Installing new stove. What is a flammable.

[Qvist]

I am installing a new stove. It needs 20 inches clearance off the sides. I will only have 17 inches on one side due to the fact that on that on one side there is a steel sided dryer. Does this count as a flammable (being steel) I will also need ceiling protection. 7 ft ceiling minimum and I have 6 ft 4 to the ceiling joists. Will a layer of sheet metal with a 1 inch gap suffice?

 

[Highbeam]

Gasoline is flammable but diesel is not. The word you’re looking for is combustible. Painted Sheetrock is combustible. That dryer, good question. I don’t really want anything inside that minimum clearance.

 

[Qvist]

True, combustible is definitely the word I'm looking for.

 

[SpaceBus]

I had the same question about my cookstove install, trying to figure out if a GE glasstop range oven is considered a combustible or not.

 

[begreen]

When in doubt, contact the manufacturer. The dryer or stove may have a metal skin, but does it have a plastic control panel or bezel within the combustible clearance limit?

 

[Qvist]

I may just offset the stove three inches to one side of the pipe to allow clearance. Would require another fitting. I could also move the stove forward on the hearth 8 inches so that the dryer is at a corner to the stove. This would require a longer horizontal run of pipe 2 ft total or so. It only requires 8 inch clearance on the corners.

 

[moresnow]

Lint trap location may be worth considering!

 

[kborndale]

Couldnt the dryer being so close cause a reverse draft for the stove? Dryers suck a lot of air.

 

[begreen]

Couldnt the dryer being so close cause a reverse draft for the stove? Dryers suck a lot of air.

That's an interesting and good question. A dryer will exhaust about 240cfm. It could be possible in a basement location especially if draft is marginal and low when the fire dies down.

 

[Qvist]

I already have a stove in the location, I am just replacing it. I was concerned at first that it may cause issues but it has not. I also have an exhaust fan in the attic. It doesn't do anything either even when they are all on at the same time. The house isn't tight enough to pull a vacuum. I have problems with heat and air loss causing condensation in the attic, and air loss everywhere unfortunately. I am slowly sealing them up. I too thought about the lint trap. It is in the middle of the door of the dryer another foot or so away out of the combustible zone. I have had the dryer apart for repair and there isn't anything under the metal on that side but the drum. I'm still hesitant to consider it non combustible though. I may just move the dryer 4 inches to one side. There's some room.

 

[begreen]

I already have a stove in the location, I am just replacing it.

What is the current stove? What's replacing it?

 

[Qvist]

I currently have a Waterford Ashling the width is similar. It requires 16 inch clearances to the side. I would like to replace in with a JA Roby Polaris. I plan on putting metal on the ceiling for a heat shield. I could move the stove forward, or to the side, install a heat shield, or move the dryer.

 

[begreen]

The Polaris is a new one to me. Seems a little small for basement heating of the house as compared to the Trinity. Or will it just heat the basement?

Looks like you have a spare Lange too.

 

[Qvist]

The Ashling puts out max 42000 btu. and the Polaris is max 70000. 1.38 cuft to 1.88 cu ft difference. I can heat the house with the Ashling, but it struggles. I'm hoping the larger stove will be a good fit and reduce my need to split wood so small. The stove in the background is a Morso 2b. I've restored it new baffle new seals and all new stove black. It's a family heirloom without a purpose right now.

 

[kennyp2339]

Nice chimney love see the rock mortared so cleanly.
To be honest I think you would want a stove that has a bit larger firebox, something greater then 2.5 cu range, I've been fortunate to visit WV both in the summer and winter, and holy cow, that wind in the winter comes funneling through those hollers, feels like death in certain spots.
I do see some fiberglass insulation in between the rafter, dont know if you tried this or not, but get some low expansion spray foam and spray that between the concrete sill and the wood plate, that will help tighten things up a bit.

 

[Qvist]

Do you have any suggestions? I have been trying to research another (larger) stove with a decent cooktop. I like the eyes on the Polaris. The stove is primarily used when the heat pump cannot keep up and uses auxiliary (electric) heat but I have it going every night at a minimum in the winter so I end up heating the the house with it completely a lot. House is 925 square feet upstairs and 700 square feet in basement. (1600 square feet total). I live in the Eastern Panhandle of WV in the Shenandoah valley. Average high 41 degrees in Jan Ave low 22. Had not thought of spray foaming the sill plate. Thank You

 

[begreen]

The Ashling puts out max 42000 btu. and the Polaris is max 70000. 1.38 cuft to 1.88 cu ft difference. I can heat the house with the Ashling, but it struggles. I'm hoping the larger stove will be a good fit and reduce my need to split wood so small. The stove in the background is a Morso 2b. I've restored it new baffle new seals and all new stove black. It's a family heirloom without a purpose right now.

Right, for some reason I was thinking of the Trinity. The Morso sits waiting and contemplating, 2B or not 2B.

Keep us posted on the Polaris. I think you may be the first to report on it. Is it sold locally in your area?

 

[kennyp2339]

I just started looking up some stoves on obadiah's, I kinda like the bigger iron strike stoves, they seem to be phase II compliant to, the question I have about the cooking aspect, I see the other stove has a specific burner for boiling, most stoves, even my BK can heat up water, fry an egg on the top of the unit, also slow cook soaps and stuff using a dutch oven.
I would seriously consider taking a look at the larger stoves 2.5cu and above, the grandview 300 would do awesome for your setup.

 

[Qvist]

My experience with the cooktop only comes from a Quadrafire 4300 step top and the Waterford. The 4300 would hardly boil water on the hottest (lower) part of the top even when close to overfiring. I don't know why? The Waterford with the dedicated cook top is much better. It cooks just like a regular range. I thought having the open eyes in the top and having a stove designed with that in mind would help? The Waterford has fins on the bottom of the cooktop that I assume pick up heat from the escaping flu gases.