Is this a reasonable quote? Lopi wood insert

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jimcrook

Member
Mar 30, 2020
27
Washington State
I'm looking into a wood-burning insert to heat my 900-sq-foot, one story home with central fireplace. I got a quote today for installation from my local fireplace dealer:

Lopi Republic 1250i wood insert: $1700
Chimney liner kit: $457
Labor: $800
Installation supplies: $50

Is this reasonable? I have no idea!

Thanks!
 
Sounds ok, but based on the costs im sure they are leaving some things off that you might wish they had done.

1. a insulated liner.
2. a block off plate.

Both will help the stove perform better and will allow you to get more heat from it. Also depending on the existing chimney the insulated liner may be required by code.
 
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Sounds ok, but based on the costs im sure they are leaving some things off that you might wish they had done.

1. a insulated liner.
2. a block off plate.

Both will help the stove perform better and will allow you to get more heat from it. Also depending on the existing chimney the insulated liner may be required by code.

Thanks Rickb. Does a block off plate prevent interior air from getting sucked up around the stove and through the sides of the (now completely open) flue? Or are you talking about something else?
 
If the fireplace is interior then the advantages are less than with an exterior fireplace where a block-off plate helps keep more heat around the insert and from being lost up to the masonry structure of the chimney. With an interior chimney the masonry will stay warmer and will radiate some heat to the interior of the house.

An insulated liner is usually needed because most chimneys don't have the required clearances to wood and combustibles. This is a safety issue first.
 
If the fireplace is interior then the advantages are less than with an exterior fireplace where a block-off plate helps keep more heat around the insert and from being lost up to the masonry structure of the chimney. With an interior chimney the masonry will stay warmer and will radiate some heat to the interior of the house.

An insulated liner is usually needed because most chimneys don't have the required clearances to wood and combustibles. This is a safety issue first.

Got it. That make sense (re: the block-off plate). I had assumed it was more to prevent air leakage up the chimney (around the stove) rather than heat loss.

I had assumed the quoted liner would be insulated, but it turns out it's not, which was a surprise to me. The installer did not explain why they don't seem to think it's necessary. I live in the maritime Pacific Northwest which is not extremely cold, but it's still cold enough here that you'd think an insulated liner would be necessary. I think I'll get another bid/opinion just to see what other installers think.
 
Many installers don't use them because they cost more. However in many applications they would not meed code.

That said many people have stoves running just fine on non insulated liners.
 
That is quite cheap for a liner kit. Cheaper than I can find one online anywhere uninsulated. Although you didnt spec the height.
 
Yeah with the liner priced that low I would be concerned with quality.
 
I have the exact same insert heating 1155sf in western Washington. No block off plate and no insulation on the 14' liner in my exterior chimney. It keeps my house plenty warm.
FWIW, I paid $2200 for it all installed in 2011.
 
I have the exact same insert heating 1155sf in western Washington. No block off plate and no insulation on the 14' liner in my exterior chimney. It keeps my house plenty warm.
FWIW, I paid $2200 for it all installed in 2011.
Yes but it would work better with a blockoff plate. And performance and safety are increased quite a bit with insulation
 
I have the exact same insert heating 1155sf in western Washington. No block off plate and no insulation on the 14' liner in my exterior chimney. It keeps my house plenty warm.
FWIW, I paid $2200 for it all installed in 2011.

Dang, good to know. With taxes and fees the entire quote came to almost $3400.
 
If you are like me and like to save money, here is an option for a similar insert that includes the liner and cap. Free delivery, just need an installer or do it yourself.

 
If you are like me and like to save money, here is an option for a similar insert that includes the liner and cap. Free delivery, just need an installer or do it yourself.

That's a nice deal for a simple system with a good insert. I'd ask them to substitute a shorter liner, but include an insulation blanket kit. Measure up the chimney from insert top to chimney top. For a single-story, usually a 20' kit is more than sufficient.
 
If you are like me and like to save money, here is an option for a similar insert that includes the liner and cap. Free delivery, just need an installer or do it yourself.


Hmm. Now you've got me thinking. I'm pretty handy and like DIY projects (have built a tiny house, for example). I think the hardest part would be removing the damper frame, but I suppose I could do it with an angle grinder...
 
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Hmm. Now you've got me thinking. I'm pretty handy and like DIY projects (have built a tiny house, for example). I think the hardest part would be removing the damper frame, but I suppose I could do it with an angle grinder...
Depending on the damper setup you might only need to notch out a section of the damper to clear the liner.
 
Hmm. Now you've got me thinking. I'm pretty handy and like DIY projects (have built a tiny house, for example). I think the hardest part would be removing the damper frame, but I suppose I could do it with an angle grinder...
That depends upon lots of variables but it is rarely the hardest part. What size is the existing clay liner?
 
That should be an easy install, even with the insulation if it's a straight flue.
 
11" x 11" on the outer dimensions, so about 9" x 9" inner(?)
Yeah as long as there are no bad offsets that should be fairly easy. As long as the liner let new up with the insert outlet well it should be fairly easy
 
My installer says that one will mostly fit, but might require removal of some of the masonry at the back of the fireplace. Bad idea or pretty standard? Also, is it possible to buy an insert that is "too big" for a home? My house is only 900 square feet. I'm guessing that that's not really a problem. Just don't burn quite as much wood, right?
 
A little masonry removal at the top back is necessary sometimes. Measure first and see. Yes, you can burn smaller fires. Today's fire in our house was just 4 splits.
 
I ended up ordering the Drolet Escape 1500-i along with the liner online. Delivered in ten days or so. And then I paid my local kick-ass, highly competent chimney sweeps to install it. They added insulation to the liner. In retrospect, I'm very glad I didn't do this myself, because it was a bear getting the old damper frame out of the way and then getting that stove into place. They got it done in four hours and I didn't have to break my back, swear, wonder if I was doing it right, ask a friend to help me, etc. Total cost: $2,555. I'm all for DIY, but not in this particular case, not for me.
 
Good deal. Now, get your firewood right away. If you get doug fir now and stack it off the ground and top-covered, it should be ready to burn by late October.
 
The Lopi Republic 1250i should be a nice fit for a 900 square foot house in your climate. At $1700 that is a great deal for a solidly-made stove that will last a long time, and it is locally made to boot, if that matters to you. I have the Answer (1250) - the stand-alone equivalent with a blower sitting inside a fireplace opening. It heats my 1250 square foot house in Central NY pretty well down to about 20 degrees F or so.

I agree that adding insulation and a block-off plate are good ideas - I wish I had known enough when I had mine installed to have asked for that to be done. I did both on a new renovation I am working on and am glad I did that the second time around.