How to get minimal smoke?

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neverbilly

Burning Hunk
Dec 27, 2015
177
Arkansas, USA
Let's say that ideally-seasoned oak is 2 yrs old? And that smoke is not a problem. What about as it gets older; does smoke increase? Is there an optimum moisture content that provides the least amount of smoke?

Are there any tricks of the trade to minimize smoke in your house?
 
If anything . . . assuming you are burning correctly in an EPA stove . . . the older the wood gets the drier it becomes and in theory should produce less smoke . . . assuming of course that it doesn't become too dry to burn efficiently . . . which is quite rare to see.
 
Smoke in one's home is typically due to an improperly drafting chimney -- often the chimney is not tall enough, there is too much of a restriction which effectively hampers the draft (i.e. too many elbows, clogged cap or too much creosote in the chimney), etc. The other possibility is a down draft caused when the temp inside and outside are pretty close to each other -- I often see this in early Fall and late Spring.

It is quite rare to have smoke spill out of my stove other than the occasional down draft situation I mentioned . . . although I did have it happen this morning when I had the fire going and then decided to wipe some soot off the "glass" on the front . . . should have just left it alone and cleaned it later . . . but I am sometimes impatient. Even then though there was very little smoke that escaped.
 
Trick is to get the stack up to temp as SOON as possible. That way the venture effect pulls the smoke where it is supposed to go. Into the chimney.
 
Trick is to get the stack up to temp as SOON as possible. That way the venture effect pulls the smoke where it is supposed to go. Into the chimney.

Say, do they make any kind of fan to boost/augment the draw inside a chimney or stove vent? Even a manual switch one could activate to get the fire going?
 
An observation over the years.... (and from many posts here)
Assuming a properly drafting stack and stove, if you are getting smoke from the stove, you are opening it up too soon. During the coaling stages there is very little smoke to spill out. And really - using the batch burn process there is no reason to be opening a stove prior to the coaling stage. Leave that door closed - just walk away.;)
 
Say, do they make any kind of fan to boost/augment the draw inside a chimney or stove vent? Even a manual switch one could activate to get the fire going?
Yes, but generally they are a last ditch effort to cure the problem. There are better alternatives that should be tried first. If the wood is truly dry and a kindling fire is still hard to start without smoke spilling it is either a flue problem or a stove location problem. The first issue can sometimes be addressed by pre-warming the chimney, extending the chimney, reducing the number of turns in the smoke path, and minimizing horizontal runs if there are any. The second issue can be negative pressure in the room. If this is the case opening a nearby window a crack often will help the stove start and burn better. The long term solution is to add an OAK, seal up upper floor leaks in attic doors, ceiling lights etc.. and reduce competition from exhaust fans and competing appliances like a furnace or a gas/oil HW heater.
 
I usually open the air all the way for a minute or two. Then I slowly open the door about 2 inches. This makes the fire change it's behavior for about 10 seconds and I can see the smoke rolling right at the top edge of the opening. In another few seconds, the fire changes behavior again and the smoke gets pulled up into chimney. At this point I can open the door all the way.

Best thing to do is what Jags suggested - wait for the coaling stage and the smoke will be minimal.
 
What type of chimney do you have? If most of your chimney is outside, you might not realize your draft is not as good as you think. You also might benefit from a moisture meter for firewood. I have learned that keeping a few days of firewood inside, that will allow the wood to get up to room temperature.
 
I don't burn yet, but will be next winter in our new to us home. The current owner went thru his fall startup with me, and he uses a heat gun, pointed up in a T, to get the pipe warm enough to draw good. Seemed genius to me. Maybe it's common practice, but it was even easier than holding burning paper up to get the draft going.
 
Let's say that ideally-seasoned oak is 2 yrs old? And that smoke is not a problem. What about as it gets older; does smoke increase? Is there an optimum moisture content that provides the least amount of smoke?

Are there any tricks of the trade to minimize smoke in your house?
IMHO smoke in your house is a result of draft and nothing more
 
Don't try to load your stove with the damper 7/8 closed;lol I am getting better, I promise.
 
If anything . . . assuming you are burning correctly in an EPA stove . . . the older the wood gets the drier it becomes and in theory should produce less smoke . . . assuming of course that it doesn't become too dry to burn efficiently . . . which is quite rare to see.

...too dry to burn efficiently... Can you elaborate on that? I didn't think wood could be too dry.
 
Bfitz . . . some folks say it is possible that wood can be too dry so that it burns so quickly that it doesn't burn as cleanly or efficiently as normal. That said . . . most folks also say that normally seasoned wood in most places would not reach that point.
 
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And to add to FFJ....the same reason that virtually every manual states "no kiln dried dimensional lumber".
 
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