I would like to have an ID in this wood stove, please

[Paramonte]

Dear All,
Could somebody please ID this stove and explain the functions of the various inlets and outlets of this stove?
Could it be used for cooking?

Thank you in advance for your time and patience.
Regards

 

[begreen]

The air intake slider plate is missing. It covers the rectangular trough below the door and is how one regulates the air going to the fire. The large oval opening on top is the flue outlet connection. The 3 vaned round airlet next to it looks like a basic way to introduce a bit of air for some secondary combustion.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

It appears there might be a missing piece under the trivot also.

 

[begreen]

These parts might be what is currently sitting inside the stove.

 

[coaly]

It appears that both the lid and air intake adjuster plate are in the pile of parts in the stove along with boot rails that use the square holes to mount on each side.

The flat plate covers the hole in front, and curls up under the door to close the large opening under door, adjusting how much air goes in to feed fire. This is like the throttle on an engine.

The grate inside is probably for coal since box stoves like this were sometimes made for wood or coal.

Do not open the upper rotating secondary air too far with wood. This allows indoor air to rush up the chimney, cooling it with excessive indoor air.

With coal, it is only cracked to allow oxygen above fire to ignite coal gas.

Once a coal fire is established, the upper secondary air intake can be opened to allow indoor air up the chimney to slow draft. It is then called a “check” damper, because it checks, or slows draft by cooling the exhaust gases. Don’t do that with wood, it cools chimney flue too much forming creosote.

When you understand what makes a stove work, you can figure out what different openings into the firebox are, and what they will do.

All stoves work on this principal; Hot exhaust gases rising up the chimney causes a low pressure area, or vacuum in the chimney flue, pipe, and stove. This is measured as draft. This allows the higher atmospheric air pressure outside of the stove and venting system to PUSH into any opening it can. This feeds the fire oxygen.

Wood uses air from any direction it can get it. Coal requires lots of oxygen up through it to make it burn. The chimney is what makes the stove work since air will not move into the box to feed the fire oxygen without the proper draft.

Since the outlet opening is attached to chimney, you can see how opening the upper air too far allows indoor air to rush up the vacuum of the flue without doing the fire any good.

 

[Paramonte]

It appears that both the lid and air intake adjuster plate are in the pile of parts in the stove along with boot rails that use the square holes to mount on each side.

The flat plate covers the hole in front, and curls up under the door to close the large opening under door, adjusting how much air goes in to feed fire. This is like the throttle on an engine.

The grate inside is probably for coal since box stoves like this were sometimes made for wood or coal.

Do not open the upper rotating secondary air too far with wood. This allows indoor air to rush up the chimney, cooling it with excessive indoor air.

With coal, it is only cracked to allow oxygen above fire to ignite coal gas.

Once a coal fire is established, the upper secondary air intake can be opened to allow indoor air up the chimney to slow draft. It is then called a “check” damper, because it checks, or slows draft by cooling the exhaust gases. Don’t do that with wood, it cools chimney flue too much forming creosote.

When you understand what makes a stove work, you can figure out what different openings into the firebox are, and what they will do.

All stoves work on this principal; Hot exhaust gases rising up the chimney causes a low pressure area, or vacuum in the chimney flue, pipe, and stove. This is measured as draft. This allows the higher atmospheric air pressure outside of the stove and venting system to PUSH into any opening it can. This feeds the fire oxygen.

Wood uses air from any direction it can get it. Coal requires lots of oxygen up through it to make it burn. The chimney is what makes the stove work since air will not move into the box to feed the fire oxygen without the proper draft.

Since the outlet opening is attached to chimney, you can see how opening the upper air too far allows indoor air to rush up the vacuum of the flue without doing the fire any good.

To all that replied thank you for your time . Yes some pieces may be inside the stove. Tomorrow I will collect it. The price is 150 Euros. Do you reckon this is a good price?

 

[begreen]

I wouldn't pay that, especially in this condition.

 

[stoveliker]

What it's worth also depends on what you want to do with it.

For 150 euro you can get better stoves to heat with.
However, if you have sentimental attachment to something like this, it might be worth it to you to get it, clean it up, and occasionally use it.

 

[begreen]

If better cared for or a more unique stove, maybe. When sentiment is involved, the price is totally subjective. I wouldn't pay that but someone else might.

 

[stoveliker]

Is that a crack running vertical in the middle of the back? (2nd pic)

If so, it's scrap.

 

[begreen]

Looks like a seam. but a good inspection for cracks is warranted. The whole stove would probably need a complete resealing.

 

[Paramonte]

If better cared for or a more unique stove, maybe. When sentiment is involved, the price is totally subjective. I wouldn't pay that but someone else might.

Is not a crack, is a seam

 

[Paramonte]

Thank you for all the replies. I have just bought it for 140 Euros, could not lower anymore. A factor that weighted in favour is that this is an old model and the seller just lives 3 minutes away my place, so he ended up transporting the stove in its own bigger car, as we suspected it did not fit in my vw golf. So saved a lot of money in the delivery costs associated with a piece this heavy, may be a couple of hundred euros. The stove is much bigger than what I anticipated. And heavy. As someone correctly mentioned some pieces where inside. I did inspect for cracks and it seems there is none, but will give a second look. For the time being the only downside is the non existence (apparently) of a heat deflector inside, close to the oval outlet. It seems it is not a case of a lost deflector more like the stove was not designed to have one, since there are not the usual inside supports that keep the deflector in place. I think this will reduce a lot the stove efficiency, and I am just imagining about building a deflector myself using a steel sheet that I would cut to fit. Is this feasible? Other option I was thinking about to reduce this problem would be to give the flue a twist just outside the oval outlet to brake the upwards hot air flux, or even buying a flue with a butterfly valve. That darker curved line on the inside wall is not a crack, I think, seems to be a surplus of the isolation gel. Sorry for this long message. Eagerly waiting for your input, namely the missing deflector.

 

[Paramonte]

It appears that both the lid and air intake adjuster plate are in the pile of parts in the stove along with boot rails that use the square holes to mount on each side.

The flat plate covers the hole in front, and curls up under the door to close the large opening under door, adjusting how much air goes in to feed fire. This is like the throttle on an engine.

The grate inside is probably for coal since box stoves like this were sometimes made for wood or coal.

Do not open the upper rotating secondary air too far with wood. This allows indoor air to rush up the chimney, cooling it with excessive indoor air.

With coal, it is only cracked to allow oxygen above fire to ignite coal gas.

Once a coal fire is established, the upper secondary air intake can be opened to allow indoor air up the chimney to slow draft. It is then called a “check” damper, because it checks, or slows draft by cooling the exhaust gases. Don’t do that with wood, it cools chimney flue too much forming creosote.

When you understand what makes a stove work, you can figure out what different openings into the firebox are, and what they will do.

All stoves work on this principal; Hot exhaust gases rising up the chimney causes a low pressure area, or vacuum in the chimney flue, pipe, and stove. This is measured as draft. This allows the higher atmospheric air pressure outside of the stove and venting system to PUSH into any opening it can. This feeds the fire oxygen.

Wood uses air from any direction it can get it. Coal requires lots of oxygen up through it to make it burn. The chimney is what makes the stove work since air will not move into the box to feed the fire oxygen without the proper draft.

Since the outlet opening is attached to chimney, you can see how opening the upper air too far allows indoor air to rush up the vacuum of the flue without doing the fire any good.

Many thanks. This is a brilliant explanation, namely the difference in dynamics when using coal and wood and the circular adjustable valve. Please see above my comments done after receiving the stove

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, it's a seam. The original pic made it look wavier to me.

A baffle (heat deflector) will make a large difference indeed if you can do it.
Angle iron with plate. (Sheet may be too thin and will start sagging.) At least 4 mm thick, I'd say.

 

[stoveliker]

A flue damper as close to the stove as as possible will also help.

Do you have the adapter from the oval outlet to the circular flue?

 

[Paramonte]

A flue damper as close to the stove as as possible will also help.

Do you have the adapter from the oval outlet to the circular flue?

Will investigate the flue damper.
I was just now looking for the adaptor you mention, and was worried that could not find online. Surely I am using the wrong keywords. Must be delivered from the European Union, otherwise the coctum taxes will be impossible (stupid I know).

 

[Paramonte]

Yes, it's a seam. The original pic made it look wavier to me.

A baffle (heat deflector) will make a large difference indeed if you can do it.
Angle iron with plate. (Sheet may be too thin and will start sagging.) At least 4 mm thick, I'd say.

I am afraid I don't have the expertise and tools to work with such a thick sheet. And the design is not easy

 

[stoveliker]

Is there a name plate in the back?
If you find brand and model you can search more easily for the adapter.

 

[Paramonte]

Is there a name plate in the back?
If you find brand and model you can search more easily for the adapter.

I will look for that. The seller told me it has been sitting in his place for 30 years

 

[stoveliker]

Not.connected to a flue?

 

[Paramonte]

Not.connected to a flue?

Not yet

 

[stoveliker]

I mean in the seller's house

 

[Paramonte]

I mean in the seller's house

The stove was stored in a garage and, according to the seller, had been there for 30 years+. Apparently the stove was assembled but was never used

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Back to your original post, we probably can’t id it, and yes, it can be used for cooking. I’m not sure I’d want to though. I think it’s been sitting in his garden for a bit and I bet the rebuild would be fun trying to get all of the fasteners out. Personally, I’d run from it.