What to do if you break off the screw heads that attach the rear fiberboard (434-0660) to the baffle back plate (434-0370).
Despite using penetrating oil on the screws I broke off the screw heads. Damn. I brainstormed how to fix without drilling and tapping new holes. Came up with this solution.
Read procedure BEFORE proceeding to make sure you understand. It is crucial that you hacksaw items to correct length or this will not work.
1. Remove baffle back plate from stove. Mine lifted out easily. I noticed dried furnace cement on mine so yours might not come out as easily.
2. Hacksaw off screws leaving 3 or 4 threads protruding bottom of the plate. (Screws have 20 threads per inch.) Less than 3 is not enough; more than 5 is too much.
3. At hardware store buy:
5. Use a drill to enlarge the holes on the new fiberboard to fit around the coupling nuts. Be gentle; fiberboard is fragile.
6. Place fiberboard with enlarged holes onto baffle back plate over coupling nuts. Check for proper position and no overhang; it mustn't interfere with the rotating baffle. Enlarge holes if needed. When satisfied, proceed to next step.
7. With fiberboard in place, use a magic marker to mark the side of the coupling nuts even with the top of the fiberboard.
8. Remove fiberboard from plate.
9. Hacksaw off coupling nuts at mark. Since fiberboard is 1/2" thick the coupling nuts should be no more than 1/2".
10. Replace fiberboard again. Coupling nuts should not protrude above fiberboard.
11. Attach new screws and washers into coupling nuts. You should be able to turn screws at least 3 turns before they reach the original screws at other end of coupling nuts; any less than 3 turns is not secure. However, these new screws will be too long to tighten against fiberboard. Remove screws and hacksaw off to correct length, enough to tighten at least 3 turns against washers and hold fiberboard secure. Again, not too tight as fiberboard is fragile.
12. With new fiberboard secure, replace baffle back plate in stove.
I did this and fired up the stove. It works great, I can see the rearmost air tube behind the back baffle plate burning up those evil gases as it should.
Despite using penetrating oil on the screws I broke off the screw heads. Damn. I brainstormed how to fix without drilling and tapping new holes. Came up with this solution.
Read procedure BEFORE proceeding to make sure you understand. It is crucial that you hacksaw items to correct length or this will not work.
1. Remove baffle back plate from stove. Mine lifted out easily. I noticed dried furnace cement on mine so yours might not come out as easily.
2. Hacksaw off screws leaving 3 or 4 threads protruding bottom of the plate. (Screws have 20 threads per inch.) Less than 3 is not enough; more than 5 is too much.
3. At hardware store buy:
2 coupling nuts (1/4" x 20)
2 SS bolts (1/4" x 20 x 1")
2 large washers (I was able to re-use the original bowl shaped washers)
4. Screw coupling nuts onto protruding screws you hacked off in step 2. Tighten until coupling nuts are snug against plate; not too tight.2 SS bolts (1/4" x 20 x 1")
2 large washers (I was able to re-use the original bowl shaped washers)
5. Use a drill to enlarge the holes on the new fiberboard to fit around the coupling nuts. Be gentle; fiberboard is fragile.
6. Place fiberboard with enlarged holes onto baffle back plate over coupling nuts. Check for proper position and no overhang; it mustn't interfere with the rotating baffle. Enlarge holes if needed. When satisfied, proceed to next step.
7. With fiberboard in place, use a magic marker to mark the side of the coupling nuts even with the top of the fiberboard.
8. Remove fiberboard from plate.
9. Hacksaw off coupling nuts at mark. Since fiberboard is 1/2" thick the coupling nuts should be no more than 1/2".
10. Replace fiberboard again. Coupling nuts should not protrude above fiberboard.
11. Attach new screws and washers into coupling nuts. You should be able to turn screws at least 3 turns before they reach the original screws at other end of coupling nuts; any less than 3 turns is not secure. However, these new screws will be too long to tighten against fiberboard. Remove screws and hacksaw off to correct length, enough to tighten at least 3 turns against washers and hold fiberboard secure. Again, not too tight as fiberboard is fragile.
12. With new fiberboard secure, replace baffle back plate in stove.
I did this and fired up the stove. It works great, I can see the rearmost air tube behind the back baffle plate burning up those evil gases as it should.
