I hate to ask, but I think I have a draft problem.

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burnout

Member
Oct 21, 2011
68
Westchester, New York
After searching the forum and gathering helpful hints from here and there, I would like to confirm that I have draft issues with someone besides the guy who installed the stove.

I just bought a Vermont Castings Defiant 1975 catalytic stove in brown enamel. A really nice stove. Unfortunately, I don't think the guy who installed it is a certified dealer(we got him through the contractor), and I am not sure he knows what he is doing despite his assurance that he has 25 years experience. I tried to contact VC directly, but all they have to say is talk to your dealer, this is why I am here.

6" double walled pipe was used. The book says I need 16' of draft. After essentially begging him to put more pipe on, he has installed another 3' double walled for a grand total of 13.5' of pipe height. He says this is sufficient. There are two 90 degree bends in the pipe to bring that effective total down to 3.5'. It did seem to make it a little better, though.

He told me to run with the ash pan open.(not happening) and then completely told me the opposite the following week.

The wood I have been using is three year old seasoned wood that does not feel wet or look it when I chop it small. (no meter)

I admit it has been 50 to 60F outside when lighting.

Symptoms:

I cant seem to open the top door or even the front doors more than says 4" or so without smoke rolling into the room. I have to quickly open and shut the doors to minimize the smoke that gets into the room and only load smaller pieces. (I have tried doing it slowly as well, same)

Going to catalytic mode has given me mixed results, twice it has burned for a really long time, 14 hours plus without loading, a couple other times it has just gone out. Catalytic was engaged at 600F top griddle temperature and will dip below shortly after.

The doors blacken up no matter what kind wood I put into it. (I have old and new)

The fire burns brightly if I open the ash pan or front doors a crack. But will produce no flame if they are closed. Only coals.

Using the damper control does essentially nothing.

If there is no fire there is always a constant down draft, which I think may have contributed to the next one...

I had a fire the other night, I buttoned it up in catalytic mode. It burned all night and stayed warm all day without loading it. I then opened the flue up to bypass the cat and let it all go up the chimney because it was way too cold for the cat. At about 4 am or so, the entire house filled with smoke despite not filling it for a day.

The stove pipe is not exactly level where it flattens out. It actually pitches up back to the stove a little, instead of up the chimney.

From what I figure, I should be able to open the doors wide and have no smoke come into the house, or maybe a whisp. Not rolls of smoke coming in. The only real experience I have with stoves is the old one we had as a kid. The name of it was "Airtight" but it was anything but. That thing was awesome and would get us roasty toasty warm, and I could load it without smoking up the house. I also had a pellet stove in more recent times.

I have done a lot of searching on these forums. Educating myself and I think I have determined the draft is the issue. Have been building the fires the way I am supposed to. Been trying little fires as well as packing it full.

I apologize if I am repeating posts. I would just like a little assurance that I am pushing this guy in the right direction and make sure I am not being the jerk by not doing it right. I guess what I am asking is if this stove makes my butt look big? And also does it sound like I have draft issues?
 
Welcome burnout, it sounds like you have hit the nail on the head. The stove pipe must pitch up continually toward the chimney. Horizontal runs should be short and pitched at least 1/4" per foot. The elbows aren't helping. This fellow sounds pretty full of himself and a bit incompetent.

Things will improve as the temps get colder, but it is going to be hard to get up on a snowy roof if not. Can you describe in detail the entire flue setup? I'm wondering if at least one 90 turn can be replaced with a more gentle rise using a couple 45's and a connector between. Pictures are always welcome.
 
What kind of contract do you have covering this project?

If he is not following the manual on chimney height, what about the specified clearances etc?
 
I would agree with Shane- sounds to me like you need to extend your pipe.
 
Yes, need to have a qualified sweep to look at your setup. I would let your dealer know your complaints with this other guy, maybe they will help.

Pictures, and the folks here can point you in the right direction. Shouldnt be to hard to fix, you can most likely do this yourself.

Good luck
 
Thanks for the quick and plentiful replies.

I will post pictures shortly.

There is no contract with this guy, he is working for my contractor. The clearances are good, and quite tight. 5" from any unprotected wall. Code in NY state says they have to have 18" in front of the stove and all is up to code for now. Only the pipe height is an issue, as well as getting a hold of him to come back.

He actually wanted to take the stove damper control apart to see if there are any issues, I gave him a red light on that. No need as of yet when there are easier solutions to look at first.

He also has stated that he wouldn't have chosen a cat stove and has told me to run without it. That kind of defeats the purpose of paying for it though, doesn't it?

Oh, one more symptom, I can see the smoke still coming out of the chimney in catalytic mode.

One 90 is a few feet above the stove, the other is the clean out on the outside of the house. Lemme see what I can do about pics...

As far as the dealer goes, he is the dealer.
 
burnout said:
Thanks for the quick and plentiful replies.

I will post pictures shortly.

There is no contract with this guy, he is working for my contractor. The clearances are good, and quite tight. 5" from any unprotected wall. Code in NY state says they have to have 18" in front of the stove and all is up to code for now. Only the pipe height is an issue, as well as getting a hold of him to come back.

He actually wanted to take the stove damper control apart to see if there are any issues, I gave him a red light on that. No need as of yet when there are easier solutions to look at first.

He also has stated that he wouldn't have chosen a cat stove and has told me to run without it. That kind of defeats the purpose of paying for it though, doesn't it?

Oh, one more symptom, I can see the smoke still coming out of the chimney in catalytic mode.

One 90 is a few feet above the stove, the other is the clean out on the outside of the house. Lemme see what I can do about pics...

As far as the dealer goes, he is the dealer.

I wouldn't run a cat stove w/o the cat either, basically turns it into an old smoke dragon. As soon as you get pics up these guys can give you some great advice and help you out for sure.
 
Here are those pics I promised.
 

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And these...

I just spoke with the guy again and he will be by sometime today and is going to put another length on the flue. It will be 16.5' now, 6.5 effective.

He denounced catalytic and renounced his allegiance to Vermont Castings yet again. He stated how finicky they are. I suppose if you don't install them right they are. Still, never a peep out of him when I bought the stove off of him in the first place.

In ay case, from the pics above, you can see I really don't want a monstrosity of a pipe coming out of my roof. Next step will be to have the contractor cut the ceiling like I asked him before the room was finished. It is a new addition and there are a lot of rafters running through the ceiling. He was hesitant about boxing it out but the architect came by and told him he could after the room was all done. $$$ I am sure.

Oh, note the floor tiles. My wife has such an eye for decorating.

Yes I know there is a fireplace grill there. It is to keep my kids from falling directly onto the stove when lit. Kind of a warning tract.
 

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joecool85 said:
Looks like your chimney is no where near tall enough. You need to have 2' taller than anything within 10' of the top of the stack. From the picture it's hard to tell but it looks like you might have half that clearance.

The guy did follow that rule. There is enough clearance. The side of the room is about 14 feet away from the house and is over 2 feet taller than the peak of the new roof.
 
Looks like you could replace the inside 90 with two 45s. It sure would have been nicer looking and given better draft if he went straight up.
Where in "Southern NY" are you? I am near Croton on Hudson.
 
burnout said:
joecool85 said:
Looks like your chimney is no where near tall enough. You need to have 2' taller than anything within 10' of the top of the stack. From the picture it's hard to tell but it looks like you might have half that clearance.

The guy did follow that rule. There is enough clearance. The side of the room is about 14 feet away from the house and is over 2 feet taller than the peak of the new roof.

In that case I would get rid of the interior 90 with two 45s as suggested and see where that brings you, it should drastically improve your draw.
 
Forgot to take a pic of my circulation fans. These are Panasonic whisperwall 70 scfm fans. I have 3 that dump hot air upstairs from this room(and unfortunately smoke as well). Two bedrooms and a bathroom get the heat. They seem to be working but have been modified a bit from original design as they are being run through the studs of the wall and have a normal 4 x 6" register with a damper on the other side a couple feet up.

I will post later as to how they are working.

If anyone is going to ask, they vent inside the house and are not competing with the draft of the chimney.

I am right around the block from you, I am in Millwood.

Ugh, forgot to attach the photos.
 

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In that case I would get rid of the interior 90 with two 45s as suggested and see where that brings you, it should drastically improve your draw.


I talked to him already about it, he says the stove needs to be 4 feet away from the wall to do this. I would think you could do it in the same space. I will ask him to bring them just in case. He has a history of not thinking straight as you will see...

I didn't mention it but I really had to put my foot down on the initial install. The pipe was no where near straight. It was leaning to one side. He said nothing could be done about it. I gave him several solutions and he still told me it couldn't be done. So he comes back and wadda you know, my stove pipe is now straight up. He says he wasn't thinking straight that day.

The guy is real nice, but he seems like he wants the easy way out and really isn't paying a lot of attention to the details.

I think I am finally getting to him that it needs to be done right and he is way more agreeable on the phone today than earlier. I guess I am getting my grease after being squeaky enough.
 
IMHO if the book says you need 16 feet that would mean straight pipe no 45's or 90's period, that fact seems to be lost in the mix most of the time, if it works with the bends great if it dont then add pipe till it works. Dont count on two 45 making a big improvement, hit or miss on that one as read in many posts on this forum.
 
oldspark said:
IMHO if the book says you need 16 feet that would mean straight pipe no 45's or 90's period, that fact seems to be lost in the mix most of the time, if it works with the bends great if it dont then add pipe till it works. Dont count on two 45 making a big improvement, hit or miss on that one as read in many posts on this forum.

I agree with you completely. Straight runs, follow what the manufacturer says and you shouldn't go wrong.

Unfortunately, I have been painted into a corner by outside forces, my contractor and stove installer. Had I known then what I know now, I would have placed the stove in the front of the room instead of the back so I could go up the 30' to the top of the original house and this would be a non-issue. The placement of the stove in the low point of the room has forced me to essentially do cartwheels with he stove pipe and I am now trying to streamline to get every inch of vacuum that I can with what I have before extending. If two 45s give me even a slight advantage at this point, I will take it. Every inch of draw counts at this point for me.

Remember, I have to look at this pipe all summer long from the back patio. Even worse, I'll have to hear about it from my wife all summer long.

Maybe I can put pipe on it in winter and take it off for the summer. Hmm...
 
I have also done a lot of research as I am in the finishing stage of my project... One other thing that I haven't seen mentioned is the fact that your chimney doesn't extend above your highest living space... Not sure how much that affects the draft but I do remember reading it somewhere... Something about the pressure inside your home...
 
I think that falls under the 10/2 rule. I have heard the same as you have mentioned, though. If we are talking about static column of water type stuff, I would think having a lower pipe would automatically give you positive draft up the chimney from the higher column of air in the existing house as long as there was an window open in the higher part of the house. I have found that is most certainly not the case.

Kind of like pouring water into a manometer, it will always seek to be level as long as there is no dynamic force applied to one side or the other.
 
This is really a bummer. You are correct. This was poorly planned, communicated and executed. The dealer's backpedalling is not helping at all. The sales person is obviously over his head. They can try to add to the rocket stack outside, but for this stove it may not be sufficient. The only way you are going to know is test it.

If it fails you will either need to get a different stove or relocate to a more practical location. That would be a bummer, but everything can be patched and the tiled area would be great for some plants. And IMO the dealer should eat the new install costs.
 
I can't tell from the photo, but are you saying that the top of the chimney is 14 feet (measured horizontally) from the gutter (or what looks like a gutter) on the upper level of the house? It may be, but the photo doesn't look it.
 
One other detail to pay attention to - as you add more onto that stack, be sure it is properly braced. I don't see any on there now which may be fine at the moment, but go much taller and I'm sure you will need some to keep it from being pulled over by wind. I sure wouldn't want it to be pulled over by a gust - especially if I had a nice fire going at the time!
 
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