I am installing a large wood insert about 22 X 24 by 33 deep. It will stick out about 13 inches. the fireplace drop about 3/4 in below the marble hearth. I assume I need to build the floor of the fireplace up the 3/4 of an in. Or should I elevate it off the marble hearth? Where can I get 3/4 or 1in thick fire brick?? Thanks for your help.
instaling a wood fireplace insert
- Thread starter harryskydives
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You can build it up with any non combustible materials. a sheet of 1/2" along with a sheet of 1/4" Durock would do the trick.
No the hearth will extend only about 3 inches past the doors. We are going to build a tile mat about 18 in X 4ft wide in front of the stove. But what I am wondering about: is it all right for the stove to sit on the marble hearth? or should I have a little clearance between the hearth and stove bottom. Thanks.Jim Walsh said:
Good question. I bought this off Craigslist from some one remodeling his home. I did not think to ask for a manuel. I will. But I am sort of worried about the marble getting too hot and cracking, or some one burning themself on the hearth... ThanksJim Walsh said:
harryskydives said:
If you know the make/model, find the website of the manufacturer and often they have the manual you need in PDF form.
I think before you make any decisions as per the hearth, I would find the specs and then go from there.
Welcome to the hearth Harry. I agree with Jim, check the manual for the insert. If you're having trouble finding it, let us know what kind it is and maybe we can help.
Aside from that, the surface should be level and flat. The way I read your description, it sounds like the floor of the existing fireplace is lower than the marble; is that correct? I'm also curious as to why the insert will stick out of the firebox 13", that sounds like quite a bit to me. Is it due to the depth of the existing fireplace? Also, I'm assuming that the existing fireplace is masonry and not a pre-fab or zero clearance unit; is that correct?
I don't want to come across wrong with all the questions, but the main goal here is a safe installation; along with passing on any tips to make things go easier.
Tell us about the chimney. Is it interior or exterior, masonry (clay) flue or metal? About how tall is it? Have you had it and the fireplace inspected? Are you planning to fully line the chimney?
Again, I know it's a lot of questions, but I also want to point out that there are a fair number of things to consider; especially when installing a used insert without a manual.
Keep the answers and questions coming, there are a lot of good, knowledgeable people here to help.
Aside from that, the surface should be level and flat. The way I read your description, it sounds like the floor of the existing fireplace is lower than the marble; is that correct? I'm also curious as to why the insert will stick out of the firebox 13", that sounds like quite a bit to me. Is it due to the depth of the existing fireplace? Also, I'm assuming that the existing fireplace is masonry and not a pre-fab or zero clearance unit; is that correct?
I don't want to come across wrong with all the questions, but the main goal here is a safe installation; along with passing on any tips to make things go easier.
Tell us about the chimney. Is it interior or exterior, masonry (clay) flue or metal? About how tall is it? Have you had it and the fireplace inspected? Are you planning to fully line the chimney?
Again, I know it's a lot of questions, but I also want to point out that there are a fair number of things to consider; especially when installing a used insert without a manual.
Keep the answers and questions coming, there are a lot of good, knowledgeable people here to help.
The marble hearth should be fine from a heat standpoint. Although you may want to consider some type of protection as you move the beast into the fireplace opening. Marble is relatively soft and once the insert is on the hearth, it's usually a sliding game to get it into place. You wouldn't want to scratch up a nice piece of stone.
There is an old thread here on H dot C:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/QA_Templates/info/1304/
and a recent thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/10746/#123336
Maybe you can see if you can get a copy of the specs from one of the original posters. I remember that Fishers were VERY popular stoves/inserts. I am surprised they didn't survive over the years.
This is what I also found on:
(broken link removed to http://www.northweststoves.ca/faq.html)
Where can I find Fisher Stoves?
Fisher Stoves were designed by Bob Fisher in Springfield, Oregon in the early seventies. Bobby licensed the design to about 25 steel fabricating shops throughout USA and Canada. The woodstove brand took off because of the Arab Oil crisis and lots of stoves exist in North America. The stoves had a step top which was made out of 5/16" steel and 1/4" steel sides.
Safety standards at UL (Underwriters Laboratories) and CSA (Canadian Standards Associations) were pioneered by the Fisher Stove International organization. Most of these safety standards were finalized in 1980 but thousands of Fisher Stoves were built before that date. These stoves sold prior to 1980 were primarily installed using the building codes of the day. Most insurance companies are now requesting that if you are moving into a new house that has an old woodstove that it you check to see if the stove has a UL, CSA, or WH (Warnock Hersey) label on the back of your stove. This label indicates that the stove was manufactured to the USA or Canadian standards.
If you have a Fisher stove that does not have a label then it is usually recommended by the insurance company that you do not use the stove. On the other hand if you don’t care about the insurance company and are using in a cabin or something a good rule of thumb is to have a 36 inch clearance from the stove to a combustible wall.
Another reason you should consider replacing the old wood stove is the in the mid-eighties the industry developed clean burning standards. An old Fisher Stove could put out 50 to 80 grams of smoke for every kilogram of wood burned while a new clean burning EPA stove will put out less than 6 grams for every kilogram (2.2 lbs) burned.
Fisher Stoves are not manufactured in North America anymore. Parts are not really available and we have been encouraging owners to up grade to new EPA clean burning stoves.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/QA_Templates/info/1304/
and a recent thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/10746/#123336
Maybe you can see if you can get a copy of the specs from one of the original posters. I remember that Fishers were VERY popular stoves/inserts. I am surprised they didn't survive over the years.
This is what I also found on:
(broken link removed to http://www.northweststoves.ca/faq.html)
Where can I find Fisher Stoves?
Fisher Stoves were designed by Bob Fisher in Springfield, Oregon in the early seventies. Bobby licensed the design to about 25 steel fabricating shops throughout USA and Canada. The woodstove brand took off because of the Arab Oil crisis and lots of stoves exist in North America. The stoves had a step top which was made out of 5/16" steel and 1/4" steel sides.
Safety standards at UL (Underwriters Laboratories) and CSA (Canadian Standards Associations) were pioneered by the Fisher Stove International organization. Most of these safety standards were finalized in 1980 but thousands of Fisher Stoves were built before that date. These stoves sold prior to 1980 were primarily installed using the building codes of the day. Most insurance companies are now requesting that if you are moving into a new house that has an old woodstove that it you check to see if the stove has a UL, CSA, or WH (Warnock Hersey) label on the back of your stove. This label indicates that the stove was manufactured to the USA or Canadian standards.
If you have a Fisher stove that does not have a label then it is usually recommended by the insurance company that you do not use the stove. On the other hand if you don’t care about the insurance company and are using in a cabin or something a good rule of thumb is to have a 36 inch clearance from the stove to a combustible wall.
Another reason you should consider replacing the old wood stove is the in the mid-eighties the industry developed clean burning standards. An old Fisher Stove could put out 50 to 80 grams of smoke for every kilogram of wood burned while a new clean burning EPA stove will put out less than 6 grams for every kilogram (2.2 lbs) burned.
Fisher Stoves are not manufactured in North America anymore. Parts are not really available and we have been encouraging owners to up grade to new EPA clean burning stoves.
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