Huskee 22 ton splitter not running right

[Trilifter7]

I have a 22 ton splitter that is a few years old now and am starting to have problems with it. Earlier in the season I had the spring break that goes from the gov to the throttle lever. Now it seems that it has a bad gov. I can't get it to start unless I manually close or choke the butterfly to the carb and once it's running it never seems to go to full throttle. The pump really struggles when I try to split an average 8-10" round and if I push the gov forward it revs up to full throttle but then idles back down when I let go. Anyone else have this problem or experience something like this? It's a Briggs & Stratton engine and only a few years old. One problem I could be dealing with is that fact that I transport it a lot. I would still think it should be able to hold up though. Any thoughts?

 

[Halligan]

By your description I'm guessing your having some carburator issues. Do you store the splitter with untreated gas in it? Most gas sold today has ethanol in it which wreaks havoc on small engines. Even gas that's 30 days old can be no good. My suggestion is if you have the mechanical ability, disasemble the carburator and clean it.

 

[Trilifter7]

By your description I'm guessing your having some carburator issues. Do you store the splitter with untreated gas in it? Most gas sold today has ethanol in it which wreaks havoc on small engines. Even gas that's 30 days old can be no good. My suggestion is if you have the mechanical ability, disasemble the carburator and clean it.

I thought that to at first. I cleaned the carb up, nothing wrong there. I also installed an online filter. The problem is that the butterfly doesn't move with the throttle lever. I checked the parts breakdown and all the springs are there and attached. It seems to be that the gov isn't releasing and pulling the butterfly shut. I can manually push it shut though and it starts right up. Then once it's running I can manually push it open and it revs up but then returns to a half idle when I let go. The gov seems to respond to load from the pump too, I just don't think it's working correctly.

 

[basod]

The spring that was replaced is the correct one? and it was installed in the correct holes. Most governor arms have a few holes. If the throttle lever won't move the (I hope we are talking about the downstream butterfly and not the choke) than the spring is not tensioned correctly - wrong spring or wrong hole
A picture of the linkage might help here

 

[MasterMech]

I thought that to at first. I cleaned the carb up, nothing wrong there. I also installed an online filter. The problem is that the butterfly doesn't move with the throttle lever. I checked the parts breakdown and all the springs are there and attached. It seems to be that the gov isn't releasing and pulling the butterfly shut. I can manually push it shut though and it starts right up. Then once it's running I can manually push it open and it revs up but then returns to a half idle when I let go. The gov seems to respond to load from the pump too, I just don't think it's working correctly.

When you push the throttle open and the engine revs up, do you feel the governor attempt to close the throttle? If not, the governor gear/spool inside the sump may be damaged or the clamp that holds the arm to the governor shaft may have loosened up on you, rendering the governor ineffective. To reset the governor (clamp), loosen the clamp and hold the throttle linkage at WOT. Turn the governor shaft in the same direction that that arm moves to hold the throttle open, as far as it will go without excessive force. Then while continuing to hold the throttle open, tighten the clamp. You should now be able to move the throttle linkage throughout it's entire range of motion without any binding.

The fact that it revs good when you pull the throttle open tells me the carburetor is most likely fine.

 

[Trilifter7]

The spring that was replaced is the correct one? and it was installed in the correct holes. Most governor arms have a few holes. If the throttle lever won't move the (I hope we are talking about the downstream butterfly and not the choke) than the spring is not tensioned correctly - wrong spring or wrong hole
A picture of the linkage might help here

I'll try to get a pic later today but I'm pretty sure it's the right spring hooked up in the right spots. I've talked to Briggs about this and even had them send me diagrams of it.

When you push the throttle open and the engine revs up, do you feel the governor attempt to close the throttle? If not, the governor gear/spool inside the sump may be damaged or the clamp that holds the arm to the governor shaft may have loosened up on you, rendering the governor ineffective. To reset the governor (clamp), loosen the clamp and hold the throttle linkage at WOT. Turn the governor shaft in the same direction that that arm moves to hold the throttle open, as far as it will go without excessive force. Then while continuing to hold the throttle open, tighten the clamp. You should now be able to move the throttle linkage throughout it's entire range of motion without any binding.

The fact that it revs good when you pull the throttle open tells me the carburetor is most likely fine.

I'll check the position of the clamp and make sure but I know it is tight. It is possible that it could have moved though. I will loosen it and reposition it like you said and see. As far as feeling it pull I don't think it does when I push it open. I'll check later today and let you guys know what I find. Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[smokinj]

You use the right spring?

 

[lukem]

The problem is that the butterfly doesn't move with the throttle lever.

That sounds like a throttle linkage problem to me.

 

[MasterMech]

That sounds like a throttle linkage problem to me.

Yeah, now that I'm awake and thinkin' a governor issue usually results in an overspeed. Most engines with a governor setup like his will default to WOT if the engine isn't running. Does the Huskee splitter have a user controlled throttle lever for engine speed or is it a fixed setting?

 

[lukem]

Operator controlled engine speed. Throttle acts as choke and kill too.

 

[Trilifter7]

Yeah, now that I'm awake and thinkin' a governor issue usually results in an overspeed. Most engines with a governor setup like his will default to WOT if the engine isn't running. Does the Huskee splitter have a user controlled throttle lever for engine speed or is it a fixed setting?

Yep, that's exactly what it's doing. With it off and just sitting there the throttle stays wide open while the throttle lever is on low or even off. Everything Is hooked up and all the linkage is in place. To start it I can shut the butterfly by pulling back on the lever going to the governor, which closes the gov and butterfly. Once it's started I can let go and it runs but it's not strong sounding. You can see the gov vary the throttle when you move the wedge up or down but it seems really slow and about like half throttle when the throttle lever is in WOT. I can do the opposite from starting then and push the gov linkage forward which opens the butterfly and gov and the engine revs up and sounds strong. As soon as I let go it idles back down to what seems like half throttle again. I'm thinking it is a bad gov

 

[Trilifter7]

Now that i read what I just typed I might try adjusting the gov clamp. Since the gov does respond to engine load it almost seems like the gov is just out of position. But then again it is odd that the butterfly is in WOT position when off and won't go to full throttle when running.

 

[biggkidd]

I work on small eng for a living. It has slipped on the gov shaft like some one suggested. Actually happenes a lot. Put a 3/16 socket on shaft open throttle all the way then rotate socket by hand till it stops and tighten clamp arm back down. Then test run. Make sure its not over speeding. You can then use the spring holes to fine tune it. Most single cyl engs are set up for 3600 but some larger ones are lower 2600-3150 rpm.

Larry

 

[Trilifter7]

I work on small eng for a living. It has slipped on the gov shaft like some one suggested. Actually happenes a lot. Put a 3/16 socket on shaft open throttle all the way then rotate socket by hand till it stops and tighten clamp arm back down. Then test run. Make sure its not over speeding. You can then use the spring holes to fine tune it. Most single cyl engs are set up for 3600 but some larger ones are lower 2600-3150 rpm.

Larry

Thanks for the advice Larry! I've been busy at work so I have not been able to look at it yet but I should have some time tomorrow. I'll let ya know if that works.

 

[biggkidd]

I forgot to mention turn it the same direcion as it swings for wide open throtle. Be gental the govenor is PLASTIC !
Larry

 

[Trilifter7]

I forgot to mention turn it the same direcion as it swings for wide open throtle. Be gental the govenor is PLASTIC !
Larry

Good to know. And you didn't mention but I'm assuming I loosen the gov clamp first? then turn the shaft with the 3/16 socket then tighten the clamp and hope it runs!

 

[biggkidd]

Good to know. And you didn't mention but I'm assuming I loosen the gov clamp first? then turn the shaft with the 3/16 socket then tighten the clamp and hope it runs!

My bad i thought that would be assumed. Should run just fine do a few every season. Had one last week that went the other way from yours guy kept running it way to fast until the gov flew apart. He was lucky thats all that flew apart!

Thanks
Larry

 

[Trilifter7]

Thanks for the help Larry, Got the splitter running today. Adjusting the gov did the trick. The engine sounded fine but after running it for about 30 minutes it started chugging down and running rough. I looked at the throttle and the gov was idling it down then back up. Under load when the pump was running it ran smooth but every time it sat it started chugging again. Any thoughts?

 

[biggkidd]

Thanks for the help Larry, Got the splitter running today. Adjusting the gov did the trick. The engine sounded fine but after running it for about 30 minutes it started chugging down and running rough. I looked at the throttle and the gov was idling it down then back up. Under load when the pump was running it ran smooth but every time it sat it started chugging again. Any thoughts?

What shape is the oil in? Has it been a while since chaging? Did you tighten the clamp snugly? Honestly sounds like it could be two seperate problems. May need to pull the carb down & clean it good. What modlel eng is it? Some of the carbs are pretty wild with plastic parts. The ten hp briggs comes to mind with its wagon wheel o ring type gasket. I would try pulling the air filter assembly first and making sure the filter is not full of oil. Then bend the metal tang infront of the ventori back enough to get a rag or plastic bag in there. Start the eng set it up high rpm then block the ventori until it almost cuts off remove block let it catch back up and repeat 3 or 4 times. If you have small trash this will often pull it through. One other thing to try first is moving the govenor spring a notch or two both ways it my be fighting itself when no load is on.
Let me know. If none of that works n ill scratch my head some more n see what else i can come up with.
Good luck
Larry

 

[Trilifter7]

What shape is the oil in? Has it been a while since chaging? Did you tighten the clamp snugly? Honestly sounds like it could be two seperate problems. May need to pull the carb down & clean it good. What modlel eng is it? Some of the carbs are pretty wild with plastic parts. The ten hp briggs comes to mind with its wagon wheel o ring type gasket. I would try pulling the air filter assembly first and making sure the filter is not full of oil. Then bend the metal tang infront of the ventori back enough to get a rag or plastic bag in there. Start the eng set it up high rpm then block the ventori until it almost cuts off remove block let it catch back up and repeat 3 or 4 times. If you have small trash this will often pull it through. One other thing to try first is moving the govenor spring a notch or two both ways it my be fighting itself when no load is on.
Let me know. If none of that works n ill scratch my head some more n see what else i can come up with.
Good luck
Larry

The oil could be changed but its not too bad. The clamp is good and tight. Carb is good and the air filter is clean. The engine is the Briggs 6.75 hp. It has the plastic shield in front of the carb opening. I'll change the oil and make a few checks and let you know.