I need some help installing a stove

[mbender0602]

I got a woodstove from a buddy that I want to put into my shop. It will only be used when I am out there working, and not run all the time. I have a stove pipe for it that tapers from 5" to 4". I was wondering if I could use this piece for my chimney through the roof. I am going to install roof flashing and a cap, storm collar and support it from the rafters. My shop is uninsulated and the roof pitch is very low almost flat. It will exit right at the peak of the roof. I was wondering if I can use this piece of pipe I found on craigslist for the chimney through the roof. Thanks for any help I can get.

EDIT: The pipe is 4" id 6" od

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[Hogwildz]

I'm thinking 4" is too small. Sounds like a pc for a pellet stove.
What is the outlet size on the stove?

 

[mbender0602]

The stove outlet is 6" reduced to 5. Its going to be about a 10 ft rise to the top.

 

[mbender0602]

here is some pics of the stove

 

[begreen]

The answer is no on all accounts. Flue diameter reduction is not allowed. And that is not proper class A flue pipe for the High Temp penetration of the roof. I'm not sure what the black pipe is, but pellet vent is a good guess.

Get a kit that has the right parts. You're going to have a short stack, don't restrict it by downsizing. That stove will be running hot and you want total peace of mind.

 

[kksalm]

You never know till you try. I doubt if you'll get an endorsement on this site since it won't be anywhere near code. It's something I'd try because it looks like it should work, going straight up and all. Necking down a 6 inch to a 4 inch isn't that much of a stretch but I'd be wanting to burn the dry stuff and checking the pipe inside and out often. Also getting the flue hot from burning top down should get it flowing. I'm probably going to be banished from this site for posting out of code, your options just increase by how much you can spend. You did say you'd be there, gear up for the worst case which could be anything to very smokey to a burn out where it necks down..... and something totally unexpected. You're asking me, don't take my advice. I'd do it.
Best regards, kksalm

 

[kksalm]

Oh yeah, and what BeGreen says
kksalm

 

[mbender0602]

Well a little more craigslist searching and I found a guy selling (9) 2 foot lengths of pipe, 2 90's, 1 roof flashing for triple wall pipe, 1 storm ring, 1 8" to 6" reducer for 50 bucks. Seems like the way to go. Then I just need the triple wall for the chimney. Its funny I am a member on several differnet forums, Motorcycles, Beer Brewing, Now a wood stove forum, it always takes me a while to pick up on the jargon everybody uses. I have no idea what heating from the top down means or the dry stuff. I assume seasoned wood. I was probably going to burn pallets and old orchard wood as there is an abundance of it for free around here.

 

[mbender0602]

Also I know very ittle about this stove and cant find anything online about it. It has a info plate on the back that gives some dimensions and such, but other than that Im not sure what I need or how to use it to maximize efficiancy. I had a wood stove in my old house , but it was there when I got to it. This one doesnt have any bricks or grating inside. Do I need anything in there or can I burn right on the bottom. Thats what it looks like the previous owner did. I have some pics of the plate if it helps.

 

[offroadaudio]

I think the best thing for you to do would be spend 1 hour reading the "Main Information Articles" found at the top of these pages.
You'll be glad to have the knowledge and piece of mind of a safe install.

 

[begreen]

Wow, locally made. Looks like you got the 23d unit off the line. Maybe post an interior shot of the stove too so we can perhaps see if anything is missing? Are there firebricks in there, an upper baffle?

Yes, getting the terminology down will help us assess what you need. The pipe that goes through the roof and up is the chimney flue. It has to be class A, high temp pipe rated at 2100F. This can be double wall insulated or triple wall insulated. The interior pipe that connects the stove to the chimney is called the flue connector. This can be single wall or double wall (but not the same as the high-temp double wall.

Be careful if the pipe is used. When you get pipe you want it to be in good condition and a major brand so that you can get parts that match to fit out the rest of the system.

 

[thechimneysweep]

About the pictured pipe: this is co-axial pipe, used for direct vent gas stoves. The inner liner is aluminum, and will rapidly swiss cheese on you if exposed to wood creosote.

About the stove: Wow, a Wildwood! Those guys were ahead of their time, but not quite far enough. Note the location of the combustion air inlet above the door. This was to provide air directly to the secondary burn, a concept that was cutting edge back in the mid-80's. Not sure about serial #26, but if memory serves, later models had a deflector inside to direct some of the incoming air down across the inside of the ceramic viewing window, a precurser to today's ubiquitous airwash designs. While cleaner burning than most of its contemporaries, the Wildwood evidently didn't meet EPA Phase I emissions standards, as it disappeared right around that time.