I cant get my Napolean 1900p to shut down...

[begreen]

Excellent point Peter! Rapidly shutting down the fire in any stove at the early outgassing stage risks a large accumulation of unburnt gases in the firebox. When this ignites, the explosion can be quite dramatic to say the least. Not a good idea.

 

[Peter B.]

After rereading this thread (and posting above), I thought I'd add the following...

In different posts, rumme wrote:

>When I push my air inlet control all the way in, there still are flames going on until the wood burns out.

>I have had the air inlet all the way closed for about 2 hours now , and there still is a flame inside the woodstove.

>I beleive that both primary and secondary intakes are feed via the same air inlet cutout underneath the front of the stove.

If, as rumme appears to think, (effectively) *all* intake air is cut off by his modified intake control, I very much doubt open flame would be sustained.

I said "probably" above, but almost without question, the primary and secondary supplies are separate, or there is a supplemental secondary supply that rumme is unaware of, or the window airwash actually provides enough air to sustain the fire.

I very much doubt - even with the added flue damper - rumme would be able to 'shut down' this stove... at least not in short order... and not without other (possible) consequences.

But I could easily be wrong...

Peter B.

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[rumme]

yes...it now seems that this stove has to be pulling intake air from somehwere else, because when I fully close the air intake cutout, the fire still is quite strong for as long as wood is in the stove. I will have to call the mnaufacturer and ask them is there is another area that feeds intake ait into the stove. By the way, I am not having any problems with smoke coming into the house..even when I open the woodstove door to put wood in it.

 

[rumme]

Shutting down implies a complete stop of heat and fire. This is rarely why someone would burn wood. Wood stoves are not an on/off appliances. However, reducing intensity for a longer burn (like overnight) is definitely a good goal for any stove. The old way of the smoke dragon stoves required the user to "crack open the air" a little bit to achieve similar results, but with a whole lot more smoldering and smoke. That means cool smoke which condenses on the flue and causes creosote deposits. Newer stoves try to mitigate this issue and burn cleaner and hotter. You've got a nice stove that burns way cleaner and with less wood. Learn to use it by the manual's directions and I think you will grow to like it.

"For maximum efficiency, when the stove is thoroughly hot,
load it fully to the top of the door opening and burn at a medium
low setting. Maximum heat for minium fuel (optimum
burn) occurs when the stove top temperature beneath the
trivet is between 500°F (260°C) and 600°F (315°C). The bricks
will be nearly all white and the glass mostly clear. The whiteness
of the bricks and the cleanness of the glass are good
indicators of your operating efficiency. Not enough heat is
produced when only one or two pieces of wood are burned or
the wood may not burn completely. A minimum of three pieces
are needed to encase a bed of coals that sustains the fire.




Loosely stacked wood burns quicker than a tightly packed
load. Wood burns in cycles rather than giving a steady output
of heat. It is best to plan these cycles around your household
routine so that only enough coals are left to start the next load.
In the evening, load your stove, at least, a half-hour before
bed to ensure a good fire, hot enough to close the draft control
for an overnight burn. Burn only dry seasoned wood."

for me, when I say " shutting down the stove " I am just talking about having the ability to shut the flames down, within afew minute time period. I certainly understand that a person cannot eliminate all the heat generated by a woodstove, in a moments notice, by shutting down the air supply...and thats not my mission. I am just shocked that my unit does not allow the user to shut down the air supply, completely enough, to stop the flames within the woodstove itself.


Ive built aLMOST A half a dozen woodstoves in the past..out of hot water heaters, beer kegs, 55 gallon drums, etc....and all of my home built units, allowed me to do a shutdonw of the fire/flames very quickly, via stopping air flow .

im shocked these $1400 woodstoves dont allow the same feature

 

[rumme]

oh, and I noticed some people recomeending that wet newspaper deal to shut a fire down quickly if needed. I use a different method in my shop. I always have a 1 gallon plastic milk jug with water filled about 3/4 of the way. I can then toss the whole container in the woodtove and the plastic will melt quickly and disperse the water.

 

[southland]

I already mentioned 3 reasons for needing to shut the stove completely down, quickly, and easily..

emergencys ;

having to leave ones home unexpectedyl and not wanting to let the stove run for hours with no one home to monitor it

going to bed...

I'm burning my stove 24/7 right now. A propertly designed, installed, and maintained wood stove should always be safe to burn. My wife and I both work, and we fill it up each morning before leaving and each night before going to bed. I really don't see a need to ever stop the fire quickly. That being said, I do have mutiple fire alarms/carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers for general safety (not just because I have a wood stove).

 

[BrotherBart]

im shocked these $1400 woodstoves dont allow the same feature

If the flames could be completely stopped they would never be able to pass the EPA emissions test and therefore they could not sell the stoves. During the EPA testing the primary air control has to be closed completely down without smoldering the wood load.