Intrepid II secondary air link trouble

[Kamiobi]

The secondary air link that connects the secondary probe assembly and the secondary air flap keeps disconnecting. It started happening at the end of last season, so I got a new probe, link and flap. The original probe was almost totally gone, but the other parts were fine. I just started burning the last couple of nights and last night it came undone again. I have tried bending it, moving it different ways, but it just won't hold. Would wiring it or some other extra connector work? Looking for suggestions.

 

[Hanko]

wow, i didnt think you had wood in Japan. How cold does it get there anyway?

 

[Kamiobi]

Oh, it gets cold alright and it is not unusual to have temperatures at night and early morning below 0, but it usually gets up to 32 degrees at noon. I burn oak, elm, larch, pine and birch and occasionally maple and cherry. Our season probably aren't too different from what you get in Michigan, but the summers don't get as hot or muggy.

 

[VTSR5]

The secondary air link that connects the secondary probe assembly and the secondary air flap keeps disconnecting. It started happening at the end of last season, so I got a new probe, link and flap. The original probe was almost totally gone, but the other parts were fine. I just started burning the last couple of nights and last night it came undone again. I have tried bending it, moving it different ways, but it just won't hold. Would wiring it or some other extra connector work? Looking for suggestions.

I solved a similar problem on my WinterWarm Small insert, with secondary air control very similar to Intrepid. Here are my notes.

(1) Secondary air flap may be binding, and linkage may be popping out under stress. Check that door operates smoothly and freely by hand throughout operating range to eliminate this possibility. The screw which serves as the pivot for this door is supposed to have a small round wire washer serving as a bushing to provide a bearing surface for the door pivoting action, and as a depth stop to prevent the screw from binding the door against the stove surface. Check that this is in place and not malformed.

(2) Is the linkage a short piece of wire with an "L" shape on one end, and a "J" shape on the other? If so, there are four possible permutations of how this might be installed (J on top facing out, J on top facing in, J on bottom facing out, J on bottom facing in). Take a picture or describe how you are setting the linkage. Would one of the other permutations be more secure? I put the J on top. Possibly the L needs to have its angle closed a bit more like 7.

(3) The coil thermostat which operates the linkage may be misinstalled or improperly oriented. In other words, it may be trying to push when it should be pulling. Use a heat gun or even a lighter to activate the bimetallic coil and see which way it wants to move the air door. Obviously, as the coil heats, it should be closing the air supply.

 

[Hanko]

Oh, it gets cold alright and it is not unusual to have temperatures at night and early morning below 0, but it usually gets up to 32 degrees at noon. I burn oak, elm, larch, pine and birch and occasionally maple and cherry. Our season probably aren't too different from what you get in Michigan, but the summers don't get as hot or muggy.

Interesting, I've allways wanted to visit. I take it your in Northern Japan? What time is it there anyway. Im 9 am monday morning. I think your women are hot too

 

[Kamiobi]

I solved a similar problem on my WinterWarm Small insert, with secondary air control very similar to Intrepid. Here are my notes.

(1) Secondary air flap may be binding, and linkage may be popping out under stress. Check that door operates smoothly and freely by hand throughout operating range to eliminate this possibility. The screw which serves as the pivot for this door is supposed to have a small round wire washer serving as a bushing to provide a bearing surface for the door pivoting action, and as a depth stop to prevent the screw from binding the door against the stove surface. Check that this is in place and not malformed.

(2) Is the linkage a short piece of wire with an "L" shape on one end, and a "J" shape on the other? If so, there are four possible permutations of how this might be installed (J on top facing out, J on top facing in, J on bottom facing out, J on bottom facing in). Take a picture or describe how you are setting the linkage. Would one of the other permutations be more secure? I put the J on top. Possibly the L needs to have its angle closed a bit more like 7.

(3) The coil thermostat which operates the linkage may be misinstalled or improperly oriented. In other words, it may be trying to push when it should be pulling. Use a heat gun or even a lighter to activate the bimetallic coil and see which way it wants to move the air door. Obviously, as the coil heats, it should be closing the air supply.

VTZJ
Thanks for the ideas. Yes, the shape is like you describe and I have tried it with the J and L in different ways, I will check how the coil operates and make sure that the door is moving freely. It will have to wait until this weekend, but I will post back if that fixes it or not.

 

[elmoleaf]

You got some good advice above.
I had the same problem with it falling off.
I replaced mine with a stiff piece of heavy gauge wire. I bent the lower end into a closed teardrop and then slid the wire through the hole at the flapper & up towards the bimetallic coil.
I made a small hook at that end and made sure the overall length was the same as the original.

 

[Kamiobi]

Just a quick update. I checked the secondary air flap and it was moving freely. I also checked to make the sure the coil thermostat was working correctly. I decided to use some thin wire to connect the link to the coil and the door. I don't know if will work or not because we have had some nice warm weather, so no need to start the stove. I will post something if it doesn't work.