Install stove in this roof valley? Or near it....

[webbie]

OK, here it is....

about the only place in my house where it seems possible to install a wood stove - something like the morso with the close (8 or 10") clearances.

You can get a visual by seeing where those two windows end on the outside (left side) - and inside (right side) - the stove would be in the place of that 3 drawer table.

What say you all? Is this just too tough, and I should stay with the gas fireplace and pellet unit in the shop? Or can it be done fairly easily? This is the rear of the house, so not too much concern about the pipe extending high on the outside.

Plumbing vent shown from inside is also visible from outside (for reference)

 

[webbie]

Roof is 12/12 and snow tends to slide right off it.....if that matters.

 

[babalu87]

It will be just like any other through the roof install with more cutting, measuring and planning

You're going to have to go pretty high with the chimney to get the 3' / 10' rule arent you?

 

[mtalea]

From a structural stand point there is nothing wrong with that. You are far enough away from the valley to worry about any leaking.

 

[Shane]

Looks like you'll have to offset the chimney once you get into the attic. Other than that looks like a typical install. With that snow slide and being that far down from the peak maybe some sort of ice dam would be in order to divert the brunt of the snow from the chimney. Last year we put in a Sequoia down hll like that. Told contractor that some sort fof diversionary device needed to be installed when they put the roof on a week later. 2 weeks and 2ft of snow later we replaced a bunch of smashed chimney. Some dense packed duratech or the like would have fared alot better than the SUPER HIGH QUALITY majestic chimney but would still need that dam in my opinion.

 

[webbie]

Thanks.....yes, the chimney will have to go past that peak for certain. At least 10 feet after it comes out the top of the flashing, maybe more. I was also considering building a wood chase around it at some point - that would entail cutting in the bottom of this chase during installation, and maybe just running it a few feet up now - with a flat flashing on top of it. Then I could put an extendaflue (just the castings surrounding the pipe) on top of "stone look" chase eventually, and have something which would look pretty nice.

Dang, I wish I had Dan around (my installer for 20+ years) - he would not even flinch. A perfectionist, without even trying.

This is one of those jobs where I would have to have a PILE of chimney fittings and lengths to get things right once I got going. Using a 30 degree could probably get me even a little further up the roof, which would be nice.

 

[Todd]

I say go for it. Webmaster of Hearthnet needs a wood stove.

 

[webbie]

As if he was reading my mind, a customer just sent me pics of his extendaflue on a tall chimney with a steep roof.

See enclosed......

Looks pretty good - that is something like a chase would look like around mine.

 

[mtalea]

Ya sounds good.If you plan on making a zero clearance chimney make sure you use 3/4" cdx and scratch coat it right away. Also use only copper flashing for a 50 year life span...40 year for lead.. 10-20 for aluminum...and use Ice and water shield on roog and going up the walls alil of the made chimney. before the copper flashing. Done is Done!

 

[seaken]

If you can move the chimney up the roof it would be preferable. May require an offset in the connector in the room. I like the chase idea. Also, I would add a "cricket" to help divert snow pack and ice.

Sean

 

[Shane]

Yeah a chase would definately be a great idea in this situation. Aesthetically and structurally it would be the proper solution. I'll have to take a picture of the extendaflue that we put in here in Casper. Not a great looking house or chimney but it looks alot better with the extendaflue. There are some old houses downtown with some shabby home made caps that are begging for the extendaflue treatment.

 

[mtalea]

100% agree...a cricket on back of zero clearance is the only way to divert and protect the roof from build up

 

[Hogwildz]

Your fine at that spot, as long as you can get your way through both sets of rafters. Try and keep it as far from the valley as possible. Just don't go through the valley.
I'd say stay at least 12" + away from center of valley. And don't skip on a nice size flashing pan. I personally would rather go taller on chimney than offsetting if possible. Thats just my opinion of course.

I do have a question I don't remember seeing here in the forums, if it was covered my apologies................
Is that a soil pipe on the roof to left? And if so, what is code/ common sense when it comes to having a burning appliance chimney near where a soil pipe vents gas out?
Is there a recommended distance between the two? If one has a septic system, I am assuming methane gas is coming out the soil pipe? Whats the chances of a spark or high enough heat coming from the chimney, igniting the gas from the soil pipe in say a no wind day where the gas might linger? Just curious?

 

[webbie]

Hmm...now I need a roofer, a flasher and a carpenter........ I am only the third one.

Having a PITA place to work only compounds things. I could do the job if I was just standing there on a scaffold, etc.

One of our early ideas (maybe I can think about this again) was to build in a masonry heater on that wall-----A foundation would not be too hard to put in, and then we'd have a masonry structure all the way up. But I definitely don't have more than about 2 feet total that I can come out into the room - and then maybe a flush hearth. It would cost me big, but it would be a nice thing also. I would go for about 15K if it would cover it, but unless I get a friendly mason or trade for some Hearth.com ads and promo, I don't think that will cover it.

 

[webbie]

Your fine at that spot, as long as you can get your way through both sets of rafters. Try and keep it as far from the valley as possible. Just don't go through the valley.
I'd say stay at least 12" + away from center of valley. And don't skip on a nice size flashing pan. I personally would rather go taller on chimney than offsetting if possible. Thats just my opinion of course.

I do have a question I don't remember seeing here in the forums, if it was covered my apologies................
Is that a soil pipe on the roof to left? And if so, what is code/ common sense when it comes to having a burning appliance chimney near where a soil pipe vents gas out?
Is there a recommended distance between the two? If one has a septic system, I am assuming methane gas is coming out the soil pipe? Whats the chances of a spark or high enough heat coming from the chimney, igniting the gas from the soil pipe in say a no wind day where the gas might linger? Just curious?

Never saw that addressed. Aren't vents "combined" these days.....for instance, that powder room has a sink and head, and then there is a laundry room behind it with washer and sink. I only see this this one vent!

 

[mtalea]

To build a zero clearance chimney is easy...a remodeler can do it all for ya...I am a remodeler,I build ,roof,siding etc.
2 trades is all thats needed..a carpener to build the chimney and patch back in the roof and flashing...and a mason to do the cultured stone or thin brick veneer for ya....cost shouldnt be more than 4k..+/- . Not including the pipe work stove etc.

 

[Hogwildz]

Your fine at that spot, as long as you can get your way through both sets of rafters. Try and keep it as far from the valley as possible. Just don't go through the valley.
I'd say stay at least 12" + away from center of valley. And don't skip on a nice size flashing pan. I personally would rather go taller on chimney than offsetting if possible. Thats just my opinion of course.

I do have a question I don't remember seeing here in the forums, if it was covered my apologies................
Is that a soil pipe on the roof to left? And if so, what is code/ common sense when it comes to having a burning appliance chimney near where a soil pipe vents gas out?
Is there a recommended distance between the two? If one has a septic system, I am assuming methane gas is coming out the soil pipe? Whats the chances of a spark or high enough heat coming from the chimney, igniting the gas from the soil pipe in say a no wind day where the gas might linger? Just curious?

Never saw that addressed. Aren't vents "combined" these days.....for instance, that powder room has a sink and head, and then there is a laundry room behind it with washer and sink. I only see this this one vent!

Yes most "stink" pipes as I callem are combined. Usually one does a house, sometimes two or more depending on layout & how many bathrooms etc.
My house I think is stretched thin, with 1 vent out the side wall on second level. The septic tank also has a vent pipe on it. Not sure how right that is. But it works and I am afraid to change anything. If it works, don't fix it rule. A roof is also the flasher. If he can't flash, he aint a roofer. And the only place he should caulk is around the storm collar. Some with embed the base flashing on the roof in muck. But, if/when you need a new roof, it will be a PITA to get back up & messy. Id he shingles around it correctly, he should use no caulk where the shingle are cut around the base. The caulk will only crack and/or peel in time.

Oh and a 12/12 is going to take roof jacks & a plank. No biggie. take shingles off area where pipe comes through, but a lil wider. Cut hole out in deck, run pipe, put first couple courses of shingles on under base flashing, put on base flashing, finish shingling, install storm collar & caulk, install cap. Done. That will most likely be a good sized base flashing to handle that pitch of roof. Keep that in mind when you set your spot, or use the base flashing as a template.

 

[Hogwildz]

As if he was reading my mind, a customer just sent me pics of his extendaflue on a tall chimney with a steep roof.

See enclosed......

Looks pretty good - that is something like a chase would look like around mine.

Beautiful house & same for the metal roof. Notice metal roof........... not gutters. Smart homeowner.