Resistive heaters. It’s the backup heat for an all electric house and they come on during defrost cycle to keep from blowing fridges air into the house.Not to sound too ignorant, but what are heat strips? Never come across such a thing around here.
Maybe the 200 amps is enough, but my 20-space/40-circuit panel is TOTALLY full. So if I'm gonna replace the panel, might as well use a 225-amp one (my stuff is all Siemens, and 225 is the biggest single-phase one they have, I beieve). Since the house was built, I've done all this: switched from propane water heater to TWO electric ones, added a shipping container workshop with its own little subpanel, added a 40amp EV charger, added a generator inlet, add a minisplit.200 amps is plenty (dare I say, overkill) for most single family homes. Rarely does anyone actually need a 400A service.
Installing a heat pump does not necessitate heat strips. They are one option. But if you have propane you can continue to use the propane as your backup heat.
I REALLY hate propane. Would love to put it in the rearview. It's expensive and the companies are kinda sleazy with the pricing.If you have 200 amp service heat strips won’t require service upgrade. New panel. Or panel reorg sure. I’d just add a 100 amp sub panel for strips and heatpump and a car charger.
I’ve watched my peak loads. Biggest draw that could ever happen would be heat strips( 40 real amp’s) compressor another 20 and my steam generator another 35 add 40 for a car charger because you forgot and 20 more for base load of the house. Total 155 amp.Maybe the 200 amps is enough, but my 20-space/40-circuit panel is TOTALLY full. So if I'm gonna replace the panel, might as well use a 225-amp one (my stuff is all Siemens, and 225 is the biggest single-phase one they have, I beieve). Since the house was built, I've done all this: switched from propane water heater to TWO electric ones, added a shipping container workshop with its own little subpanel, added a 40amp EV charger, added a generator inlet, add a minisplit.
POCO says my transformer and wiring is good for 225 amps, but AHJ wondered if you can get a 225 amp meter socket. But elsewhere I've read that it's ok to use a 200-amp meter socket with 225-amp panel, because the max rating of most 200-amp meter sockets is 250 amp, and you don't have to consider the meter socket as continuous. So I need to clarify that.
I'm a little intimidated by meter swap, but also pretty confident I can pull it off. I'll just be extra slow and careful, so I imagine I'll take a few days, and the wife will not be happy. But that's ok
I REALLY hate propane. Would love to put it in the rearview. It's expensive and the companies are kinda sleazy with the pricing.
They can. Because it's 20-space/40-circuit. And in fact every slot IS a space-saver.Check your Siemens panel that all slots can use space saver.
As an engineer who believes "the product of engineering is documentation", I've been doing what you describe for years.Second, make yourself a spreadsheet in Excel or similar, and enter all of the crap you'd normally try (but fail) to write in the too-small spaces in the door of the panel. Then format it to the same size, print it, and paste it over the hand-written portion of the label on the door.
Also, whenever I rearrange, as I just did for upgrading "Panel C" and installing "Panel G", it's a simple matter of re-printing and pasting over the old label, rather than crossing out and using whiteout to re-label your panel door.
Yes you need a box. And you're exactly right. Basically they want every ceiling outlet location to be able to support a fan if an idiot comes along and installs one. Note that in 2020 NEC you can use a regular box if it "provides access to structural framing." But the little 3 tab old-work boxes are not allowed unless the location is not suitable for a fan (e.g. within 3 feet of a wall).So you still need a box, right ? But it needn't be a fan box, if the bolts for the fan mounting bracket go through the box into structure ?
314.27(C) Boxes at Ceiling-Suspended (Paddle) Fan Outlets. Outlet boxes or outlet box systems used as the sole support of a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan shall be listed, shall be marked by their manufacturer as suitable for this purpose, and shall not support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 32 kg (70 lb). For outlet boxes or outlet box systems designed to support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 16 kg (35 lb), the required marking shall include the maximum weight to be supported.
Outlet boxes mounted in the ceilings of habitable rooms of dwelling occupancies in a location acceptable for the installation of a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan shall comply with one of the following:
(1) Listed for the sole support of ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans
(2) An outlet box complying with the applicable requirements of 314.27 and providing access to structural framing capable of supporting of a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan bracket or equivalent
every fan that i have put up says to install a fan box in different words. i've put up fans that are questionable they are so heavy. some of the old hunter fans if you use a box it would have to be a pancake box because they are mounted via a hook and getting a wire to them is toughAnd yet, a fan does not require fan box if it is secured directly to structure. But if you are not installing a fan then you have to use a fan box.