Installing a Different Stove to 8" Chimney

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HDRock

Minister of Fire
Oct 25, 2012
2,239
Grand Blanc, Mi
The plan is to run 6" from stove almost to the ceiling then to 8"

With this type of connector ,pic,,(8 down to 6) will the 8" pipe slip into it without being crimped ?

With the new stove ,it won't be a straight shot up ,it will be off set back 6", if I go straight up from the stove, the pipe will not have proper clearance to the wood mantle so, I will need an elbow right off the stove or, tear out the mantel, or put a shield on the SW pipe.
Any other ideas or suggestions ?

snap-lock-black-steel-stovepipe-6-inch-male-to-8-inch-female-increaser-13.jpg
 
How close is it? Could you use double wall pipe to make it instead of single wall?
 
Some pics might help.
 
The pipe there now is actually not 18" from the mantel It's 16" , so a 6" pipe moved back 6" would put it 11" from mantel .
The mantel is 9" out from wall.

Never mind the pipe in the one pic ,I took the pic ,one time when I was taking it apart
Edit : I already have SW 6" pipe and adjustable elbows from stove I took out of pole barn
 

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By the picture it looks like you might have a DuraVent ceiling support. It looks like that single wall pipe is way too close to the mantel. Even with a heat shield it should be 6". If you go with double-wall pipe, you will need an adapter ring for the ceiling support connection.
 
I would just use a pipe shield in front of the mantle, it only needs to have 9" with a shield in place.
 
I thought it was 6" with the shield, 9" for ceilings but could be wrong. Is that incorrect?
 
I thought it was 6" with the shield, 9" for ceilings but could be wrong. Is that incorrect?
I've actually seen both in print. But most often 9" is the published clearance, unless its a listed part or listed double wall. I feel much safer at 9"!
 
By the picture it looks like you might have a DuraVent ceiling support. It looks like that single wall pipe is way too close to the mantel. Even with a heat shield it should be 6". If you go with double-wall pipe, you will need an adapter ring for the ceiling support connection.
The picture is deceiving ,as is, the pipe is 16" from mantel ,It gets to about 125 degrees .
I may change things and go straight up, not sure yet, with a 6" pipe it would be 17" clearance and I could still add a shield .
The main thing I am wondering about is ,what to use to increase from 6" to8" , I may know better once I remove the pipe from the ceiling box , never had it off before.

Seems like if I have it off sit with elbows , It will be a pain to clean out
I thought it was 6" with the shield, 9" for ceilings but could be wrong. Is that incorrect?

In my searches, only thing I have seen is 6" with the shield
 
Oh ya I forgot , in-case I might need an extra piece of chimney pipe to increase draft.
How do I find the brand of chimney pipe I have , I pull the top one off when I clean, and have looked and can't find any thing stamped on it.
I have one pic , not great for an ID though

IMG_20130213_114853.jpg
 
That pic doesn't show much. How bout a shot from the side?
 
I'm "guessing" DuraVent by the twist lock flanges on the end.
 
That pic doesn't show much. How bout a shot from the side?
Ya that's just a pic I had , I will get a better one .
I may not need more chimney pipe but ,trying think ahead just in case
 
Here is the photo you requested of my set-up. This is DBL wall stainless Dura vent into TPL wall DV chimney. The DBL wall stove pipe was only around 200$ shipped but I cannot remember where I ordered it?? Had to replace my 8" pipe. The DBL wall gives you more(or less) clearance to the wall requirements allowing you to possibly get rid if any bend in the pipe as mentioned above.

stove 004.JPG
 
Looks like these I found on CL
View attachment 108661

It's all gonna look "kinda" the same. Vertially all Class A has twist lock ends. Even if it's a little different it likely won't twist together.
I'm guessing it either Dura-Vent, Super-vent, Security, Jakes, Air-Jet, or Metalbestos. ;lol A close up of the joints, male and female ends is what it will take to ID it.
I found a Sticker on my strange chimney down in the ceiling box, it fell off at some point. If you can get in the attic there might be on preserved in there.
 
Here is the photo you requested of my set-up. This is DBL wall stainless Dura vent into TPL wall DV chimney. The DBL wall stove pipe was only around 200$ shipped but I cannot remember where I ordered it?? Had to replace my 8" pipe. The DBL wall gives you more(or less) clearance to the wall requirements allowing you to possibly get rid if any bend in the pipe as mentioned above.

View attachment 108667
Thanks Bob
It looks like maybe this type of increaser was used ,but for DW , is there a slip joint there ?
http://www.northlineexpress.com/chi...8-durablack-6-8-slip-increaser-1860-1860.html
I am going to change the hearth and go straight up, best for draft , and no screwing around with elbows and making it harder to clean.
I think the increaser above will work for me , any one know for sure ???

BTW Bob , the wood storage in your hearth is way cool, love it
 
It's all gonna look "kinda" the same. Vertially all Class A has twist lock ends. Even if it's a little different it likely won't twist together.
I'm guessing it either Dura-Vent, Super-vent, Security, Jakes, Air-Jet, or Metalbestos. ;lol A close up of the joints, male and female ends is what it will take to ID it.
I found a Sticker on my strange chimney down in the ceiling box, it fell off at some point. If you can get in the attic there might be on preserved in there.
Well then ,the manufacture doesn't stamp anything on the pipe, no part number or anything ;?
 
My increaser/reducer just slips onto the chimney pipe. I have it attached with 3 screws. Best to drill a small pilot hole for the screws with this so you are sure you are actually penetrating the inside layers and not pushing/bending them. The only slight issue I have with my set up is that I clean from the bottom up and figured out it is easier to just force an 8" brush through the reducer than to take all the screws out and monkey with it that way. Also note that your DBL wall stove pipe looks like it sits high where it meets the stove. This is by design to let air flow between the inner and outer pipes. Some think this is ugly or looks unfinished - personally I don't mind at all. I am going to buy an 8" poly brush this fall because, as I understand, they are more flexible than the steel brushes and will make getting through the reducer a little easier. That is unless someone here has one they are no longer using and wants to ship it my way :)
 
The ceiling support box should determine your chimney manufacturer. Remove the current interior piping and look at it closely. Take a couple sharp close-up shots and post them too. The female end of the chimney pipe is also an indicator as it is often more different looking than the male end of the pipe.
 
The ceiling support box should determine your chimney manufacturer. Remove the current interior piping and look at it closely. Take a couple sharp close-up shots and post them too. The female end of the chimney pipe is also an indicator as it is often more different looking than the male end of the pipe.
I figured I would have a better idea once I get the 8" pipe out of the ceiling box , I haven't done that yet cuz I have to look at the lopi yet to be sure I am getting it but
Here is pics of top chimney pipe

DSCI0451.JPGDSCI0452.JPGDSCI0450.JPG
 
That looks like DuraVent to me. I think I have a length out in the garage. Will go and double-check.
 
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