Insert and Pre-fab fireplace

[GasMan]

Hi all-great site! I have read many posts and forums regarding pre-fab fireplaces and inserts on this site-I am hoping to get a Go or NoGo on an insert for my particular fireplace.

I have a Temco model TLC42-4I, approximately 5 years old-pictures attached. The owners manual does list a warning that "THIS FIREPLACE IS NOT INTENDED TO BE USED WITH ANY COMPONENTS OTHER THAN THOSE SPECIFIED IN THIS MANUAL (i.e.FIREPLACE INSERTS,BLOWERS, GLASS DOOR EXTENSIONS, HEAT CIRCULATORS). USE OF THESE ITEMS COULD RESULT IN A SERIOUS FIRE HAZARD." Does that end my quest for an insert without any further search, or is there hope?

A little information about the fireplace chase and clearance-from ground to top of chase is 30 feet. There is an access cubby hole from the basement to get inside the chase with a built-in ladder all the way to the top. There are 2 what I think are "fire-stops" built inside(each with a access panel). It has a inside depth of 2 feet. The entire chase is insulated and dry-walled to the 2nd "fire-stop".

The house is approximately 2400sq ft. with 1500 being on the main level. We are not looking to burn 24/7, but mainly nights/weekends-with the possibility of more. We live in the woods with plenty of wood.

The flue is the typical pre-fab 12" with the 8" insert and air-space in between. If there is an insert that would work in this fireplace, could I insert a SS insulated liner in the existing flue or would it be better to replace entire flue? The other flue in the chase chimney is for a future basement set-up, that flue is already a high temp insulated flue-the previous owner had a wood burning furnace in the basement.

Well, is it a Go, or NoGo?

I have considered the "alcove" idea with a stove or EPA wood burning FP such as the Quad 7100, but both would be an expensive alternative.

Thanks for any input!

GasMan

 

[webbie]

Every pre-fab made comes with that exact warning on it, and the warning is true in most cases....that is, you cannot take a set of regular (masonry fireplace) glass doors and mount them on there, covering the vents and perhaps other air circ components. I have heard of folks who did this and had a fire start THAT VERY DAY in the wall cavities.

BUT, if your purchase a wood burning fireplace inserts which is approved for pre-fab fireplaces, and to be even safer and more specific - it should mention the Temco brand (and many do), then you are buying equipment which is "approved or listed or both" for that fireplace.

You must install the inserts properly. Even though some manuals mention that you can connect to the existing flue pipe, I suggest lining the chimney to the top with a new 6" ss liner - inside the existing 8". This has a number of advantages and should let you rest easier in terms of the chimney safety.

Even the company that owns Temco (CFM), makes inserts (small winterwarm), which are approved for pre-fabs.

Let me add a little opinion to this post - The best pre-fab installation (same with masonry, actually) might be to use the body of the insert and NOT use the surround panels as that would let heat usually trapped behind the panels flow out to the room.

 

[GasMan]

Craig, thanks for the quick reply/advise-you have given me some hope!

 

[begreen]

Looks like a beautiful home and spot for a fire gasman, keep us posted with your progress.

 

[GasMan]

Thanks BeGreen-I will do that, just getting some ideas this winter so I can have it done by next fall.

 

[hilly]

If you plan on burning next year, start getting your firewood going this year.

 

[GasMan]

I do have a few cords already seasoned, but I have a lot of cutting and splitting ahead! We burn a fire in this fireplace almost nightly so we go through a lot of wood-another reason for an insert!

 

[scfa99]

another thing to consider is the clearance to combustibles, that mantle might be too low for some inserts.

 

[GasMan]

Thanks SCFA-I wondered about that, I have 16" from the bottom of the mantle to to the top of the fireplace opening. I assume the insert top would be a few inches lower than that to allow for connection of the venting? Is that clearance enough?

 

[Gooserider]

Thanks SCFA-I wondered about that, I have 16" from the bottom of the mantle to to the top of the fireplace opening. I assume the insert top would be a few inches lower than that to allow for connection of the venting? Is that clearance enough?

Depends on the insert, every one has a different set of clearance requirements, or so it seems. If you do find the insert you like and it doesn't have the clearance you need, there are a few options...

1. You can use a heat shield in some cases to protect the mantle - only downside is many of the shields tend towards the "Butt ugly" side...

2. You can raise the mantel, although that can also have appearance issues.

3. What I think is one of the best solutions - take the wood mantle off, and replace it with a non-combustible peice, such as a large hunk of blue-stone, or possibly a peice of black stone to match the hearth top. (Possibly make something out of cast concrete and do a stone veneer over it in order to reduce costs?)

Gooserider

 

[GasMan]

Thanks for the suggestions Gooserider-I agree with you that #3 would be the best solution. I really would like to avoid that all together if possible, but if I can't find an insert for that clearance then I would have to do it right.

 

[paulie]

you will be fine I too have a simular home, 30 ft case..Heatilator fire box, 21 ft inside ceiling's and I have had a Regency installed with a 6"ss liner. It seem's to be working fine. I just need to get this wood burning art down to a science Look at the Regency 2400...attractive, and good burner.

 

[GasMan]

Thanks wood wacker-I checked out Regencys web site, found the i2400. Looks like a nice insert, not much information on it though, I will try later tonight to find some more info on it. Just curios, did you insulate your 6" ss liner?