insert identification?
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It looks like a Silent Flame.
I think some parts or manuals are available online if you search around.
I think some parts or manuals are available online if you search around.
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Suggestion: Contact your local technical college. Ask if they have sheetmetal drafting classes there. If so, ask to talk to the instructor to see if he can have one of his students fab it up for you. This would be a win-win situation: You get the part you need; the student gets a grade for the product. 
(This suggestion comes from my hubby, a retired sheetmetal journeyman.) Another suggestion, contact a local hardware store, see if they have a fab shop.
Shari
(This suggestion comes from my hubby, a retired sheetmetal journeyman.) Another suggestion, contact a local hardware store, see if they have a fab shop.Shari
There are generic versions of such parts, but all in all, you are gonna end up spending something over $100 for it anyway.
So unless you get some sheet metal guys (as above) to fab something for you out of Stainless, you might as well buy the boot- but make certain you get a 5 foot flex tube which fits it.
So unless you get some sheet metal guys (as above) to fab something for you out of Stainless, you might as well buy the boot- but make certain you get a 5 foot flex tube which fits it.
thanks again for your help!
one more question tho, the silent flame stove transition boot goes to 8" round, my friend is going to use this stove in a 12 x 14 shed and probably going to get a smaller stove next year after it gets insulated. The smaller stove than will require a 6" round stack. Can he install a 6" stack now with the silent flame stove just for this year?
one more question tho, the silent flame stove transition boot goes to 8" round, my friend is going to use this stove in a 12 x 14 shed and probably going to get a smaller stove next year after it gets insulated. The smaller stove than will require a 6" round stack. Can he install a 6" stack now with the silent flame stove just for this year?
According to all codes and most manufacturers instructions....the answer is no.
As far as whether the stove will work at all, a 6" stack has vastly less capacity than an 8"....I think 40% less. The reason for the larger flue is the larger door opening...in other words, the firebox size and BTU output is likely not in need of an 8".
So, to expound further, if I was on a desert island and had no access to a 8", but there was a shed with a 6", I could probably make it work - by only opening one door to load, etc. - but I would not install it in my own house nor that of a client or customer that way.
As far as whether the stove will work at all, a 6" stack has vastly less capacity than an 8"....I think 40% less. The reason for the larger flue is the larger door opening...in other words, the firebox size and BTU output is likely not in need of an 8".
So, to expound further, if I was on a desert island and had no access to a 8", but there was a shed with a 6", I could probably make it work - by only opening one door to load, etc. - but I would not install it in my own house nor that of a client or customer that way.
Another thing - maintaining the proper clearances in a shed that small would be almost impossible.....if the person was trying to do anything else inside that shed. An older stove like this may need 2-3 foot clearances from the wall. Add in the front and side clearances, and 1/2 the shed will be gone...maybe more.
I suggest they find a good deal on that smaller stove - a newer one with some heat shielding and a 6" flue. Sometimes free isn't so cheap.
I suggest they find a good deal on that smaller stove - a newer one with some heat shielding and a 6" flue. Sometimes free isn't so cheap.
correction, the shed is 12 x 24.......in my house I'm running a Avalon Rainer with a 6" stack, the door opening of the Avalon is not that much smaller than the silent flame doors. Would we have to reduce the flu size from 8" to 6" with the smaller stove next year?
sjrider, Your not in Georgia are you? This looks like my old stove! Even the larger top cover panel that I had to fabricate. I ran one of these for 3+ years. It was pretty much a slammer install. Then I had a piece fabricated that would sit on top and bolt to those two crossmembers on the flue. It went up past my damper (think rectangle going up a few feet. The stove would burn ok, but would not handle very long wood. Compared to an epa stove... well there's no comparison. I was really never happy with this stove, it heated but without firebricks it has to stay roaring to keep it heated up. I sold mine for $90 which is a steal compared to how much others are asking for stoves, but I really wanted to get rid of it because I already found a steal on my new stove. If you are thinking about running a 6" liner (I suggest you do) then go ahead and find a cheap epa insert like a drolet. You can find them fairly cheap on craigslist. You'll be much happier. If not, then I guess you could slammer install it and hope you don't kill the family with carbon monoxide. I didn't kill mine, but I was pretty careless doing it after reading and doing a full liner install with what I've got now. I'd never go back to those frustrating days.
drdoct, I'm in south jersey, the shed will mostly be used by adults at nite, you know lisenting to good music and drinking milk and cookies....lol
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