Installation Estimate

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Can someone educate me on the chimney pipe? GA vs SS? Galvanized vs Stainless? So 12 ft will be GA and only 4 ft will be SS. Assume the SS is what is exposed on roof to the outside elements?
 
What manufacturer are they using for the install? Those prices in general seem more expensive than they otherwise should be.

I'm also not seeing any double wall stove pipe on the princess quote.

$75 dollars for a tube of silicone???

I'd shop around for quotes at the very least.

I see the parts are a little marked up, but as someone else said, they have to make money. Plus shipping these parts would add up too.

https://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chim...ll/8-inch-DuraTech-Stainless-Steel-Components

$396.24 from shop. $351.52 + tax and shipping online. Seems reasonable, no?
 
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I made some quick edits to my last post, seems you were quicker. Galvalum is what I'd use below the roofline. You can use one or the other all the way through, though most enjoy the polished look of the stainless on the exterior.
 
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What manufacturer are they using for the install? Those prices in general seem more expensive than they otherwise should be.

I'm also not seeing any double wall stove pipe on the princess quote.

$75 dollars for a tube of silicone???

I'd shop around for quotes at the very least.

Good catch on the princess. These guys have had a couple of human errors on the quotes, one being that silicone. Glad you guys are double checking for me. I will post fixed estimates.

Unfortunately, they're the only BK carrier in Kentucky (mostly thanks to me as I convinced the shop owner to pick them up). And no other installer in this state will install a chimney for you unless you buy from their lines of stove. ~shrugs~
 
Ok, I'm just going to post the revised King quote because I'm 99% sure that's the stove I'm going to get. Subtract the $477 for the Ember King mat because that's just silly. I'm not getting that.
 

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Also, because of the clearance on the existing chimney, the installer said double wall would have to be used for the stove pipe. Not sure how much clearance stove pipe needs. Here are some recent photos after I tore the drywall out. The HVAC ductwork is getting rerouted soon.

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All,

The shop replied to my offset question whether the stove could fit in the corner. They stated:

You can do an offset to move the stove towards the corner but there doesn't appear to be enough ceiling height to allow you to get all the way to the corner. At most, you're looking at being able to offset it about 10.5" from the center of where the pipe is currently. To get a longer offset and stay within the minimum 2' height above the stove before the elbow you have to have more height. They recommend having 3' of straight pipe before an elbow and we will already be below that.

My question for y'all is, is there any point in this? Sounds like I can only shift the stove towards the corner 10.5". I mean what's the point? I'd like the stove away from the sliding door but whatever. Should I just put the stove right under the pipe and keep everything straight? What about two 90's? Is that possible?

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
10.5 inches is a lot, in the context of getting it away from your door. If it’s going to put the stove closer to where you want it, I’d do it.

Two 90’s is bad juju.
 
10.5 inches is a lot, in the context of getting it away from your door. If it’s going to put the stove closer to where you want it, I’d do it.

Two 90’s is bad juju.

Lol, I don't want bad juju, just curious if anyone on here has had success with two 90's. I think I have like 20 feet of flue after that so wouldn't think drafting would be an issue but I could see sweeping might be a PITA.

Anyone had success with two 90's on their stove pipe??
 
Lol, I don't want bad juju, just curious if anyone on here has had success with two 90's. I think I have like 20 feet of flue after that so wouldn't think drafting would be an issue but I could see sweeping might be a PITA.

Anyone had success with two 90's on their stove pipe??

With that much height, you may get away with it. I think the rule of thumb is that you subtract two feet of effective height with each 90, so if that’s half accurate, it would be like running a 16 foot straight flue. Most favor dual-45’s for offsets, in fact I have that on one of my stoves.
 
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With that much height, you may get away with it. I think the rule of thumb is that you subtract two feet of effective height with each 90, so if that’s half accurate, it would be like running a 16 foot straight flue. Most favor dual-45’s for offsets, in fact I have that on one of my stoves.

Right, but as mentioned above, two 45's would only give me 10.5" of offset. I'm looking for feet, not inches.
 
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Right, but as mentioned above, two 45's would only give me 10.5" of offset. I'm looking for feet, not inches.
It is 3" of loss per 90 and 1 foot of loss in height for every 1" of horizontal run
 
It is 3" of loss per 90 and 1 foot of loss in height for every 1" of horizontal run

Sorry, could you explain this to me in English? lol The basic idea is the flue has to be a certain height in order to accommodate a horizontal run, correct?

So for the sake of simplicity, let's say I need a horizontal run of 3 feet between the two 90's. How high would my flue and chimney need to be to avoid problems?
 
So for the sake of simplicity, let's say I need a horizontal run of 3 feet between the two 90's. How high would my flue and chimney need to be to avoid problems?
That is asking for problems because it will slow down and cool the flue gases and will be no fun to clean. It's not a good idea, especially with a BK. Note that with a straight-up, interior install in a decently tall flue system you do not need to go up a few feet before the first 45º elbow. Though not ideal, it can start right at the stove flue collar if necessary.

How tall will the overall flue system be from stove top to chimney cap?
 
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That is asking for problems because it will slow down and cool the flue gases and will be no fun to clean. It's not a good idea, especially with a BK. Note that with a straight-up, interior install in a decently tall flue system you do not need to go up a few feet before the first 45º elbow. Though not ideal, it can start right at the stove flue collar if necessary.

How tall will the overall flue system be from stove top to chimney cap?

Ok, the shop was telling me you had to go minimum 2 ft up, ideally 3, before the first elbow. I think they were going by the BK manual (see photo). From stove top to chimney cap, I'm estimating 4 ft from top of stove to ceiling box, 8 ft above that through second story bedroom floor (boxed in with chase), 2-3 ft through the attic, and then however tall the chimney needs to be for the 3-2-10 rule so maybe another 4 ft to the cap. So grand total ~19 ft.
 

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Ok, the shop was telling me you had to go minimum 2 ft up, ideally 3, before the first elbow. I think they were going by the BK manual (see photo). From stove top to chimney cap, I'm estimating 4 ft from top of stove to ceiling box, 8 ft above that through second story bedroom floor (boxed in with chase), 2-3 ft through the attic, and then however tall the chimney needs to be for the 3-2-10 rule so maybe another 4 ft to the cap. So grand total ~19 ft.
If you were venting out thru a wall thimble then the BK diagram recommendation is good, though I would still use 45s there instead of the 90. But you are venting straight up. I think with ~20' you will be ok taking the lower 45 much closer to the stove to increase the offset.
 
If you were venting out thru a wall thimble then the BK diagram recommendation is good, though I would still use 45s there instead of the 90. But you are venting straight up. I think with ~20' you will be ok taking the lower 45 much closer to the stove to increase the offset.

Thanks begreen. I sent the following inquiry to the shop.

“I got the HVAC duct moved out of the way today. Should be plenty of clearance now. I checked measurements again now that it’s easier to see the flue. I think a corner install may still be an option. If I measure from the floor up 36” (height of King) and then 2ft above that puts me at 60”. Looks doable to elbow from there over to the flue. Can you attach an elbow directly to the collar of the ceiling support box? Also, are the elbows flexible or are they fixed at 45? The manual for the King says 2ft minimum for a 90 bend. I wonder if a 45 has even lower requirements. Seems to me it would.

Let me know your thoughts. I was thinking it might be best to split the job. Install everything but the stove to see exactly what our options are and what type of hearth pad I need (corner or standard). Once the ceiling support box is in place, we could quickly measure and see what would or would not work. What do you think?”

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I’m not even sure a straight shot is possible considering how close the flue is to the wall. Seems to me thermal protection would have to be installed on the wall or you’d have to shift the stove away from the wall to get clearance which would require to 45 elbows anyway.

Thoughts?
 
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Right now what is in there appears to be floor supported, not a ceiling chimney support. The new support should be flush or slightly below the new ceiling. You would box frame that corner to hold the chimney support so that if can be flush with the new ceiling. That will establish the clearance requirement for the chimney pipe above it which will be 2".

BK states the ideal in the manual, but as long as there is sufficient draft the stove should work ok. I think your system will have enough height to work ok. FWIW we have an offset coming right off the flue collar on our stove and it drafts well on a 20' total flue system. Yes, you can have an elbow attached right at the support box. Most 45º double-wall elbows are not adjustable.
 
Right now what is in there appears to be floor supported, not a ceiling chimney support. The new support should be flush or slightly below the new ceiling. You would box frame that corner to hold the chimney support so that if can be flush with the new ceiling. That will establish the clearance requirement for the chimney pipe above it which will be 2".

BK states the ideal in the manual, but as long as there is sufficient draft the stove should work ok. I think your system will have enough height to work ok. FWIW we have an offset coming right off the flue collar on our stove and it drafts well on a 20' total flue system. Yes, you can have an elbow attached right at the support box. Most 45º double-wall elbows are not adjustable.

This is exactly what I was thinking. Cool.

Yeah, the chimney support box will get framed in and should be flush or close to the new soffit I have to frame in. I don’t see any combustible surface within two inches of that existing flue. Should be fine there. Not to mention the diameter on that thing is a foot, not 8”. So centered, there’s your 2” clearance right there.

You address my main concern and that was drafting. And I didn’t know if using a 45 elbow right on the ceiling support box was okay to do. That will certainly help increase the Dustin ave between the stove collar and other 45 elbow when it comes time to connect them.

We’ll see if the shop will be willing to do it. If not, I’ll just have them install the flue and chimney and I can hook up the stove myself. That’s the easy part after all.
 
I paid nearly 6k for a stove and install. 3500 for stove. 1000 for liner and 1000 for install. Rounding to nearest 500 there.
 

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Keep in mind of the clearances that the stove pipe requires.... The chimney system might be 2" but the stove pipe will be more. It looks really close to the side and you may run into an issue.