installing within 7 days

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beermann

Feeling the Heat
Jan 16, 2017
318
canada
The stainless liner has been shipped. I've cut out the damper and laid the new hearth pad down.

Anything I should take note of for the installation? My general notes are below. My questions are at the very end.

15 feet from top of insert to top of chimney. Straight line down and to the top of the insert.

Uninsulated ss flex pipe from home depot. Vortex.


Questions:
On top of the chimney. What should I be using to attach the cap plate to the top of the chimney. Construction grade adhesive, cement?

Just above the stove, do I really need a block off plate or can I just put some type of insulation at the opening.

What style of fire is best for a beginner. I have one summer seasoned mixed wood and some untreated lumber cut offs (2×6, 2x4 pieces) Should I attempt a top down with newspaper on top to pre heat the exhaust?


Very sorry about my other posts. My computer stopped working and I can't post pictures from my Samsung a5 to this website.
 
Well you should be running an insulated liner and yes a re add l block off plate will make a big difference.
Any good quality silicone will work for the top plate we use high temp but it isn't nessecary.
You can try top down I never liked it much but some swear by it.
 
Well you should be running an insulated liner and yes a re add l block off plate will make a big difference.
Any good quality silicone will work for the top plate we use high temp but it isn't nessecary.
You can try top down I never liked it much but some swear by it.

Unfortunately the price tag has kept me away from an insulated liner. .....existing chimney is liner with terra cotta clay liner and backs to an insulated garage area, and up through the attic.
 
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Unfortunately the price tag has kept me away from an insulated liner. .....existing chimney is liner with terra cotta clay liner and backs to an insulated garage area, and up through the attic.
Do you have the required 2" of clearance between the outside of that chimney structure and any combustible materials? If not you need insulation by code and for safety
 
Do you have the required 2" of clearance between the outside of that chimney structure and any combustible materials? If not you need insulation by code and for safety


I should have mentioned I had an inspector come over pre install to okay my plans. This way I can avoid the whole "oh $#!+....cant pass safety or wett certification and I spent all this money"

I'm coming on here to make sure I have all my bases covered and them giving him a call over the weekend. I know he's a professional and seems very knowledgeable but I've learned to not put all my eggs in one basket and learn as much as possible while I go.
 
Well you should be running an insulated liner and yes a re add l block off plate will make a big difference.
Any good quality silicone will work for the top plate we use high temp but it isn't nessecary.
You can try top down I never liked it much but some swear by it.

Just the classic alternating direction stack with kindling and starter underneath?
 
It is to code.
So you do have the 2" of clearance between the outside of the masonry chimney structure and any combustible materials? If you do that is great but extremely uncommon.
 
I should have mentioned I had an inspector come over pre install to okay my plans. This way I can avoid the whole "oh $#!+....cant pass safety or wett certification and I spent all this money"

I'm coming on here to make sure I have all my bases covered and them giving him a call over the weekend. I know he's a professional and seems very knowledgeable but I've learned to not put all my eggs in one basket and learn as much as possible while I go.
Just because your inspector oked it doesn't mean it actually meets code standard. I just noticed you are from Canada which your codes are slightly different but pretty close. You need similar clearances but I am not sure exactly what they are. And having those clearances may be more common there. But seriously this is a safety issue make sure it is right.
 
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Just because your inspector oked it doesn't mean it actually meets code standard. I just noticed you are from Canada which your codes are slightly different but pretty close. You need similar clearances but I am not sure exactly what they are. And having those clearances may be more common there. But seriously this is a safety issue make sure it is right.


I am doing what I can to exceed the code requirements. My hearth pad is 24" long. I am exceeding every other clearances requirements indoor. The chimney is in good shape it's got 10' for clay liner 12"x12" and with a straight shoot into the stove it for a 6" liner.

My main concern is the actual install. I'll be doing it myself and want to do it right. Watched a bunch if videos i think ill be okay. Just veey excited.
 
Will this be a modern EPA stove connected to the liner? If so, the flue system on the short side. How will the stove be connected? Up a few feet to a 90 and then into the chimney?
 
Will this be a modern EPA stove connected to the liner? If so, the flue system on the short side. How will the stove be connected? Up a few feet to a 90 and then into the chimney?

15 feet from top of insert to top of chimney. Straight line down and to the top of the insert.

Uninsulated ss flex pipe from home depot. Vortex.
 
15 feet from top of insert to top of chimney. Straight line down and to the top of the insert.

Uninsulated ss flex pipe from home depot. Vortex.
The chimney is in good shape it's got 10' for clay liner 12"x12" and with a straight shoot into the stove it for a 6" liner.

So will there be a 4' chimney extension added? or is there 4' from the clay liner to the insert top?
 
I really wish I could post pictures.

A regency i1100s insert. Connecting with stainless steel flexpipe through the damper and all the way up the chimney with the flex pipe.

The old terra cotta liner starts a few feet above the damper.

I've run into a legit problem. While setting everything in place to ensure no problems I noticed I am 6to8 inches forward from where the liner meets the top of my insert. And only 6" clearance to the top of my fireplace from the stove so I may not be able to angle the flex pipe properly to reach.

I need to go shopping for a 90° flue adapter that can connect to a ss liner. And I've gotta call my installer friend.

oes anyone have a product suggestion.
 
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So will there be a 4' chimney extension added? or is there 4' from the clay liner to the insert top?

Not sure I know exactly what your asking. From the top of the insert there is about 4' gap until the clay liner starts. Above the insert is the damper and above that is brickwork and then above that is the clay liner. I will be running a ss liner inside the chimney....hope this answers your question.
 
Not sure I know exactly what your asking. From the top of the insert there is about 4' gap until the clay liner starts. Above the insert is the damper and above that is brickwork and then above that is the clay liner. I will be running a ss liner inside the chimney....hope this answers your question.
Yes it does. There are 15, 30 and 45 elbows that connect to liners. Would one of these work better?
 
I really wish I could post pictures.

A regency i1100s insert. Connecting with stainless steel flexpipe through the damper and all the way up the chimney with the flex pipe.

The old terra cotta liner starts a few feet above the damper.

I've run into a legit problem. While setting everything in place to ensure no problems I noticed I am 6to8 inches forward from where the liner meets the top of my insert. And only 6" clearance to the top of my fireplace from the stove so I may not be able to angle the flex pipe properly to reach.

I need to go shopping for a 90° flue adapter that can connect to a ss liner. And I've gotta call my installer friend.

oes anyone have a product suggestion.

Busting out the grinder for more work
 
Yes it does. There are 15, 30 and 45 elbows that connect to liners. Would one of these work better?

Yes the angled flue connectors may work assuming they dont stick out more than 6-7".... I just need to look at code to make sure it's okay. As of right now I do have a dremel and some grinders so I can work around the damper to free up more room
 
Yes the angled flue connectors may work assuming they dont stick out more than 6-7".... I just need to look at code to make sure it's okay. As of right now I do have a dremel and some grinders so I can work around the damper to free up more room


They don't fit. Looks like I'm hacking away at some brick to make room.