I need some help with my Quadrafire 800.

[Baxter Anvil]

We bought it as a nearly new item from a dealer in Albany, OR (no longer in business) and have used it successfully since the early 90s. Now, not so much... I replaced the burn pot back when it wasn't nearly so dear as now and stopped using the sintered metal ignitors. I had one of the ceramic wire nuts come loose and short out a control box and was lucky enough to buy one directly from the manufacturer of the boxes. Everything's been working well until the end of last year when I began to have a lot of un-burned pellets in the pot and a stove that didn't come up to heat and shut down much too soon. We really don't use the stove for 5-6 months of the year so after a through cleaning, I installed a set of new, OEM snap switches and tested the stove. To my dismay, now the feed auger didn't start and the ignitor didn't heat. I got continuity on snap switches 1 & 2 and none on #3 which is what I expected. When I supplied external voltage to the motor, the feed auger operated as expected. The firebox vacuum switch tube was clear (the switch is a replacement for one that failed some years ago.) I'd retained the original control box so I sent it off for evaluation/repair and it was returned after a fuse and capacitor were replaced. I installed it but still no ignitor/feed auger action. When tested for continuity, the reset switch operates as expected and the fuse at this location is good. At this point, the exhaust blower comes on and then times out (due to no input from the thermocouple I pesume) but the convection blower comes on when the thermostat's turned on to start the stove and doesn't quit. So what in The Wild World o'Sports have I missed or mistaken? Thanks in advance to any responders, a bowl of good clam chowder in my little coastal town for a solution!

 

[Ssyko]

This should be your wiring diagram. Check that you have all the wires in the correct position. And for troubleshooting lets jump the thermostat connection and take it out of the equation. With that, when you plug in the stove the exhaust blower should run for a few min then shut off. Give this a try and see what happens

 

[Baxter Anvil]

'Sorry for the tardy response; 'had some other things to deal with but now I can focus on the pellet stove. I jumpered the thermostat, supplied power to the stove and all was as before: no ignitor, no feed auger, exhaust blower timed out at approx. 9 minutes. However, with this newly rehabbed box, there was no run on of the convection fan as there was before I swapped them ( convection fan running noted in first cry for help) No wires loose or out of place. That is the schematic for the for this stove (above). Next?

 

[Ssyko]

I would test combustion, convection, igniter, auger with a test cord and make sure they are 100% functional. If they are your probably going to have to replace the control box.

 

[Baxter Anvil]

I've already tested the feed auger and igniter for function and they're good; the auger augs and the ignitor gets hot PDQ, each on 110V. The combustion fan operates as it should, at least for the timed in portion of the start up. Is there really a need to supply 110v. to the convection fan? Does any possible lack of function on it's part prevent the rest of the stove's start up procedure? I don't think so, but tell me if I'm wrong in this.

As I wrote earlier, this control box has already had an evaluation and repair; it's possible it still has a fault that exactly mimics the box that had the same partial function before I swapped it out but I want to set that to the side for the moment 'cause I need to question the gent who did the repair.

If the control box was working, is there a single fault failure source present in this system (what one thing would keep it from starting up the auger/ignitor)? Would a random failure of say, the vacuum switch cause this? Apart from clearing the hose several times, I haven't put a meter to that yet.

 

[Ssyko]

The vac switch can kill power to the auger. Jump the 2 terminals and try it. As for the igniter it should power up as soon as the call for heat is lit. Then as the stove gets up to a cirtain temp the green light on the box will light Up (315deg)and tell the control its good to feed more pellets ( proof of fire). It then goes on till it reaches operational temp and the red light comes on(1400 deg) it then turns off pow er for the igniter and is in full operation. but that is its full operation.

is this box like yours?

 

[Baxter Anvil]

Yep. Here's the link to the visual Alain supplies with each of his repairs, this one's mine. He replaced the capacitor adjacent to the green/red LEDs and the fuse. I'll get back to the stove later today (applesauce demands attention now!)and thanks for feedback and response Sskyo.

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[Baxter Anvil]

The vac switch can kill power to the auger. Jump the 2 terminals and try it. As for the igniter it should power up as soon as the call for heat is lit. Then as the stove gets up to a cirtain temp the green light on the box will light Up (315deg)and tell the control its good to feed more pellets ( proof of fire). It then goes on till it reaches operational temp and the red light comes on(1400 deg) it then turns off pow er for the igniter and is in full operation. but that is its full operation.

is this box like yours?
View attachment 266447

Back to the problem: jumping the vacuum switch didn't result in anything but the same. No auger, no ignitor, combustion/exhaust fan runs & times out. I pulled one lead loose from the high-limit switch just in case it didn't manually reset, same-same. What else gets in the way of auger/ignitor function but permits exhaust fan start up?

 

[Ssyko]

Somthing isn't right on the control board. Have you checked voltages at the igniter on start up

 

[Baxter Anvil]

Somthing isn't right on the control board. Have you checked voltages at the igniter on start up

No I haven't, I just made sure it heated. Correct me if I'm wrong but there should be 110V @ the connections on start up? Same for the auger on start up? If there's nothing at all for either function (or even less than operating voltage), then it's time to question the gent what worked on the 'board.

 

[Ssyko]

Yep 110/120 vac and yes i would contact your repair guy