I built my best fire yet...

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Cearbhaill

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Nov 15, 2007
356
The deep end
... which isn't saying much as I have only been burning two weeks :lol:

I had read something here mentioning the "top down" method of fire building and thought it sounded like a good challenge. I could find no specifics on the method so kind of just assumed it meant laying wood in an arrangement where the kindling was atop the larger logs and once started the fire could progress downwards without the frequent stoking.

Well I tried it and it worked beautifully. The building of the stack was interesting and as I had no idea what I was doing I just tried to lay it so that each stage would ignite the next. I use one stick of fatwood and dried up pieces of bark to start my fires, then had thin pieces of wood underneath, then small splits underneath that, and two large splits on the very bottom.
Is that how it goes?

Once I lit my fatwood and closed the door I did not have to open it again for five hours. I watched it closely and of course slowed down the air intake once it got up to temp but otherwise it was a hands off evening.
I was very pleased with myself :coolsmile:

I am finding this initial learning process to be fascinating. But I have noticed that my fires do much better if I tend them by instinct rather than by my new thermometer that I bought because you guys said to. There is nowhere good on my insert to put the thing and I thought my fire got much too hot way before it indicated it was in the overfiring zone. You can just kind of tell when it is time to damper it down.... right?

The thermometer is currently on the face of the insert directly above the door. My door gasket is amazingly thick so the bottom of the thermometer slips a tad behind the doors upper edge nicely. But I have to wonder exactly what temp I am measuring as it looks to me as if it would just read the "front of the insert" temperature.

But I digress.
I am mainly just bragging about my newbie fire building skills :)
And now that I've said that I'll probably take half an hour to get one going tonight.
 
Nice work,

Five hours on start-up is excellent, I have the same insert and mine won't go that long, although my big splits are not seasoned yet. The seasoned stuff I have was for my older much smaller stove and its was split small and burns up quickly. I put the thermometer above the door in the right hand corner but not too far over as to cross the joint there. I dont use temp too much either as far as damping down but I make sure I dont reload her when she's still hot. I let the coals go till she's down to the 350-400 deg range on the thermometer. My fan kicks on at 300 deg and thats when I start getting good heat out of her so I dont let her drop below that for reload. Good job.!
 
Top Down is the only way to go...no mus no fus.
 
Well- I am fortunate to have gotten hold of some very dry oak that was from a huge tree, so my large splits are literally so large they barely fit inside the insert. I measured the firebox, then cut a 2x4 to size and gave it to the husband to measure with when cutting the wood. I have to chuckle every time I see him hold that 2x4 up to a round to see if it needs further trimming to fit, but it did work.

All the wood used in this fire was oak- if I am not mistaken that's all I have. I do not know the species, but locally we have pretty much pin, white, shumard, and red.
 
I read about that also..will have to try it...I built the fire tonight when i got home and it pretty much didn't work at all...I had to redo it. I think that i am trying to rush my fire building to much. Also not having all my kindling sized properly is not good.

I keep getting smoke puffing back into the house when i am starting up the stove or whenever i open the door to add wood. It stinks...and tonight i filled the kitchen with smoke...good thing the wife wasn't home or i would have not heard the end of it...good thing we have doors on all the rooms (1806 colonial)...

Stew
 
I don't know what to call our method but it works great without any issues. We use 2 small logs (2"in diam approx), put them about 8-10 in apart running North to south from the air intake. We then wad up some newspaper and place them it in the center between the logs, then we take about 4 -6 pieces of kindling across the logs (think of a wood raft). Then we take 2 nice pieces of split wood on top of the kindling. Light hte newspaper, the kindling starts up, the airflow underneath after the paper burns keeps a nice airflow through the wood to get hte fire going good. After that it's easy to keep going and only need to stoke as needed when we add more wood. After 20min of the initial burn we then close down the damper, once the thermometer on the stove reaches 400F we then close down the air to about 75% and we are set for the evening.
 
Wood heat.org has a good article on building a top down fire also.
 
For my first month of woodburning I've had a number of successful starts - and a number of duds - whether conventional or top down. I'm learning from each and am improving. ie learning to use smaller, dry kindling, small splits, etc. On the other hand my set up works great when refueling and using the coals. Most of the time, even with few live coals, I can put in a couple of splits, close the door, give it full air and before long, the draft begins to pull flames. Watching that happen is better than most of what's on TV.
 
So far I have had only one "dud" build and it was because I was cold and in a hurry. And you're right- I learn something new every time I start it up.

Which I am ITCHING to do but we're going to hit 70ºF today. The heck?
And here I was worried about being able to tolerate cold weather and now I am praying for it!
What's next? Dogs and cats living together...
 
bcnu said:
Most of the time, even with few live coals, I can put in a couple of splits, close the door, give it full air and before long, the draft begins to pull flames. Watching that happen is better than most of what's on TV.

I couldn't agree more....:)
 
Cearbhaill said:
Well- I am fortunate to have gotten hold of some very dry oak that was from a huge tree, so my large splits are literally so large they barely fit inside the insert. I measured the firebox, then cut a 2x4 to size and gave it to the husband to measure with when cutting the wood. I have to chuckle every time I see him hold that 2x4 up to a round to see if it needs further trimming to fit, but it did work.

All the wood used in this fire was oak- if I am not mistaken that's all I have. I do not know the species, but locally we have pretty much pin, white, shumard, and red.

Minor suggestion for hubby...

1. It is usually best if the rounds are cut to about 2" shorter than the max that will fit in the firebox - this allows a bit easier loading, better air circulation for the fire, and more "slop" for cutting allowances. Remember that having to make a "trim" cut is a significant waste of wood.

2. When cutting you can save much time if you learn how to use the chainsaw as a measuring tool. Measure from the tip of the bar back and either make a mark or notice a prominent feature on the saw (I.E on my Poulan w/ a 12" bar, my 18" cut distance is right where the side cover ends) Then hold the saw parallel to the log with the tip (or the mark) at the edge of the previous cut, and use that to spot the next cut point (I look for a flaw in the bark, etc to mark my target spot...) Doing it this way, I target 18", and 95% of my rounds are between 17" and 19", unless I shift my cut to put a knot in a better place for splitting.

Gooserider
 
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