Installing NC30. A little help on a basic install, please?

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MrBrown80

New Member
Oct 28, 2018
20
Rhode Island
I've got everything I need to finish installation on my NC30, but I haven't done this before. I was hoping for some help clarifying some basic things that have been hard to find on a search for some reason. It seems to be a clear case of "this is so basic no one talks about it."

As you can see from the pictures, I'm installing in a hearth and then into the wall connected to the chimney. The stove is replacing another one that was previously installed.

How close can I get to the wall? The manual lists some clearances, but I'm not sure that applies since I have a real stone wall (one foot thick). On the other hand there is wood paneling next to it, so maybe I want to have a particular clearance anyway.

My other question relates to connecting into the wood stove itself. Does the crimped side go directly into the top of the stove itself, or can the uncrimped side rest on the lip?

I also have a 12" slip to go with the 24" pipe to get enough length. Does the slip go above or below the pipe? Does it matter in which direction? Are screws used with this piece?

Lastly, I'm putting in a damper. Does it matter where along the pipe it's installed?

Thanks for your help! Again, I know this is pretty elementary but haven't been able to find instructions.
 

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Clearances is to combustibles, when putting the pipe together picture water running down the pipe, you want the water to stay in, so the bottom always goes inside the top piece.
 
What is behind the stone wall?
 
I'm not entirely sure. I know it's real stone one foot deep. Behind it looks like some stucco, and then probably the foundation or the outer wall of the house.
You really need to know if there are any combustibles in that wall at all.
 
Does that mean I can get as close as I want?
If theres no combustibles behind the stone, you have to honor clearances to that paneling.
 
If theres no combustibles behind the stone, you have to honor clearances to that paneling.

The manual asks for 16" from the stove to combustible materials. If the back of the stove were all the way up against the wall (I wouldn't do that, but in theory) it would be 16" from the edge of the stove to the wood paneling. So I think the paneling is a non-issue, correct?
 
Op, did you read item #12 on page 12 of the 30-NC Installation manual?
 
Op, did you read item #12 on page 12 of the 30-NC Installation manual?

I did not. Thank you for pointing this out. For reference for observers:

"12. A damper is not required in this installation. Remove the damper plate in the chimney or secure it in the OPEN position."

I'm surprised to see this. Does this mean that a damper is simply optional or something I should avoid completely? Sounds like the latter.

I thought a damper was an important thing for efficiency once the stove was going and for safety should you need to close the fire down. I guess I'm missing something? Happy to skip it if it's really not an issue. I know the previous owner did not have one installed come to think of it.
 
The manual asks for 16" from the stove to combustible materials. If the back of the stove were all the way up against the wall (I wouldn't do that, but in theory) it would be 16" from the edge of the stove to the wood paneling. So I think the paneling is a non-issue, correct?
You still need to find out if there are any combustibles in that wall to see if the wall pass through is safe.
 
I did not. Thank you for pointing this out. For reference for observers:

"12. A damper is not required in this installation. Remove the damper plate in the chimney or secure it in the OPEN position."

I'm surprised to see this. Does this mean that a damper is simply optional or something I should avoid completely? Sounds like the latter.

I thought a damper was an important thing for efficiency once the stove was going and for safety should you need to close the fire down. I guess I'm missing something? Happy to skip it if it's really not an issue. I know the previous owner did not have one installed come to think of it.

Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it...
 
I have no damper above my nc30, never regretted not having one. You can always add it later.
 
I did not. Thank you for pointing this out. For reference for observers:

"12. A damper is not required in this installation. Remove the damper plate in the chimney or secure it in the OPEN position."

I'm surprised to see this. Does this mean that a damper is simply optional or something I should avoid completely? Sounds like the latter.

I thought a damper was an important thing for efficiency once the stove was going and for safety should you need to close the fire down. I guess I'm missing something? Happy to skip it if it's really not an issue. I know the previous owner did not have one installed come to think of it.

I think it's situational. In a previous thread, the Englander guy recommended you only have one if you have a pretty high chimney pipe, like +30' or so. How high is your chimney from the ground to the top?
 
I think it's situational. In a previous thread, the Englander guy recommended you only have one if you have a pretty high chimney pipe, like +30' or so. How high is your chimney from the ground to the top?

I'm not certain exactly, but I think the chimney is about 21', and the top of the stove would be another three feet or so below that in the basement.

One possible consideration is that my chimney is 8" and has to be reduced to 6 with an adapter in the basement. I don't know if that might give additional utility to a damper?
 
Another thing you might try is to call the Englander Tech line and ask. The one time I did it they were very helpful.

Good luck!
 
What is behind the stone wall?

Ok. So I didn't think I had a great way to get back there, but it occurred to me that I could get above the paneling and maybe get a closer look. It worked!

Here's a video:



Also lots of pictures, which are tougher to contextualize, but hopefully the video helps.

It looks like there's a back wall, an air gap (in some places... in others the stone may go deeper) and then the stone wall. The front of the stone wall is 16" away from the front of the back wall.

A lot of the back is the brick of the chimney, but in some places, there's insulation or wood.

Again, hopefully the video contexualizes the images... I did my best to get my camera back there, but there's not a lot of room to work with. If I need pictures of a specific thing revisited I'll do my best.
 

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Not a pro, but if you say that the front of the stone wall is 16" from the front of the stud/insulation/brick wall, then you are fine to put back of stove against the wall.

But you are not going to do that anyways so just go as short as you can from the 90 degree elbow downward. Straight out the thimble to a 90, down to stove, so might be 10" from wall.

Also remember if you have the blower it adds more depth, even more so with the AC-16 over the AC-30
 
Two more pictures which may be of some interest. This is the inside of the pipe headed for the chimney, as well as the lining around the outside of it, which I believe goes all the way into the chimney itself, though it's hard to see it behind the wall (there seems to be a mortar covering or something as you can see in the video).
 

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