Couldn't find the answer to these...Can any coal stove be power vented? What happens when power goes off?
I looked around on NEPA
- Thread starter wg_bent
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Warren are you trying to bait me again. Lets start with the nature of power- vent and direct vent
Direct vent is controlled by a continuous blower like the ones used to push air into the burn pot Of pellet stoves
It has enough force to push the exhaust a certain distance But it runs continuous Gas stoves made for direct venting as well Needed is a constant burn rate and volume of inlet air and exhaust air.
Power Vents are vents with a blower or inducer that pulls the exhaust out of the appliance. They are wired into the controls of the Burner to open at a time interval before ignition and continue a certain time period after the burn cycle has finishes. They are used for intermittent use, not set for constantly being on. Built into the controls is if the power- venter fails the burner cannot fire. They are quite noisy. Because a wood stove burn rate fluctuates so much and there are no controls that sophicated to adjust the burn to the power-venter, it is not an option. Remember these direct vented appliances have computer boards with sensors to aid the direct vent On you burner the demand call is received it sends a signal to activate the powervent cooperating a return signal tells the burner all is ok to begin the burn cycle The demand is met the burner goes off and after a while the powerventer does. So the power venter is basically not too sophicated just on and off.
I suppose with technology, using and reading sensors and using variable speed motors. It could be possible to use a power-venter for other purposes. No idea how much that would cost as today. These are not cheap $400 or more. And somebody smart enough to wire it correctly. Again I also do not believe the need for power-venters is there as the direct vent with the appliance does that job
I might add that most direct vent appliances require a direct connection to an outside air feed. Power vent applications special care has to be looked into to make sure there is enough available combustion air. to satisfy the combustion and the powerventers cfm demands
Direct vent is controlled by a continuous blower like the ones used to push air into the burn pot Of pellet stoves
It has enough force to push the exhaust a certain distance But it runs continuous Gas stoves made for direct venting as well Needed is a constant burn rate and volume of inlet air and exhaust air.
Power Vents are vents with a blower or inducer that pulls the exhaust out of the appliance. They are wired into the controls of the Burner to open at a time interval before ignition and continue a certain time period after the burn cycle has finishes. They are used for intermittent use, not set for constantly being on. Built into the controls is if the power- venter fails the burner cannot fire. They are quite noisy. Because a wood stove burn rate fluctuates so much and there are no controls that sophicated to adjust the burn to the power-venter, it is not an option. Remember these direct vented appliances have computer boards with sensors to aid the direct vent On you burner the demand call is received it sends a signal to activate the powervent cooperating a return signal tells the burner all is ok to begin the burn cycle The demand is met the burner goes off and after a while the powerventer does. So the power venter is basically not too sophicated just on and off.
I suppose with technology, using and reading sensors and using variable speed motors. It could be possible to use a power-venter for other purposes. No idea how much that would cost as today. These are not cheap $400 or more. And somebody smart enough to wire it correctly. Again I also do not believe the need for power-venters is there as the direct vent with the appliance does that job
I might add that most direct vent appliances require a direct connection to an outside air feed. Power vent applications special care has to be looked into to make sure there is enough available combustion air. to satisfy the combustion and the powerventers cfm demands
lime4x4
Member
Warren only if the stove manufactor says it can be power vented.My brother inlaw just got a reading stoker.Which is designed to use a chimney or power vent.If u go with power venting they add a control box at the factory in case the power venter fails it will shut off the stove feed motor and combustion fan.I myself don't like it.It's constantly pulling air out of the stove.this thing really blows the air.if your outside u can feel the air from the vent about 2 feet away.
No, definitely not baiting you this time Elk...My question was more tied to my previous post on the small basement stove. Much easier to powervent if possible (I think) than to put in a full chimney. Sounds like it's not possible. I'm still thinking about that small Morso coal stove. One thing that does seem worth noting....The Morso 1410 weighs 180lbs, vs a Harmon Mark I which weighs 339 lbs. I know the harmon is rated to heat a lot more, but is there any reason to consider weight when looking at stoves?
Very different stoves, as the Morso is cast iron with a firebrick firebox vs Harmon is welded steel with firebrick firebox.
One real difference...the Morso has secondary burn tubes just like it's wood cousin where the harmon is a pure coal burner.
Very different stoves, as the Morso is cast iron with a firebrick firebox vs Harmon is welded steel with firebrick firebox.
One real difference...the Morso has secondary burn tubes just like it's wood cousin where the harmon is a pure coal burner.
I know you explained what you were planning before Explain your setup. Can you convert your existing burner to a power vent setup, and use that flue for wood or coal burning stove. IO have seen a lot of stoves in action trouble shooted quite a few , I must say my VC intrepid II is a fantastic room heater. Burns very clean a no smoke with the cat activated. 6 hours of decent heat is a reality. The room it is in is 22/22 16" cathedral ceilings 7 exterior windows 4 sky lights and exterior door and open stair case going to the level below. Poit being not the easiest room to heat but this stove can get it there 70 degrees even when 3 outside earlier Dec.
First cat stove I owned. I was worried it would not work out this well. 8/8 masonry flue completely outside 24' up. Real worried being a cat stove it would never work well. When I replaced the combustor $59 woodstove combusters.com. It was so easy to install and $59 is not hard to take if even every 3 years. they claim 5 to 6 years.
Now I wish I knew that before I bought the resolute 3 years back for the same money I could have gotten the Encore larger fire box 20" logs (I have to shorten my entire supply) longer cleaner burns more BTU's Which I could really use on that level. I wish I could locate a decent used one I do not mind the work involved even if I have to rebiuld it. My situation is limited to rear exit only top of my exit pipe can only be 28" this eliminated most stoves. the encore is 26 3/4" which I can make work.
Well did you win the arguement about connector pipe. I knew you were not baiting me again Just threw that in/ I do remember things beyond 2 day
First cat stove I owned. I was worried it would not work out this well. 8/8 masonry flue completely outside 24' up. Real worried being a cat stove it would never work well. When I replaced the combustor $59 woodstove combusters.com. It was so easy to install and $59 is not hard to take if even every 3 years. they claim 5 to 6 years.
Now I wish I knew that before I bought the resolute 3 years back for the same money I could have gotten the Encore larger fire box 20" logs (I have to shorten my entire supply) longer cleaner burns more BTU's Which I could really use on that level. I wish I could locate a decent used one I do not mind the work involved even if I have to rebiuld it. My situation is limited to rear exit only top of my exit pipe can only be 28" this eliminated most stoves. the encore is 26 3/4" which I can make work.
Well did you win the arguement about connector pipe. I knew you were not baiting me again Just threw that in/ I do remember things beyond 2 day
;-)- Status
Similar threads
