOT run 100:1 - proper lubrication is very important, especially with a new saw. As for break in, during my first tank, I would start it up and work the throttle a bit, then let it cool down. Did this a few times. Not sure if it really did anything, but any new motor (vehicle, quad, dirtbike) that I've owned, I would never run it WOT during the first tank or few hours of operation.

 

[MofoG23]

Even though my manual says high octane, my Stihl was recommended to run regular and 50:1, bring it back after two tanks to test carb settings.

Who recommended this? My shop was very clear on running "high test" in both my 361 and BG86 when I bought them. The manual and their shop mechanic supported this statement.

 

[LLigetfa]

Run it like you stole it.

 

[Tony H]

Look in the manual and run the fuel they list . The 361 manual says 50-1 with mid grade fuel (89 octane) is recommended for your saw.
No reason to run anything different lesser gas will run too lean and higher gas will run too rich and messing with the mix is a bad idea all the way around.
Keep in mind octane rating is nothing more than AKI the anti knock index rating for the fuel. Back in the old days premium fuel had extra detergent not included in other gas mixtures however now all fuels have the same mix in fact a number of newer stations only have 2 different tanks of fuel and the midgrade is a onsite mix of the standard and premium. Go and do a little research and you will find even the experts from the big oil companies say using fuel with an AKI rating above what is required for the engine will "not really get you anything".
With all our interest in burning wood to save fuel it seems a shame to give some back by listening to the old hype that higher octane gas is better and buying more than we need.
Only buy the high test for an engine that can use it .

 

[billb3]

Even though my manual says high octane, my Stihl was recommended to run regular and 50:1, bring it back after two tanks to test carb settings.

Who recommended this? My shop was very clear on running "high test" in both my 361 and BG86 when I bought them. The manual and their shop mechanic supported this statement.

Georgie's Power Equipment.
also Beacon Lumber who bought them, but after a coupla major screw-ups by them I never went back.
All the Stihl places around here (Honda equipment, too) are gone (before the recession, too)
The last Stihl guy that's close kinda tells ya what you want to hear.
This is for a 026PRO and that's an older saw and quite possibly older advice.
The reason then was for heat.
Until last year, still had the original plug.
I haven't burned it up.


Only repair has been a cracked carburetor hose nipple.

 

[gizmos]

Very good information. I've never had new saws before. They have always been old hammy downs. Thanks to everyone who responded. Can't wait for this weekend and break it in
Thanks again
Mark

 

[Flapjack23]

lesser gas will run too lean and higher gas will run too rich

Hows that work? 1 gallon gas+2.6 OZ oil= 50:1 mix

Andy

 

[i3bpvh]

Empty out the gas tank when you're done and won't be using it for a while. (I don't know if the same is necessary for the bar oil.)

On my 290 the manual says to fill the bar oil reservoir when storing.