Intrepid II model 1990

[bmwbj]

Is there anyone in this forum that can give me the exact start to finish operation
of my stove. I have had issues with "Cat. light off" since day 1. After I purchased a new Condor
cat. it worked fantastic for 10 burns, and now it give me problems with light off again.
1- I have well seasoned wood (maple) 10% moisture or less.

2- I have cleaned the cat, as instruced by the manufacturer.

3- My draft is perfect and the chimney is spotless.

4- 3" coal bed, and 700* on both the grittle and 18" up the stack.

As soon as I engage the Cat it seams to fill my back yard with heavy gray smoke, if I release the cat
the smoke intsantly dissapears.
I used to be able to hear the cat rumble slightly, and then I knew it was working fine, but I don't hear this
any more. I am very frustrated with this stove, and I'm ready to by a new "Non Cat." model if I can't
get some answers on this one. I have tried to contact someone from VC and from different stove stores,
but no one has given me any good answers with results yet.

The stove is only 4 years old and we love the size, but I'm tired of the smoke...I quit smoking 10 years ago
and love the smoke free enviornment...PLEASE HELP...

 

[Nic36]

Bump

Just doing some reading and I saw your post. I was just curious if you resolved the issue? I have pretty much made up my mind to buy an Intrepid II from the local dealer, once I get around to installing my chimney. Since I have a small house, it is the size I need, but some posts and reviews for the Intrepid disturb me.

 

[elmoleaf]

Couple of things I'd check:
1. Check secondary air assembly (temp probe with bimetallic coil and little metal shutter door that hangs from it). On my stove, the coil had released from the probe rod, which meant that the metal door for secondary combustion air always hung closed (instead of starting open and decreasing to closed as temps in the refractory assembly increased). When I fixed that problem, I then discovered that the metal wire that attaches the metal shutter to the coil kept disengaging from the coil, again leaving the secondary air always closed.

2. Check that the refractory assembly (the white box that holds the combustor) is intact, with the removable access piece in its proper place. If the assembly is damaged or the combustor not seated inside correctly, exhaust gases could be bypassing the combustor and not igniting.

3. Don't assume draft is perfect. Is the flue tall enough to pull good draft? Is this the proper 6" diameter flue all the way, with no excessive turns etc.? Is the cap clear of creosote/debris? Have you inspected visible seams for damage/air leaks/extra creosote buildup? It's normal to get a bit of smoke when you first close the damper. Check again in five minutes to see if you still have heavy smoke. Are you closing down the primary air when you engage the damper? If so, don't. Try leaving primary air lever all the way to the left. Assuming the stove is still airtight, your operating temperature shouldn't exceed 650-700F at that setting.

4. Don't assume that the cat is still clean. Check it for fly ash buildup. Make sure you're burning only wood and plain newspaper....avoid the colored inserts etc. Try the vinegar/water bath cleaning technique.

5. It probably shouldn't affect the cat operation, but check your stove for air leaks. Gasketing around the glass in the doors ok? Is the back right corner of the firebox still tight, with no visible daylight out through the primary air inlet (sometimes cement can drop out there, allowing air directly into the firebox, rather than following the air paths to the front glass).

Good luck....keep us posted. My guess, given the sudden change in operation, is that the secondary combustion air intake isn't functioning properly.

 

[bmwbj]

Sorry for not updating this post earlier, but after purchasing a internal stack thermometer
and placing it about 16" above the collar, I was able to watch my temps for proper cat
light-off. I waited until my internal pipe temps were slightly over 1000* and I can get cat ignition every time.
I know this seems very hot, but the external pipe temps are about 550* in the same location.
The stove has about a 3" coal bed, grittle temps of about 500* and 3 - 3" splits. After engagement of the cat
I slowly close the primary air to about 1/2 way, and the stove cruises there for about 3 hours.
I do note that this procedure works every time, and the stack internal temp stays at about 900 to 1000*
for the intire 3 hours until the burn cycle slows down. I'm not really sure if this is the proper procedures but
it works for me every time I do it this way. I have read that the cat burns at temps between 500 to 1600* with
1600* being the hotest it should be allowed to get, so stack temps of about 900 to 1000* seem very normal
with cat running.
I have tried to lever open the secondary air inlet flap to see if it helps with light-off but it didn't help at all.
The flap is wide open with a cold stove and closed with an operating temp on the grittle of 500*. I'm not 100% sure if all this operations are normal for this stove, but it's been working this way perfectly every time.
So far so good...and no more smoke...share your feeling on this procedure. :-S

 

[moondoggy]

hey buddy.
you know how i feel.
1000 degree stack temp, and throwing that cat on is way too high. you risk bad damage to the cat.

heres my run-

I light off my VC INtrepid when external stack temp 6" from collar reads 400-500. (according to book 500 is correct flue temp. (i figure by that external temp its fine to light off)

griddle reads 500+.

with in 5 minutes: my griddle is 550-600 external temp starts to fall to ~300 sometimes less and i run for 3-4 hrs on 3 splits.

after you engage the cat, you should not have temps @900 in the flue, after the cat combusts, the exhaust is cooler.
I have never had smoke after i engage cat.

and keep the dang door closed! your losing the negitve pressure and adding COLD air.

i hope this is cleared up soon by someone more knowledgable then me.

 

[seaken]

1- I have well seasoned wood (maple) 10% moisture or less.

Can't tell for sure, from here. But I suspect it is your fuel. Too dry.

Try mixing in some green wood, 50/50 to start, and experiment.

Cord wood should be about 20% moisture content for best operation. With wood that is too dry the volatile gases release too quickly. This could be affecting your catalytic ignition temps. Trial and error. I don't think anyone can give you a fool-proof step by step for your stove. General procedures, yes. The rest is up to you to do trial and error until you learn to deal with your particular circumstances.

Good luck.
Sean

 

[moondoggy]

bump to the top 'cause i'm curious and want to learn.

that "too dry" is an interesting thought.