After waiting weeks for a Duraliner Tee I finally installed liner and stove myself. Draft seems good, cat lights off easily and glows bright when generating smoke (air shut down) and it's hard to tell if it's even running from the chimney cap. Exhaust is like a dryer vent, moist air but can hardly see it. Basement is currently a mess after removing two walls, drop ceiling and busting a new hole higher for the flue. I have a clean out 20" below the he 90.
The stove does not have anywhere near the output my old Woodchuck 4000 smoke monster had though (going into pole barn. I'll be doing 2" foam board and drywall to cover my exposed block so that should help.
I did have a point where I got nervous temps were creeping up to 680 with only a third of a load. I opened the bypass a few times and watched the cat go from bright orange to fill orange and stt settled down to 650s and cat probe was near the upper end. I'll be installing a damper to help in the future. With the old stove I could shut the draft down 100% and instantly drop temps.
I did get about 8 hours of stt over 500 from a 1/3 of a load and flue temps stayed stable near 400 throughout but I only installed it halfway through.
Ordered aftermarket fan and currently using a small one behind stove to blow air up the back deflector. It's impressive that the back shield is cold to the touch an inch off the main body.
Probably not realistic but I'm a bit paranoid of only two small screws into two small tabs that hold the to the snout. One screw cannot be torqued very tight. That said the pipe is wedged in my chase to the point I don't think it would move even without the clamp at the cap. I also used a single (non slip joint) piece of pipe to the snout to the thimble which is screwed into the brick. This provides positive pressure at the tee connection.
![[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/302/302817-688d9e5a4a7df95f90a9175f88da6b88.jpg?hash=Xqq7yuIsO4 "[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200")
![[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/302/302818-ab44a6118eb527f5644974ae0d8c5366.jpg?hash=siB-EsoSHf "[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200")
![[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/302/302819-09f1dd5034be4c625ea97dd37e018f8c.jpg?hash=6OmkzdY73x "[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200")
![[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/302/302820-91a80ba2f943a2c465764b416323ec8d.jpg?hash=9qazWj7MQO "[Hearth.com] Installed my Regency F5200")
The stove does not have anywhere near the output my old Woodchuck 4000 smoke monster had though (going into pole barn. I'll be doing 2" foam board and drywall to cover my exposed block so that should help.
I did have a point where I got nervous temps were creeping up to 680 with only a third of a load. I opened the bypass a few times and watched the cat go from bright orange to fill orange and stt settled down to 650s and cat probe was near the upper end. I'll be installing a damper to help in the future. With the old stove I could shut the draft down 100% and instantly drop temps.
I did get about 8 hours of stt over 500 from a 1/3 of a load and flue temps stayed stable near 400 throughout but I only installed it halfway through.
Ordered aftermarket fan and currently using a small one behind stove to blow air up the back deflector. It's impressive that the back shield is cold to the touch an inch off the main body.
Probably not realistic but I'm a bit paranoid of only two small screws into two small tabs that hold the to the snout. One screw cannot be torqued very tight. That said the pipe is wedged in my chase to the point I don't think it would move even without the clamp at the cap. I also used a single (non slip joint) piece of pipe to the snout to the thimble which is screwed into the brick. This provides positive pressure at the tee connection.
