I'm Through the Wall! And the Roof! Woodstove install begins...

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but now I'll need to build a cabin for the Energy Harvesters : )
 
Looks good, for some reason your pictures weren't showing. I added them to your post.

How does it look on the interior? You'll want to be sure that all the burnplates fit snugly with no warps or cracks. I added a rear burn plate to mine. These stoves can burn hot in the back and the rear plate really helps prevent issues with burning out the back side.

With the small firebox, it does go through fuel quickly, but it is a very easy to run little stove that has a mighty heart.
 
BeGreen said:
Looks good, for some reason your pictures weren't showing. I added them to your post.

How does it look on the interior? You'll want to be sure that all the burnplates fit snugly with no warps or cracks. I added a rear burn plate to mine. These stoves can burn hot in the back and the rear plate really helps prevent issues with burning out the back side.

With the small firebox, it does go through fuel quickly, but it is a very easy to run little stove that has a mighty heart.

Thanks for adding the pics...I am not sure why they were not showing up maybe my host is having issues???

The interior looks good. I have not had a chance to really look it over since I just picked it up last night and snapped those pics this morning before work...I do know that it includes the burn plates for the inside and the baffle etc.

It does have a mighty heart and I am already pumped to start cutting up the tiny little 16" fuel for it.
 
Looking for advice on one thing...

The 602 has the 5 inch exhaust on top as shown in the pics. I have the 5" to 6in adaptor and was wondering if I should install it directly to the stove (as shown) or if I should put it up on the chimney and run a 5" 90 and then 5" pipe down to the stove?

Nate
 
The adapter goes right on the stove.
 
Hooked up the Jotul yesterday... I want to sand blast and re coat the burn plates and smoke baffle on the inside. What coating should I use? High temp stove paint or does anyone have another recommendation?
 

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The burn plates and upper baffle have no coating, just raw cast iron. Be sure that they are seated correctly when put back in the stove. If the upper baffle isn't seated right, hot flames will travel up the back and bypass the baffle.

PS: The picts are not coming through. Just post them directly to the forum.

PPS: You'll want to get all that nearby crap away from the stove before burning. It puts out a lot of heat when it is ripping. Be sure to get a stove top thermometer on it. It's easy to overfire this little guy if the air is left open too much for too long. You'll be surprised at how quickly it will climb up to 800°F with a good load of dry wood.
 
How do I post directly to the forum? I am used to using an image host so I am not familiar with the other way of posting.

I will not burn it with anything near the stove but right now my chimney is not through my overhang and thus not finished so I will not be burning the stove for awhile...thus the clutter around it.

I will take your pointers into account and make sure everything is setup correctly before burning (and I'll get a stove thermometer).

Thanks!

Nate
 
Looks all great Jonsered. I am afraid to ask but couldn't see it mentioned in the thread or maybe I missed it. All I see is a wood floor and no hearth pad that both stoves were sitting on. Since your stove is hooked up, wont an adjustment have to be made on the final hookup as the stove will be higher? Again I probably missed something.
Cheers.
 
north of 60 said:
Looks all great Jonsered. I am afraid to ask but couldn't see it mentioned in the thread or maybe I missed it. All I see is a wood floor and no hearth pad that both stoves were sitting on. Since your stove is hooked up, wont an adjustment have to be made on the final hookup as the stove will be higher? Again I probably missed something.
Cheers.

You did not miss it...your correct. The building is actually on a concrete slab so thats a concrete floor the stoves are on. I am going to do some sort of tile floor since that room the stove is in will essentially be the kitchen. The stove pipes are a bit loose right now so that I can make the final adjustment once the floor is in, good observation!

Nate
 
flashing kit was ordered last week so I should be cutting my hole in the roof this week/weekend...kinda nerve racking : )

Then again, with the heating season headed our way I don't have much choice but to get this thing finished up so I won't be froze to a stump.
 
oldspark said:
I wonder how many people actually have problems with their stove pipe burning out, my stove pipe on my old stove was over 30 years old and it looked new when we replace the stove this past spring, if I could have I would have used it on the new stove but it was the wrong size.

Agreed... the stove pipe in my basement installation is at least 25 years old and completely fine.
 
My wood pile needs to be cut down though because my Jotul 602 accepts up to 14" logs while my Energy Harvester could accept probably 20 inchers. Most of my wood thats cut and split is about 18" so I need to cut it all down and re stack : (
 
flashing arrived tonight after I started working on preparing for the puncture through the safed and roof...perfect. I have three sections of staging setup for the project so I can work on it while balanced and on a level platform.
 

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Nice job on the install.

Here's some info on the stove you replaced for the Jotul.

Energy Harvester MC
MC model is for Mount Chocorua casted on the sides.
I used this stove for 2 1/2 years and the thing heated my entire house.
Very underrated old stove.
He bought it right from the owner back in the 80’s in Fitzwilliam, NH. where their shop was.
Here’s a few links, the manual and the info from their patent pertaining to the primary and secondary draft.

http://home.comcast.net/~ratline/Firewood/Woodstove_Energy_Harvesters.pdf

http://home.comcast.net/~ratline/Firewood/Energy_Harvester_patent_description.txt

http://home.comcast.net/~ratline/Firewood/Energy_Harvester_Patent_US4407265.pdf
 

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Thanks man! I actually posted in one of your threads that had the Energy Harvester and your thread is actually where I found out about the brand/model. I then found a great deal on one locally by chance and purchased it. As you can see from the pics in this thread, my MC was a rear exhaust and it forced my stove much further into the room than I could deal with so I went with a smaller stove (its in a very small cabin) which was top exhaust.

I appreciate the links...that info will come in very handy for my sale of the stove.

Nate
 
The incline of my back yard mad the staging a bit tricky : )
 

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Last night after work I cut my opening in the soffit and did everything I could to prepare for the roof flashing. The next step will be to cut the opening in the roof and finish up any trimming around the soffit from the top, and then set the flashing up and run the stove sections up through the roof!
 
Well this weekend was a good one and I should be ready to burn by next week. I cut the remainder of the roof out and prepared for my flashing kit. I have an idea for what I am going to do coming up through the soffit to clean it up and keep critters out and I will post pics once it is complete.

Since the pics were taken I also pulled the shingles off so I can tie them back in and finish up the roof too...all of this is simply waiting for the soffit piece before I can complete it.

Nate

PS I'll need at least another 3ft piece of chimney but I put the cap on to keep crap from going down the chimney while I'm working on it.
 

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Looks like you are making good progress. It will also need a roof brace at 5 ft.
 
What did you use to cut it? I have to get through my roof also. (soon as ventingpipe.com fixes my order).
 
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