I narrowed it down to two furnaces...any input?

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lmholmes11

Member
Jul 27, 2014
77
Northern Michigan
I had another thread about pellet furnace suggestions. After a lot of re search I have narrowed it down to two.

1. Harmon PF120. Sounds like everything I need and then more, plus good quality. 120,000 BTU. Price is $ 5,999 and my local dealer offers a 5% military discount.

2. A-Maize-ing Heat Corn/pellet furnace. I like the idea of being able to burn pellets or corn. I think you have to switch the feed auger and burn pot out though. This one is 100,000 BTU I believe and around $4,000.

What do you all think?
 
The boiler version of the Amaizing AKA Kernal burner was no need to change anything. Seemed to be a bit of a pig.
 
If you go with the A-Maizing PM me if you try and go with straight corn. It needs a few tweaks.
 
I've got the boiler version. Neihber bought a air version and haven't heard anything. Replace a very old countryside
 
Did you check out a St.Croix Revolution?
 
You may want to consider the reputation of the dealer in your area as well.
 
60,000 btus is a lot if burning at a near continuous rate.
 
60,000 btus is a lot if burning at a near continuous rate.

Very very very true... Bigger is not better when it comes to a central heating appliance.

I would argue you could put in a smaller furnace and if it was -20F and it could not keep up it would be less expensive overall to run your alternative heating source to supplement. The efficiency of a smaller unit at 30F makes up for the running of a more expensive fuel at lower temps. It also costs less upfront.
 
Okay I think I am following you. So the furnaces are more efficient if they are running all the time versus turning on and off when the tstat calls for heat? Kind of makes sence but then again it kind of doesn't.
 
Most of my heating is done with a stove rated at less than 50k input for 3000 square feet. Most pellets used in a day around 60 lbs or 480,000 btus input for a hourly average of 20k. Yes my home is tight etc.Multifuel stoves need to keep running to keep efficiency up. A lot of cycling just puts heat up the exhaust.
 
Okay I think I am following you. So the furnaces are more efficient if they are running all the time versus turning on and off when the tstat calls for heat? Kind of makes sence but then again it kind of doesn't.

A simple analogy is driving 5 miles to the store vs driving 25 miles. You'll get better mpg if your driving 25 miles continuously rather then driving 5 miles 5 separate times.

They make modulating heating systems outdoor resets etc all with the purpose of trying to match load and demand exactly.

This is a common disconnect with a lot of the heating industry. No one wants a call from someone saying Im cold and my furnace is running non stop. But with a pellet stove you can just turn on your other heating system on extremely cold days if you cant handle a 2 degree drop in your house.

We have a geothermal system that puts out about 40btu for about 2800 sq ft. It will lose a degree or two when its below zero at night. But it operates more efficiently when its 20 degrees outside. The majority of the time its not below 0 even this past winter so its less expensive to run a smaller system on yearly basis then putting in a huge system.
 
How do you all recommend my furnace be vented if it will be in the middle of the basement, maybe 10 or 15 ft away from an outside wall?

Horizontal flues don;t work well you will have to move it closer. Spend more on insulating the house and you can use the smaller furnace like the 50F.
 
We had to put a timer to slow down the feed for corn. This unit needs a 6 inch chimney unless they have changed. Ran it in the garage and ran the lines to basement. Just never seen the efficiency because was to big for our application.
 
Did you check out a St.Croix Revolution?

Unless you can find a used one, the Revolution is no longer available. I wanted to get one for my house, and put a deposit down, and then found out that St. Croix isn't making them anymore.

To the OP, long horizontal runs are not good for pellet exhaust. The Harman will be the most forgiving, but it's worthwhile to download the install manuals and see what you can and can't do in regards to the venting.
 
I have looked at the installation manual for the harman. If I do put it next to the closest wall of the basement it looks like I would have to run a return and supply runs all the way to the trunk of the existing furnace. Is this correct? Or could I tie in to the closest existing return and supply runs by the wall and just close the heat register a little bit in the rooms upstairs above where I tie in? (Would still of corse put dampers in at the pellet furnace and existing furnace
 
May have found a new Revolution. Posting on CL from dealer in Mankato, MN Post id#4617680689
 
You need to tie into the main trunks. You dont want to starve the system.
 
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