Is It Safe For Insulation To Be Against Wall Thimble?!?

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ckdeuce

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Feb 11, 2008
264
Western, PA
I installed our new Mansfield yesterday. Wooo!! I used a wall thimble kit, and did not see anywhere in the directions on what to do with the insulation in the wall. I just cut the hole, removed enough insulation (blown-in celuose) and put the thimble together. Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris
 

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Franks said:
what kind of thimble kit are you using? Is it an insulflue?

It is a SuperVent kit I bought at Lowes. Thimble is two pieces, one on the outside and one in the inside... They slide over each other inside the wall to keep everthing at lease 2" away from the class A pipe.
 

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Franks said:
what kind of thimble kit are you using? Is it an insulflue?

It is a SuperVent kit I bought at Lowes. Thimble is two pieces, one on the outside and one in the inside... They slide over each other inside the wall to keep everthing at least 2" away from the class A pipe.
 

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The wall pass through has the proper air space built into it. Insulation may come in contact with the exterior part of the pass through. It gives the class A the proper air space just by its construction.
 
cmonSTART said:
The wall pass through has the proper air space built into it. Insulation may come in contact with the exterior part of the pass through. It gives the class A the proper air space just by its construction.

Sounds good. I got everything together last night..... Fired up a "Break In" fire..... And then it hit me. Looked in the directions and there was no mention of it. I knew I would find an answer here. Thanks!
 
cmonSTART said:
The wall pass through has the proper air space built into it. Insulation may come in contact with the exterior part of the pass through. It gives the class A the proper air space just by its construction.

Exactly what the Moose said. And mooses or meese don't lie
 
ckdeuce said:
I installed our new Mansfield yesterday. Wooo!! I used a wall thimble kit, and did not see anywhere in the directions on what to do with the insulation in the wall. I just cut the hole, removed enough insulation (blown-in celuose) and put the thimble together. Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris

I thought it was 2 inches from ANY combustibles, is the insulation a combustible?

Zap
 
ckdeuce said:
Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris

I am 99% certain the thimble shown in the pictures above is a MASONRY thimble! The angle of the picture makes it tough to tell.

There is a different thimble used to pass thru a combustionable wall (shown in your pictures), which will maintain the 2" to combustionables required. It looks something more like this: (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5SP-9443)

Your current setup may be IMHO a real fire hazard. As well as ProjectX's.

Better double check the product instructions, or a certified pro, as there a multiple thimbles for various applications.
 
Zapny, the class A section that runs through the thimble has to be 2 inches away from combustibles. The outer portion of a wall pass through is an insulation shield which insures that the Class A inside achieves this clearance. The outer portion may touch insulation and often does when installed correctly.
 
ckdeuce, madison is making an interesting point. Is your thimble specifically designed to pass through a combustible wall as opposed to masonry? I can't tell from the pic.
 
ckdeuce said:
I installed our new Mansfield yesterday. Wooo!! I used a wall thimble kit, and did not see anywhere in the directions on what to do with the insulation in the wall. I just cut the hole, removed enough insulation (blown-in celuose) and put the thimble together. Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris

Hope this helps.

(broken link removed)

Zap
 
cmonSTART said:
ckdeuce, madison is making an interesting point. Is your thimble specifically designed to pass through a combustible wall as opposed to masonry? I can't tell from the pic.

Yeah, it's for wall and studs. It is set up for 16" on center and comes with the thimble, outside wall support etc. That part, I am sure of. I do appreciate the concern, but no worries there. The directions are clear that it is to be nailed into studs.
 
zapny said:
ckdeuce said:
I installed our new Mansfield yesterday. Wooo!! I used a wall thimble kit, and did not see anywhere in the directions on what to do with the insulation in the wall. I just cut the hole, removed enough insulation (blown-in celuose) and put the thimble together. Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris

Hope this helps.

(broken link removed)

Zap

Zap,
Yes it does. What I have is the BLACK WALL THIMBLE located in the top center of the second page. When I first saw it I was like "Yeah that's what I have" then I looked at the description and thought it said BLOCK WALL THIMBLE and I was like "You have got to be kidding me!!!" But all is well. Thanks!
 
The thimble in the Pic i posted keeps the Class A 2" away from all combustibles. The outer ring/shield can come in contact. BE SURE NOTHING COMBUSTIBLE IS CLOSER THAN 2" TO THE CLASS A CHIMNEY PIPE. This is the dura plus 3wall 6" so need a 14" hole/thimble.

6" flue + 3wall ins = 10" + 2" to combustibles = 14"



This what my thimble looked like finished
 

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ProjectX said:
The thimble in the Pic i posted keeps the Class A 2" away from all combustibles. The outer ring/shield can come in contact. BE SURE NOTHING COMBUSTIBLE IS CLOSER THAN 2" TO THE CLASS A CHIMNEY PIPE. This is the dura plus 3wall 6" so need a 14" hole/thimble.

6" flue + 3wall ins = 10" + 2" to combustibles = 14"



This what my thimble looked like finished

That second pic looks like Santa got stuck trying to come down your chimney.......
 
cmonSTART said:
Zapny, the class A section that runs through the thimble has to be 2 inches away from combustibles. The outer portion of a wall pass through is an insulation shield which insures that the Class A inside achieves this clearance. The outer portion may touch insulation and often does when installed correctly.

Thanks cmon.

Zap
 
ckdeuce said:
I installed our new Mansfield yesterday. Wooo!! I used a wall thimble kit, and did not see anywhere in the directions on what to do with the insulation in the wall. I just cut the hole, removed enough insulation (blown-in celuose) and put the thimble together. Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris

Did a Code Enforcement Officer okay the installation and what does your insurance company specs call for.

Zap
 
DVL lets me be 6" from the wall and 8" from the ceiling. See DVL photos.
 

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zapny said:
ckdeuce said:
I installed our new Mansfield yesterday. Wooo!! I used a wall thimble kit, and did not see anywhere in the directions on what to do with the insulation in the wall. I just cut the hole, removed enough insulation (blown-in celuose) and put the thimble together. Is it ok that the insulation will eventually settle and rest against the outside of the wall thimble? I imagine it is safe….. The thimble gives the needed 2” clearence for the class A pipe that goes through the wall… Is that enough?

Should I have boxed in the thimble so that the insulation will never come in contact with it?

Anyone else just let the insulation rest against the thimble?

Thanks
Chris

Did a Code Enforcement Officer okay the installation and what does your insurance company specs call for.

Zap

No.

The Ins Co (State Farm) had me fill out a sheet with clearances.... That was it.
 
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