Insert Performance

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cmarc

Member
Oct 25, 2015
37
Greenville, SC
Hi Everyone,

I'm relatively new to inserts and have a few questions. I had a QF Voyageur Grand installed just before Thanksgiving. I had a SS insulated liner put in my 30' exterior chimney. So far I love it but have some questions.

After reloading I move my burn rate control all the way up (open according to the docs) and set the ACC (which seems to do nothing). If I lower the burn rate control all the way closed while it's in the middle of a burn with large flames, how noticeable should the change be and after how long? Most of the time I don't notice much of a change.

Last weekend I did an all weekend burn and heated the entire house without issue. Using the same stock of wood I'm doing the same but my fire doesn't seem very hot, my burn times seem shorter and the house is definitely cooler. The only difference is its about 10 degrees cooler outside this weekend. What could cause such a noticeable change in performance?

I wasn't present when the insert was installed so I don't know what it looks like behind the surround or if there are any intake covers that need to be removed or reinstalled. But the installer left 2 corner brackets each with holes drilled up one side and a metal piece with a large hole in the top center and two smaller holes on each side.

Maybe it's totally normal, but thought I'd bounce it off of folks with a lot more experience.
 
It could be that the stove is performing equally but the demand to replace heat loss in the house is much greater. How large is the house? Does it have high ceilings and a lot of window area?

Or it could be the wood. When was the firewood cut, split and stacked?
 
The house is 2250 sq ft. 1200 downstairs. The ceilings are 7.5ft with the only opening to the upstairs being the foyer with stairs. The house does have a lot of window area.

The wood I'm burning now is a big lot of kiln dried splits with 10-12% moisture.
 
i'm not positive, but i assume the ACC only works for starting the fireplace from a cold start. at least that's what i assume with my northstar unit...
 
What about an overdraft problem when it's really cold? Reading a bit more on the forum. I'm wondering if my perceived reduced heat output, reduced burn times and not seeing sizable changes between air control full open vs full closed could be related sucking it out the chimney?
 
In my experience with my 4100i with ACC I find i need to prevent myself from being impatient with her. The grand voyager is the same design except almost all of your stove is inside the opening and mine sticks out a bit.

When I am impatient and pull the ACC and set the intake control to where i want it to be too soon I end up with a less than desirable burn. When I am patient I end up with a more desirable burn. When I am patient I end up loading her up and letting her get to a good burn and either pull to override the ACC if she is going a bit more than I like or pull the ACC when she is burning at an acceptable level and set my air intake to where I want it to be. When I override the ACC I step down the air intake in stages until I get it to my desired firebox temperature.

As far as burn times and what not it varies by wood species and how you load the stove which is discussed at length in the various posts in this forum.

The brackets you speak of are leg extensions used to level your unit. I do not know the round piece

Something that helped my stove with heat output was insulating with roxul behind and around the unit if space allows.

Is there a block off plate? If there is thats good. If there isnt then you may be losing considerable heat going up around your liner especially with most of your stoves heating mass being inside the fireplace.

Right now I am experimenting with blower speed and observing the differences at speeds as it pertains to firebox temperature and heat output. Right now I am settling on just about half fan speed for my desired needs.

These things are a learning process that takes in my case 2 years and good wood supply to get to learn. But most of my knowledge and ideas have come from lurking on this forum that is a wealth of information.

Good luck and I hope this helps.
 
Thank you Crizzoft, your post was extremely helpful. I just checked and found two things: No block off plate and plenty of room around the stove for insulation. Looks like I've got a couple of spring projects. Hopefully this helps throw some additional heat into the house.

Your input on the ACC was also very helpful. I don't really see any difference with the look of the flames whether I have it all the way in our all the way out, but I believe I'm too impatient. I do see if I lower the burn rate control all the way down the flames go from extremely fast to almost a bit of a slow motion effect, but unlike some folks here imply, I'm not able to tamp the flames all the way down. But as you said, it's a learning process.

Thanks again for everyone's input.
 
Thank you Crizzoft, your post was extremely helpful. I just checked and found two things: No block off plate and plenty of room around the stove for insulation. Looks like I've got a couple of spring projects. Hopefully this helps throw some additional heat into the house.

Your input on the ACC was also very helpful. I don't really see any difference with the look of the flames whether I have it all the way in our all the way out, but I believe I'm too impatient. I do see if I lower the burn rate control all the way down the flames go from extremely fast to almost a bit of a slow motion effect, but unlike some folks here imply, I'm not able to tamp the flames all the way down. But as you said, it's a learning process.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

I also just had the Voyageur Grand installed in early Dec. and am still learning it. But the ACC definitely makes a big difference, assuming the vent is clear of ash and coals. The ACC lets air come in the bottom center of the fire box, there is a little wedge shaped piece. If that is clear, when you open the ACC you should see it actually blowing on the coals, almost like a little blast furnace. I also agree that you need to be patient. I leave all the air all the way open until it is a good roaring fire, and then pull out the ACC (which when you do that it actually takes 20 minutes to close, so no immediate change...) and turn down the upper air control to about half way.

If things seem to smolder out and stop burning, I usually just push the ACC in and pull it out again, which activates that 20 minute timer and the flames jump right up again. Also, if I lower the burn rate control, the bright orange flames usually slow down considerably and turn a more bluish color.
 
Thank you Crizzoft, your post was extremely helpful. I just checked and found two things: No block off plate and plenty of room around the stove for insulation. Looks like I've got a couple of spring projects.
I would recommend that you stuff some insulation up near the block off plate for the time being. It'll increase your heat output significantly. The 10 degree difference is huge considering the volume of air that in between the chimney and your liner, as well as within the firebox. Just remember, hot air rises.
 
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