Insert not heating room or house

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So they put roxul insulation at the cap of your chimney as well as put the block off plate in? Did you end up insulating the liner as well?

Go to my signiture and follow my install link. Towards the end you can see what happened. They plugged the bottom of the smoke shelf and poured in insulation from the top. My clay tiles were to small to install liner with wrapped insulation so the pour in was my only option.
 
Unsplit wood does not really season. I had branches about 2 inch diameter, 18" to 20" long for two years in the woodstack and those were the ones still hissing. The larger splits around it burned just fine and came up 15% to 20% with the MM. However, it is easy to split hardwood delivered, $117 for a cord is not that bad. You just need to cut, split and stack it for a year or two before burning it. Does he maybe sell some "unseasoned" logs for even less? It would be at least a quick way to get you started before you can find some scrounged wood.
Put the block off plate in today wih the roxul insulation .. Started burning can see a big difference with the blower pressure... It smoked up the house a little bit but I'm assuming that's from the heat trying to cure th sealant.. Will keep u posted about how it works
 
Added some more wood and got fire goin nice only problem is house instantly got smoked out even with door being closed and could see smoke coming from behind surround.. Don't know of that's from the sealant or what.. Positive that liner is connect properly ?
 
Does it smell like wood smoke or more chemical smelling? Is this the first time the stove has gone above 500F?
 
I don't think it's the first time.... I've had a bunch of fires but icon lot bought. Infrared therm. So maybe with the blockoff plate it's making the stove hotter
 
That may be the sealant or it could be the paint baking in if this is the first time the stove has gone over 500F.
 
I would open some windows and let the fire finish out warm in order to get this over and done with. How is the room heating up?
 
Let the stove get hot (500-600F) and open the windows. After that burn the smell should be gone as long as the stove got hot enough.

PS: What did you use around the liner to seal the block-off plate?
 
That's probably what you're smelling. Hopefully it will bake and become neutral.
 
Bulldogmoose,

I've got a Jotul Rockland 550 insert upstairs and an old smoke monster stove in the basement. The free stander produces twice as much heat as the insert, maybe more. Anyway, there's no comparison. Freestander can run you out of the room, and the insert takes pretty special consideration to make uncomfortably hot. I have gotten the 550 stove room to 72-74 degrees eventually, but the freestander takes no work to achieve 80 degrees in the same room.

For 550 success, I need dry wood, an established coal bed, then 3-4 new splits with the door cracked open, let them get engulfed in flames (slightly char-coaled), close the door, and start cutting the air back until the flames mysteriously rise off the logs and float around in the firebox, disembodied from the wood. Now the insert is working.

Get an IR gun (Kintrex), and use it to calibrate the location of the magnetic one. If it reads 75 degrees too low, it'll always be 75 degrees too low. Also use the IR gun to discover how many temp zones the stove can have and that it varies inch by inch. It's an education.

Also might want to consider that thing is probably moving a ton of air to feed the blowers. That's pretty cold air going across the floor to be heated and blown back out. And you may have a good layer of warm air 6" down from the ceiling. Check ceiling temps with the IR gun. Run your house's HVAC fan to break up holding areas for heat and disrupt cold flows returning to the fan blower.

I've really struggled to make this thing run me out of the room it's in, but it takes a few hours, and I'm still pretty chicken about it. But we're making progress. I'm going to start another thread about a very small IR aim point that ALWAYS has the highest temp reading on the stove, even though the temps under the cowling are always lower there, and maybe folks with similar machines can help prove/disprove this single teeny aim point I discovered.


Keep us posted.
Thanks,
Greg
 
Bulldogmoose,

I've got a Jotul Rockland 550 insert upstairs and an old smoke monster stove in the basement. The free stander produces twice as much heat as the insert, maybe more. Anyway, there's no comparison. Freestander can run you out of the room, and the insert takes pretty special consideration to make uncomfortably hot. I have gotten the 550 stove room to 72-74 degrees eventually, but the freestander takes no work to achieve 80 degrees in the same room.

For 550 success, I need dry wood, an established coal bed, then 3-4 new splits with the door cracked open, let them get engulfed in flames (slightly char-coaled), close the door, and start cutting the air back until the flames mysteriously rise off the logs and float around in the firebox, disembodied from the wood. Now the insert is working.

Get an IR gun (Kintrex), and use it to calibrate the location of the magnetic one. If it reads 75 degrees too low, it'll always be 75 degrees too low. Also use the IR gun to discover how many temp zones the stove can have and that it varies inch by inch. It's an education.

Also might want to consider that thing is probably moving a ton of air to feed the blowers. That's pretty cold air going across the floor to be heated and blown back out. And you may have a good layer of warm air 6" down from the ceiling. Check ceiling temps with the IR gun. Run your house's HVAC fan to break up holding areas for heat and disrupt cold flows returning to the fan blower.

I've really struggled to make this thing run me out of the room it's in, but it takes a few hours, and I'm still pretty chicken about it. But we're making progress. I'm going to start another thread about a very small IR aim point that ALWAYS has the highest temp reading on the stove, even though the temps under the cowling are always lower there, and maybe folks with similar machines can help prove/disprove this single teeny aim point I discovered.


Keep us posted.
Thanks,
Greg
Hey man appreciate the help.. To have such a beautiful piece and not have it work to expectations is a wicked bummer. Unfortunately I don't have duct vents all I have is radiator heat so we have been turning on heat to get house warm then. Using stove to maintain temp.. Just trying anything to get this baby working. I just bought a IR therm from harbor freight tools,.. Can't believe how off magnetic therm was
 
I have a C450 with an insulated top cap and block off plate and the thing will run you out of the room it is in. For me the key was establishing a good initial base fire and proceed from there (Thanks to Brent's guidance). I never need to crack the door other than when I first light it off.
 
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What do u mean by splits and secondaries sorry I'm not to familiar with the lingo.. Fire is going pretty well right now have it at around 375 and rising .. It's burning pretty quickly with the damper fully open
Splits , how many logs do you load in
Secondaries, when the temp is hot enough it burns gas that wood gives off. Looks like the flames are burning on top of wood
 
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