installing my new stove - Jotul F3CB

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burr

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 26, 2008
96
SC near ClarksHillLake
I am installing a freestanding Jotul woodstove and would like to use double wall up to the conversion box at ceiling.
Having a standard 8ft ceiling height, I would use 2ea 24" lengths and would be left with approximately 21" to reach the box. Does factory make custom length pipe for these situations ? Or can I cut a 2ft piece to fit ?
I would much rather have a fit piece than to use a telescopic for this length. (plus a telescopic is single wall, yes? and I don't know if single wall fits up to double wall, or does it?). as far as I know anyway.

I am using double wall stove pipe as according what I've read; the stainless hotface stays hotter which creates better draft conditions. and I am not going to have the required height Jotul is asking (15ft), maybe 13ft.

Originally, I planned on making a step-up hearth a couple brick high or so so I wouldn't have to get down on the floor to play with my stove. It seems that Jotul requires more vertical draft for this stove than I have or ever planned. It is no more than 7ft to get outside onto the roof from a stove placed on the floor. On a 4/12 roofline and almost flat roof at the chimney (imagine a shed roof coming off the 4/12 house roof), I s'pose 6ft chimney will be my limit. Still, I will be short of the 15ft Jotul recommends but I see no other way at this point.
 
It is my understanding that you are not supposed to cut the double wall to length.
They do make telescoping in double wall.
This particular piece adjusts up to 68" long, in one length. Might be all you need.

 
Use a telescoping section of double-wall stovepipe that matches the brand of the chimney support box for the easiest install.
 
Thank you for this simple solution, I did not know telescoping flue could cover this entire interior length to the chimney support box. Wow, it'll be one piece. The Northline Express offer is awful good (free shipping too), except no brand name is shown and I agree keeping brands consistent would assure a proper fit. I will pursue.
 
Thank you for this simple solution, I did not know telescoping flue could cover this entire interior length to the chimney support box. Wow, it'll be one piece. The Northline Express offer is awful good (free shipping too), except no brand name is shown and I agree keeping brands consistent would assure a proper fit. I will pursue.
What brand is the chimney pipe and support box?
 
I am yet to purchase anything from stove up. As you all are suggesting, it is giving me detailed ideas and direction. It's a very basic install and now I've got more confidence of it going in correctly.

Originally, I was looking at product that our local bigbox offered thru mail order - and that is Lowes / Duravent. I definitely will compare $$ with yalls' suggestions when I order (I am no Lowes fan).

again, thanks. I love this site and probably should be up where the weather is better suited for the wood stove life.
 
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With a shorter flue system the stove choice is important. Many Jotul stoves prefer a 15+ ft chimney to perform properly. That said I have run the F3CB on a 12ft stack with success. I would not have had good luck doing this with the F400 or F500. In big box store stoves, Drolet stoves work ok on a bit shorter chimneys.
 
Sorry, a little long ...

So, bringing this thread back, a re-cap. I purchased a Jotul F3CB last September, about a year ago, and due to circumstances have not installed yet. I am purchasing flue/chimney parts now and hoping to assemble and finish installation before the cold months for use and enjoyment. I live in South Carolina so constant and daily use of the stove is not required but periodic use is certainly expected.

Plans are to use double wall flue in order to keep hottest flue temps as possible for draft. With a distance of 6ft to roof from top of stove, I would need 9ft of chimney pipe to achieve 15ft required by Jotul. That is not in the plans, word from here last year gives hope that with care, I can get by with a little less chimney.

I have purchased DuraVent brand flue parts and that is my question. Jotul is not easy to get in touch with so I am coming to you all (you have been very informative for me).

The fit from stove collar to flue is started with a 'stove to double wall stovepipe adaptor'. This piece does not have (what I consider) a proper fit to the collar. As I am familiar with, the male/female fit is tight, compressed and sorta forced fit and then screwed with small sheet metal screws. The fit provided here is slop, maybe 1/4" gap. The male end is considerably small for the collar opening. And also, this fit bottoms out on 4 tabs around the base of the collar. So the fit is not flush wih top of collar (about 3/4" gap from stovetop or collar to adaptor).

It don't seem right. Especially if one considers the $$ invested. I expect a smooth transition stove to ceiling and beyond. I've been told to use stove cement to fill the gap and trim the male end around the tabs for the final fit. Huh ? Is this how far this industry has come (from my last Buck 28000 slam and jam installation) ?
 
Does the DVL stovepipe fit into the stove collar without the adapter? Stove cement will just crack and fall out. If the adapter is a necessity, the crimping can sometimes be smoothed out to make the fit tighter. Fill the gap with stove door gasket material or if only 1/8" with flat stove gasket like what is used on stove door glass.
 
Thanks for your knowledge and reply. I have not yet taken the telescoping piece out but I will now and get back. I have tried the adaptor without the collar, and it is a hair too large to fit inside of this opening. This would be stove top without the collar. I'll see about this fluepipe fit.

I noticed below this thread where other 'related threads' are listed and the first one is a very similar sounding situation except a rear flue instead of top, and Selkirk instead of Duravent.
 
hmm, that may work. None of the holes line up, and the collar is off the stove (so I'm not sure about the finish fit and look) but the flue fits into the collar nice and tightly.

Ima try to figure out how to post photos and get back.
 
hmm, that may work. None of the holes line up, and the collar is off the stove (so I'm not sure about the finish fit and look) but the flue fits into the collar nice and tightly.

Ima try to figure out how to post photos and get back.
Our stove didn't need the DVL adapter, but I did have to drill new holes to tap into the stovepipe.
 
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yes, that is the part shown by EbS-P. All $55 worth. I think that direct attachment to collar from telescoping 6" doulble wall flue will be a 'professional install'.

Now, let's talk about the other end of the flue, the 'ceiling support box'. I have been directed (and ordered, delivered, and paid for) to use the 'stovepipe/chimney pipe adaptor trim' BEFORE the 'flat ceiling support box', which guides pipe through ceiling and transitions to chimney pipe, providing protective distance from flammable situation. I wonder if I need BOTH these parts or go straight to the support box (which seems to have the transitions and finish for proper fit).

And while we are studying the 'flat ceiling support box', why are they 12" when I am working a 16" center joisting.

and once again, you all are a great support, thank you.
 
And while we are studying the 'flat ceiling support box', why are they 12" when I am working a 16" center joisting.
LOL, because joist spacings vary and 12" is the minimum necessary to maintain the 2" clearance requirement.

There are two adapter options to transition from the DVL to the chimney support box. The 6DVL-ADC is an improved version of the original stainless sleeve adapter. The 6DVL-ADT is a stouter version which I like better. It affords a more solid joint and screw connection. Both will get the job done.
 
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Our stove didn't need the DVL adapter, but I did have to drill new holes to tap into the stovepipe.
yes, and the fluepipe is such a tight fit, I'll have to make cuts (probably 4) to get it to tap down on the collar and meet the stove top.
 
I recrimped it with a crimping tool a couple of times and that worked well for a snug fit.